Snapperpaul

This thing has several tons of metal in it and made of mainly composite material and has a very very small radar signature, its the angles the radar cant get a good reflection from and the non reflective properties of the paint. Also the new angular fighting ships (as seen at IFOS ) have ( they say) the radar signature of a trawler.

Try hanging this from your roll bar, its what little boats use to be seen by bigger boats, therfore the police will be able to see you with their radar guns. Second thoughts hold it between your knees to protect yourself from the steralising affects of radiation.

Is that 155bhp at the wheels or projected back from the roller losses as flywheel bhp? I suppose it depends on how moch you have spent and what bhp was promised. I have seen on a reputable site figures of 135 at the wheels = a good 160 at the flywheel. 20% losses. Sorry didn't read Longboarders post. I concur.

Theres a lot of part finished (started) kits out there which usually means that a lot of parts come with it. In the kit car world if its cheap(er) it runs sierra rear end as It still works well, then you need a rear wheel drive gearbox, type 9 or MT75 (all ford) and an engine, (pay your money and make your choice). For me it was a way to get a fast car (again) without commiting large sums up front, what i have found is that a Robin Hood, which ever one you get, is not a Lego set. You will have to do it your way but that said, this club has done it big time so someone someware has put a solution on the site. Just use the search icon (top right) if you cant find what you want post a question. It's rear wheel drive with an inline engine the rest is up to you.

Just had to share this with you, it has a tentative mechanical link, and it made me laugh. Eskimo takes a driving holiday in Wales and after a few days of hard driving broke down in a small welsh village, the helpfull local garage man informed the eskimo that "You've blown a seal" the eskimo replied angrily " so what you bu**er sheep"

The only way we have to show our concerns and our anger at the policies of Government, whoever is in power, is our collective voice and peacefull civil disobedience. It is our right. Whilst the fuel lobby may be misguided in thinking that they will lower the prices at the pumps, the small haulage firms however are going out of business hand over fist. Everthing we buy is eventually delivered by road therfore higher fuel, we pay more.... Rant ended for today.

If they just fit a 2b, no good for me then. Dam it.

I recon with a bit of overtime i could knock out a couple a year. They would have to allow swearing and throwing hammers around and i would need health cover as well as being close to a hospital. Would my grade 4 cse metalwork clinch it?

Series 3 is 46 cm max driverside a little less for the passenger. I hav'nt come across a seat built for the domestic market that fits yet. Only the specials for the kit market seem to have a chance in the Series 3. I might go to Rayleigh with my tape measure and have a look. Let you know if i do.

You should play for the Australian cricket team, they need people that can catch fast moving objects. Well done, glad your O.K and get that finger looked at before it sets like a donkeys back leg.

There are no regs for the seats Just how you mount them and the Seat belts. If the fixed pieces of foam covered plywood (as on the Locost and the new cheap Tiger) can get by the SVA then these will.

My thought on building a kit car was that i would be able to build it cheaper than buying one finished, oh how wrong i was. I have a complete to the last nut and bolt record of the spend so far, and whilst it does include garage rental and buying of tools i am upto £2600 with a consevative £2000 to go, and thats on a series 3. Very good cars come up on this site from £3000 to £4500 almost regardless of age, so there is probably a big and quick depreciation but then the prices hold well regardless of age aslong as they are tidy.

Sure it's not Roger???

I had a set of Yoko 520's on a 309 GTI and found that while they stuck like S41T to a blanket when they let go it was very quick, i moved to the Michliens and found them much more progressive. Any one else have any experience with the Yoko's unsticking?

Standard block and rods good for 6700 rpm continuouse, 205 block after 1988 or 2000is with later rods good for 6900. 7200 with lightened little ends and forged pistons. Cosworth rods and V6 pistons up to 8000. From what i have researched so far, any block and crank is OK, use the 205 if you want to bore out for the 93mm pistons. The head is all important seems that big inlets standard exhaust valves are fine the quality of the porting does most of the work until very high revs. Fit a cam to suit your rev limit and drivability. I've heard although i'm not sure, that the carb from the 3.0l V6 is good for power if 45's are too much.

I have loads of plastic electric conduit 22mm diameter, split it one side, cut to fit straight bits of dash edge and mitered then used a hot air paint stripper gun to gently bend to the contours. I will bond it to the stainless with polyurethane adhesive, cover the lot with some thin neoprean, or somthing similar, then cover with leathercloth.

Iv' asked Rizla for the pistons from the 4x4 that he has just bought, sounds like it is runnig on 5 so may have a burned piston. I need 4 good ones so could be one spare>

Looks very good. What sort of grill material is it, I have made one up from perforated sheet, lots of 10mm holes, and am concerned that i may have cooling problems? Post the address of the guy that did the stripes please.

As long as i can get rid of the block afterwards i think i can find a bit of space at home to split it up. I only need the pistons so would be happy to pass on the other bits to BigLee. If got a crane and a pallet which goes in the back of the Galaxy and a mate with a flatbed.

Calipers and discs if they are a straight fit on my stub axles is all i wanted, as i did'nt intend to swap the uprights, however, i'm still building and have a good year to go so if anyone needs bits more than i do i'll step aside to get someone back on the road or to the SVA.

Ah, thought you might say that. I havn't realy got anyware to store the lump. Thought i may be able to strip the lump and stick it back in the boot for the scrappy to take it away. A little presumtious on my part. Still after the other bits though. Planning to try and get to Brands Saturday 17th so i'll say hello and have a chat.

4 good pistons as well please Andy, i feel a 2.1 coming on

It's only a rumour but i new a man who used to have his car clocked forwards every month, milage claims perhaps? Did he clock it back before he sold it?

Found this while looking for wheels on ebay and thought it may be a good one for the search function. Fitment Guide: • The fitments listed here are taken from different alloy wheel manufacturers guides. They should all be correct but always check the wheel fits correctly on the vehicle hub before fitting tyres. • We show a range of offsets for most vehicles because the actual offset used for each car will be slightly different depending on the size (diameter and width) of the wheel and the offset available for the chosen wheel. Higher offsets are generally used for larger diameter wheels, lower offsets for smaller diameter and/or wider wheels. The tyre to be used will also be a major factor in choosing the correct wheel fitment. • On some vehicles with large brake callipers attention must be paid to ensure the spokes do not foul on the brakes. • Please check list below for fitment. AUDI Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 80, 90,100 4 x 108 35...42 57.0 100 (90>) 5 x 112 35...42 57.0 A3 5 x 100 30...40 57.0 A4, A6, A8, V8, S2, S4, S6 5 x 112 35 57.0 TT 5 x 100 28...30 57.0 CITROEN Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore AX, Saxo 3 x 108 9...15 58.0 AX, Saxo 3 x 108 12...15 65.0 BX, ZX, Xantia, Xsara, Saxo 4 x 108 15...22 65.0 XM 5 x 108 35 65.0 Evasion 5 x 98 28...30 58.0 FORD Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore Fiesta, Ka, Puma, Escort, Orion, Focus, Sierra, Mondeo, Granada 4 x 108 35...38 63.3 new Mondeo (2001>) 5 x 108 35...42 63.3 Scorpio 5 x 112 35...38 63.3 Probe >91 5 x 114.3 35...38 59.5 Probe 92> 5 x 114.3 35...38 67.0 Galaxy 5 x 112 42...45 57.0 Maverick 6 x 139.7 0...-3 100.0 Transit Connect 5 x 114.3 45..52 Transit 5 x 160 45..52 MAZDA Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 121 >95, 323, Demio, MX3, MX5 4 x 100 35...42 54.0 121 96> 4 x 108 30...35 63.3 626 >91, RX7 5 x 114.3 35...42 59.5 323 2l V6 94>, 626 92>, 929, Xedos 6, Xedos 9 5 x 114.3 35...42 67.0 PEUGEOT Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 106 (3-stud) 3 x 108 9...12 58.0 106 (4-stud) 4 x 108 12...15 65.0 205, 306, 309, 405, 406 4 x 108 15...22 65.0 206, 307 4 x 108 25 65.0 605XM 5 x 108 35 65.0 806 5 x 98 28...30 58.0 PORSCHE Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 924 (4-stud) 4 x 108 15 57.0 911, 924, 930, 944 >86 5 x 130 25 71.5 911 Carrera 2/4, 928, 944 87>, 964, 968, 993 5 x 130 45 71.5 SAAB Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 900 88>92, 9000 4 x 108 30 65.0 9-3, 9-5, 900 92> 5 x 110 35...40 65.0 TVR Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore Cerbera 4 x 108 35...38 63.3 VOLVO Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 340, 360, 440, 460, 480 4 x 100 32...38 52.0 850 >93 4 x 108 35...38 65.0 T4, S40, V40 4 x 114.3 35...38 67.0 240, 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 >94 5 x 108 18...22 65.0 850 93>, 960 94>, C70, S70, V70, S90, V90, T5, T5-R 5 x 108 35...40 65.0