Snapperpaul

If got photos of a sliding pillar to wishbone conversion which I can transfer by Dropbox, we transfer or burn to disc

Vizard says 7mm less venturie than carb number. yes the 40’s can take a wider venturi but you get less of the venturi effect

If you were running twin 40’s and FR32 you would be very near the max airflow the engine required. 40’s can only accommodate a 33mm venturie and are only used on a relatively standard engine. twin 45,s allow venturie up to 38mm, you probably need 35 to 36mm venturies for an FR32 cam. you will need to get whatever carbs you put on the car rolling road tuned to make it work

My cousin was a top panel beater and painter, he said to me I would need to key the stainless with a medium/fine emery or scotchbright and use an etch primer

There back, does this mean my photobox account is live once more?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152569273@N05/shares/8a0Ut3 if this works you should see 3 photos of pedal box reinforcement for the S3a trust me this does not move at all

You can run some flat bar between the welded in flat bar and bolt the rear seat bolts to that. it will stiffen the floor and stop the seat flexing

The top “filler thread” is actually a missing breather tube and whilst I suppose you could drains fluid out of the when not bolted to the car and fill it, the proper filler hole is also a level plug, when oils drips out when filling its full. you can get an adaptor to fill the top hole with a barbed fitting for a tube from CBS then runna length of rubber pipe for a breather

This was a pretty amazing collection of film made all the more moving by the commentary. The colouring of the video made more of an impact than I expected. Great piece of work

One of the issues that you should be aware of is the mounting height above the seat base. This is sometimes misread from the IVA guidance as 450mm. It is a bit more than this because of a block placed on the seat which moves the top mounting point requirement dependant on the seat base angle. The block is 53mm heigh and 136mm long. In reality it moves the required seat mounting points to above 503mm height but you should check the IVA manual. Or look for my response to Macramsays post Iva Seatbelt Upper Anchorage The problem with shoulder straps through a seat at the IVA station I use (Norwich) was to just loop the belts round the seat not through the seat for the test. In reality you should dummy mount the seat, do the calculations about seatbelt height and check where the mounts should be to not rub the straps on the seat.

You would only get your calculation if there was no overlap and all cams have some overlap. There are also some laws of physics that come into play. The Americans use dynamic compression ratio as a target that guides the required static compression ratio that you would build an engine to and its so much more than just cam overlap. It takes into account, stroke, rod length and angle, cam lobe vented and a hole lot more. Yes I did read articles on it and no I dont fully understand it but it makes a bit of sense how you can run higher static compression ratios with high lift higher overlap cams and why you shouldnt use higher compression ratios with high lift low overlap cams

Glad it worked for you

These are the expected compression figures CR Fast STD Road Rally Race 8:1 146 139 132 124 9:1 171 162 153 145 10:1 196 186 176 166 11:1 221 210 199 188 First column compression ratio Second standard cam Etc A restrictive carb such as a single twin choke will show lower figures than a choke per port

Cam belt drive cog pulls off but its tight and access is not good due to belt guide. There is a woodruff key in the crank nose to locate. See topic well that didnt work to see my recommendations for removal

Yes they are bar stewards to get off Because of the belt guid you have little chance of getting a puller on so I applaud you home built one. Perhaps clouting it whilst turning the puller bolt wil get it to move. I ended up with a large screwdriver that I got behind the gear the tap and turn the crankshaft then tap again for hours until I had room for a larger bar. Once its part way off the woodruf key itll slide off.

Check head and block are flat Gaskets often go between 3 & 4 as that is the narrow point. Depending on head bolt type you may need new bolts

I used straight bars with no problems but the brackets that attach to the monocoque sides are far to small. You need them wider and a thick plate under the floor with similar inside to spread the forces or the monocoque will buckle, I also ran 25mm x 50mm box under the car joining both tiebar mounts like a strut brace.

Front is stiff due to antiroll bar, change to tie bars and reduce springs to 130lb Rears can stay at 180lb Original shocks were motor bike shocks with coil over collars put on them, changing to adjustable coil overs such as Gaz improved mine no end

The injection head was mostly unleaded but check head for stamped letter in side of head near rear exhaust port The inlets are slightly higher giving a better port angle but the main difference is that the port near the valve has a smooth shortside turn into the valve seat whereas the non-injection Head has a very sharp edge

You should have a firewall between engine bay and cabin, without the cover your open to fumes and unwanted heat, and a covers looks better

Its all gone quiet... I sent a Dropbox link of a lot of stuff I had spent quite a bit of time putting together Did you download it? Was it any use to you?

I used signmakers plastic sheet that you can worm with a hot air gun and fold once cool it holds its shape and has enough spring to clip over the sides. I then glued yoga mat over it and finished off with grey vinyl looks great

Yes should have a stainless steel cover. Very unlikely you will find a spare but it is a simple folded sheet with tabs for mounting Any fabricator should be able to do a simple cover out of steel or aluminium tray will do the job

Ahh yes the Exmo conversion Mat the Rat had Gingerfix do a bespoke one.

Inboard shocks on a square frame chassis doesnt look like any Robin Hood I know What car is it? Essex Kit Car Club is near you, get in touch on Facebook