alanrichey

Standard problem with the Superspec (see my article in the magazine). Went through the new battery/advance/earth strap solutions with no luck. No help to you though as I reckon it is a design fault where the starter itself is buried deep down with no airflow, so gets cooked and struggles to crank.

Saving it for the Stilton Cheese Run

Good, glad to hear it's sorted. And not surprised to hear about the pipe, I think they were homemade from a couple of rubber steering gaiters. I have long since replaced mine with a proper fuel-resistant pipe. As for the immobiliser I think you are talking about an after-market one. The Superspec ECUs were internally modified to disable the built in immobiliser before they were issued with the kit, Unfortunately the firm involved, like RH Engineering, are long gone, so I am not sure what we SS owners do if we need a replacement,

Interesting, I thought all these were reprogrammed by RH Engineering before they were issued, How do you deactivate yours ?

Don't quote me. but I have a dim memory of asking Richard Stewart that question and he said a Ford Transit ? Would that make sense ? Funnily enough I mounted a replacement wing on some rubber blocks and the MOT chap complained it wobbled, so I has to revert back to mounting them direct to the supports

Just a heads up that this Show is on the weekend of 5/6 Sep (http://www.peterborough.gov.uk/leisure_and_culture/events_and_festivals/classic_and_vintage_vehicles.aspx). You have to pre-register at https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/VehicleRegistration Camping is available and also the option of having a Club Stand. Not sure if there will be enough interest to justify a stand though. And it is the weekend just before the end-of-season bash so I guess we will be busy getting ready for that.

I think we also have to assume that the F1 radiator will be enclosed in some sort of tunnel so that 100% of the air is forced to go through the radiator. With the best will in the world, unless a very tight-fitting cowl is fitted, in our case some of the air will flow around the edges and the over the top, and I would think that tilting it backwards (he talks about tilting it forwards), would make it more likely that air would tend to flow up and over the rad and not go through it (path of least resistance?)

And here was me thinking the 70deg tilt of the Superspec radiator was a poor design choice, turns out to be 'bleeding-edge' technology

Perfect thanks

Have you got a link to this store ? I can't find it.

Are we arranging a pre-run RV at Uppingham before the run so we can park up together? Last year we were all over the place.

+1

I still haven't figured out my Superspec electrics but I think it might have 2 different relays. Certainly when my indicators failed because the relay got soaking wet, my hazards still worked perfectly. Does this mean the hazards must have a separate relay ? Or is there another explanation ? If so the problem might be a failed hazard relay. (And don't bother asking me where the relay is, I have no idea

This map has been uploaded before and I found it invaluable on my first visit. I guess it doesn't do any harm to post it again Just be aware that the road past the Warwick Centre to the campsite (marked in Blue to 'B') is closed during Show hours and you have to go around the top of the map to get to the camp site. Last year the actual Club Stand was in the bottom left of our 'pitch' and the entrance was top left. Not sure if it will be the same this year ?

I need to apologise for that. Realised too late that I am using a bulb as my auxiliary warning light (can't see the one in the dash) which does need a diode and that an LED is already a diode (the clue is in the name ) so adding one is pointless. Bring it to Stoneleigh and I'll buy it off you as a spare.

OK, that makes sense. I think

OK, so in that case you need a resistor in series with the LED to make it look like a bulb and then a resistor in parallel in case the LED fails

This is interesting stuff, but can I just clarify this for my own education ? As I understood it the resistor is only there in case the warning bulb fails ? Normally the circuit through the bulb is enough to excite the alternator so the resistor only come into play if the bulb goes open-circuit ?

Just had a nice surprise. Check out the Facebook page for Doddington Hall at https://www.facebook...poweratthehall. I'm second one down the line. I've added a note about the club to see if we can get any more members I think we call that a success .

Yes, I just disconnected the female spade alternator feed wire from the warning light and plugged that into the diode and plugged the female spade terminal on the diode directly onto the warning light.

Same thing happened to me, see http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/brake-lights.html I assume you have checked all the fuses ? As you know the Superspec wiring diagram is not overly helpful, but I doubt the brake lights and fuel pump are related. Again, what I have managed to figure out as regards the wiring is at: http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/the-electrics-project-relays_22.html http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/the-electrics-project-fuses.html http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/the-electrics-project-services.html If you have any more information you can offer it will be gratefully received. BTW, I regularly drive by Corby in my Superspec on my way to see the grandchildren, so if you want me to drop by just PM me. Always love discussing Superspecs

Not a resistor, a diode. I use these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durite-In-Line-Diode-with-6-3mm-Blade-Spade-Terminals-10amp-12-24v-DC-/400536132610?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d41d05c02

Might be teaching grandmother to suck eggs but as I understand it, the logic works like this: One side of the Warning light is 12V+ ignition switched, the other side is connected to the alternator output. So when the ignition is switched on the warning light goes on as the alternator output is nominally 0V. Once the engine starts that small current flow is used to excite the alternator (unless you have a self-exciting one) so that it starts to output a voltage. If the alternator produces 12V+ it would then balance the 2 inputs to the light so it would extinguish. Unfortunately, as you have proven, your alternator will actually produce 14V+ so that results in a -2V+ differential voltage across the light, which will cause it to stay illuminated, either dimly or fully on depending on the type of light. So as previously stated you need to put a diode into the circuit between the alternator and the warning light so it will only illuminate if there is a +ve voltage differential.

Well, seven of us went to the "Horsepower at the Hall" at Doddington for the morning. For me it was about an hour each way on the country lanes. Superb run although the crosswind was a bit punchy and I had a couple of 'moments'.