alanrichey

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I had the same problem, but based on advice in the forum I replaced the clutch cable and redesigned the connection and it is now fine and very easy to operate. See http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/the-clutch-cable.html I am also going to try fixing a weak spring between the clutch arm and bell housing to keep it under tension as I understand that was a standard fit on the Escort when it used that gearbox. What fun

Thanks, very useful to know. Although on the wiring diagram I found (http://the-superspec...t-services.html) the Immobiliiser is Pin 13 (Pin 17 is the 'knock' sensor) ? Good scheme, one for the future, when I look at the thrust bearing clatter

OK, seems good, so bought that. Any other suggestions for 'future-proofing' for a Superspec ? I have a spare fan belt and a spare clutch cable. My only immediate thought was brake pads, I assume they just standard Sierra parts ?

As my Superspec (Rover 'T' 2000cc DOHC, circa 1995-1998) gets on in years I am aware that getting spare parts will become more and more difficult, so I am thinking I should pre-purchase anything 'unique' that might be needed in the future. This ECU (http://www.ebay.co.u...-/191014702359?) seems to be the right part (looks identical to my preset one) at a good price. A logical purchase ? Anyone know if it would be 'plug & play' or would it need to be programmed ?

I suspect he finished up buying it himself. Watch for it coming back on

But first 17 bids were a much more logical £300-£700.

And from all here (I have 16 here for lunch at the last count , although only 8 of them (all male) appear interested in discussing the car )

I can't really call this a 'Build' diary, as I bought the car already built. But I have started a blog at http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.co.uk/ to describe my progress. Maybe we can describe it as a 'Maintenance and Improvement' diary All comments welcome, particuarly if I am doing sometihng wrong. Al

Interesting, think I will stick with Gun Gum As predicted all the bolts on the brackets sheared. And this is what was exposed when I removed the cover tube: There is no trace of any sealant although I know the previous owner used a lot, so I guess it has just all dried out and disappeared ? And it seems quite secure. So I am not certain why the previous owner put the extra tube and clamps on except maybe for added strength and prevent any flexing ? My in initial thought is to now cover the joins with GunGum and bandage to seal it properly. I don't really care what it looks like as it is all hidden by the heat shield, but should I also add another tube and clamps over the top to be absolutely sure ?

Yes, checked it now and it is definately blowing from the connecting tube, not the lamda sensor. Difficult to tell if it at a join or a hole has developed as the position is hidden. I agree the best solution is to take off the clamps and tube and rebuild it. Not surpisingly the bolts are rusted solid, first 2 applications of WD40 have been applied

Sorry, should have attached a picture. From the 'soot' on the bodywork it looks like it is blowing either from the join or there is a split in the connecting tube, although it may also be from the lamda sensor mounting. Haven't had a chance to isolate it yet as the first time I put my hand near it to feel I sliced my finger open on a sharp edge So still recovering from that.

After taking off my heat shield it looks like mine is blowing at the join. When I was a 'young lad' the solution was an empty can of baked beans and loads of 'Gun Gum' Has there been any change in the intervening years ? I have some 'Black Bob' following a recent recommendation, would that be suitable ? Al

I do have a copy of the original wiring diagram and you say, it tells us there are 3 relays (ECU/Lamda/Fuel Pump). And they are not the 3 relays in the picture, those turn out to be for the Demisters, the Fog Lights and the Horn. I have tried pulling everything and it hasn't really helped. I still have the following outstanding problems: 1. I cannot find the 3 relays (ECU/Lamda/Fuel) mentioned on the Wiring diagram. The build Video seems to indicate they are mounted grouped together in the engine bay on the firewall but I cannot see anything remotely like relays there. 2. I cannot find what the 2 relays on the left (marked 'L' & 'R') are for. They are definately not the headlights, but removing either of them stops the Fuel Pump.. Maybe they are 2 of the 3 missing relays ? 3. I cannot find the headlamp replays anywhere although they must exist surely ? It may be they are deep inside the scuttle and inaccesible without removing the dashboard ? 4. I cannot find a Cooling fan relay although surely there should be one ? 5. I have figured out the Main 4 fuses are:(1) Horn/Headlights (2) Instrument Panel (3) Demisters (4) Fog Lights. And one of the 6 in-line fuses is for the Reversing Lights, but the others are a complete mystery. All 5 of them stop the Fuel Pump (but that could be an ECU fuse as well) but all the accessories continue to work. 6. I cannot find any fuse for the indicators/hazards or the wipers/washers ? So working through slowly, but it is very frustrating.

Looking to eventually replace the Escort Instrument cluster on my Superspec with stand alone gauges. On the cluster, the Tacho, Fuel and Temperature gauges each have 3 connections marked 'E', 'S' & 'B+'. The 'B+' & 'E' are common to all 3 instruments I am assuming that: E = Earth B+ = 12V S = Sender Correct ?? I picked up a couple of gauges at the Newark Autojumble and they have different marking. (Why am I not surprised ) The Fuel gauge has 3 connections marked 'Earth', 'B' & 'T'. The Temperature gauge has only 2 connections marked 'B' (or '8') and 'I' (or '1' or 'T'), although I assume the case will act as Earth ? Is 'B' the same as 'B+' ?, i.e. Power. And are 'S' & 'T' the same ? And like many of us my present gauge displays backwards. Don't really care if the new one works correctly or backwards, but is there any danger (fuse overload) in just substituting the new one for the present one. ? Al

Still struggling with this. I naively thought that if I pulled each fuse/relay in turn and then tested all the systems to see what didn't work then I would be able to figure it out. Fat chance Here is the electrical panel in the passenger foot well: You can see the Main bank of 3 relays, 2 seperate replays on the left marked 'L' & 'R', the 'Kill' switch, a bank of 6 in-line fuses and just off the right of the picture a bank of 4 more fuses. Unfortunatly what I found makes very little sense to me. For example: 1. I pulled the 2 relays marked 'L' & 'R' and found that everytihng I could think of still worked (All of the lights, the Demister (both sides), the Indicators/Hazards, the Horn, the Cooling Fan, the Wipers/Washers, and the Fuel Pump). I didn't try starting the engine so maybe the 'L' stands for Lamda Sensor ? I suppose the other might be the ECU ? Can anyone think of what I may have missed ? 2. The other 3 relays appear to be Demist, Horn and Fuel Pump 3. The 'official' 4-way fuse box gave me: 1. Horn/Headlights 2. Instrument Panel 3. ?????? (Again everything appeared to work) 4. Fog Lights 3. The 6 inline fuses were also very confusing: 1. The windscreen wipers (But the Fuel Pump didn't work either) 2. The Demisters 3. Fuel Pump 4. Fuel Pump 5. ???? Everything appeared to work. 6. Reversing Lights and Demisters So 3 of them appear to relate to the Fuel Pump ? Is there something common here ? So I could not find any fuse for the indicators/hazards and no sign of a relay for the Headlights.: There must be another set of fuses/relays somewhere but I cannot find them. Although I admit I haven't checked around the steering colum. Not expecting miracles here but can anyone see any sort of logic with these findings ? Al

Absolutely And Sealy Auto Probe ordered, thanks for the steer.

Thanks Dan. But I can confirm that ALL the lights work with ignition off, as does the radiator cooling fan and the horn. As I understood it the previous owner of my Superspec simply followed the wiring loom instructions, just plugging in the connectors, unfortunately not labelling anything, and did not make any changes to the original design. There are 6 relays on the panel, all unlabelled except 2 of them that are labelled 'L' & 'R' (Indicators maybe?). I guess I will have to use trial and error to figure out which is which and how they are wired up.

Can anyone think of a logical reason for this ?. To my simple mind the fuses for the headlight and the horn should be on the high-power side of the individual relays (Pins 87/30) and completely seperate. Having said that, they both operate with the ignition off, so maybe they have a common 12V feed to the switching sides of the relay (Pins 85/86) that has another fuse in circuit ? If so what about all the other lights that still work with the ignition off and the fuse blown ? Or do we have 2 seperate 12V non-igntion switched supplies, one to provide power to the relays and one other one ?

As far as I know. I bought the car already built but the previous owner boughtt it as a rolling chassis direct from GBS so no reason to believe it is anything else.

Wow !! Spolit for choice Do I assume the ones I need are Sierra & Sapphire (non Cosworth) Rear Wishbone Bush Inner 2 PB011 £9.71 £10.69 Sierra & Sapphire (non Cosworth) Rear Wishbone Bush,Outer 2 PB012 £10.06 £11.07 ??

Thinking of replacing the rear suspension bushes on my Superspec as well. Where did you get the bushes ? E-Bay seems to concentrate on Cosworth ones that cost a fortune.

Agree entirely. Such a beautiful day today, took mine for a run around Rutland Water, parked at the Nature Reserve for a wander around with a packed lunch. Sheepskin jacket, gloves and a wooly hat essential kit though. It doesn't get any better than this,

Is this worth a visit ? I see it is run by a Classic Bike team. But I assume it covers cars as well ?

That sounds incredibly sensible, glad you caught me before I disconnected it I found the one that Nigel suggested on E-Bay for £9 so I'll give that a try. If it doesn't work then I like the idea of simply adding a new housing inline.