zhap135

Hi Kyle, I've had loads of help from folk on this site, it's the most helpful bunch you could wish to meet, and much more friendly than other forums that I have seen. I've found that there isn't any such thing as a daft question, and the thing that is stumping you has stumped others in the past who will be happy to share what they found worked. When you find an issue, a quick post will get a load of response and help you to think things through in different ways - have just had this experience over my dash lighting. In more general terms I've found that separating things into small jobs so that you can get simple wins (however small) gets the old dopamine going, and helps stop you getting swamped by the big picture. IF you are having an issue and getting no where, you can switch to a job that you know you can solve - you get a win, feel good - and then go back. You'll find that sometimes you have been mulling over subconsciously, and the solution then jumps out at you. Or more frequently in my case an old hand has responded to a post and told me what to do! Like I said, I've had so much help from people I really feel the need to pay it forward. Can't guarantee I'll be any help at all, but am always up to chew the fat!

Thant's fantastic, thank for that Alan, and for the tip on the correct wiring!

Thanks, that sounds like that explanation makes sense - will try that. (couple of hours later...) Having tried, the light goes on on ignition, off whilst turning over, and then remains on when the engine has started. That would suggest that there is an issue with the alt, and as it happens when placing a vm over the battery terminals when running there is no change in the reading to when not running. So looks like I need to whip teh alt out and bench test and maybe replace

Brilliant, love a bit of history me! So my light not being on at all (with a sound connection and a tested light) when tried with either polarity might suggest a fundamental issue with teh Alt.

Thanks Ian - forgive me , I'm not an electrician or a mechanic by trade but am learning things as I go along So the alternator does not charge necessarily at low revs or initially. when not charging the warning light is on. When the engine speeds enough for the alt and starts charging the warning light extinguishes? When this light is on it indicates that the polarity over the alternator is insufficient to charge the battery?

Thanks PG, will have a look at that - any reason under the bonnet specifically rather than behind the dash?

So another clarification, I'm not using a standard sierra FB or console. I just found in one of the ford forums a post that the alternator needs the console wired in to charge the battery as that is required to excite the field coils ( also touched on by Bob T above). This got me thinking, could this be connected to my issue, as I have pretty much replaced most of the wiring with new? [edit] Looking at the old console, the lighting circs seem to be just that , with no further componentry I guess tomorrow I'll test the alternator and check that it is working and go from there

Aaaaah, that makes sense, I see what you mean. I shall give that a go [edit] Just to be clear, the Alt telltale lien from the aternator is not wired in that way , but is pos?

Brilliant, thanks that makes sense. So it's not essential to protect the dials or anything, it just simply improves stability and accuracy.

Thanks for that , I've got them all to a common earth and have tested each bulb individually, so don't think it's the polarity, but will have a look, thanks!

LOL, any bodge that works is a good bodge!. Thanks, will give this a try.

Am wiring up dash lights. Have some led telltales that work (from CBS) indicators, beam and hazards work fine So far so simple, the alt warning light, ( or the oil light and the brake fluid light) are not coming on when the ignition switch is on. Alt Warning. Have traced the wire back and there is a circuit. My question I suppose is whether a straight forward circuit for this light is adequate, or is there something I'm missing

I acquired a smiths fuel gauge off FB marketplace. Have wired it up to my sierra fuel float, and seems to work as expected. Have only left it on for a short period to test the principle. I have seen on various forums a requirement for a voltage stabiliser and or resistors but am getting conflicting info. Does any one have a definitive answer. Do I need this? Same question for a smiths temp gauge

That is a real sweetie! You must be gutted to be selling.

Hi Steve, is this the same piece as a PCV valve? looks similar...

Steve, that'd be great. I'll also keep looking then now I know that they exist Thanks mate A

Daft question, but I've managed to break teh plastic union that plugs into servo and the vacuum line - it was getting old and quite brittle, and it came apart in my hand, guv. I've not been able to find a part unless I get the whole line for about £40 odd. Being a bit of a tight fisted Meldrew, I don't like paying that for essentialy a small plastic nozzle. Has anyone been in this situation and come up with a suitable alternative? I did find a landrover one on ebay, but wasn't sure whether it would be common Or even better has anyone got one lying around?

No probs Lee, thanks for the reply

Don't know if you're still in the market, but I think I have a speedo and rev counter cluster from a Sierra knocking around on the garage

Hi Duck, thanks for that input, I didn't realise this was the case, although it makes sense considering the dearth of suitable heads! I'll definitely have a look at this product and do some research. Another option I was considering was getting the car IVA'd as is, (I still have all the vin plates and docs etc), and then swap out for a 2l, banking on the head lasting for the time it takes me to get a suitable replacement lump. PS, still interested in those clusters and dials - if you still have them will you be able to post?

Hi Alan thanks for your reply, yes that has occurred to me. I'm getting mixed messages on whether the leaded exhaust ports can take the strain or not. Some folk like yourself seem to have no trouble for years, where as others have reported failures relatively quickly. As far as I can make out there was some variability in the earlier heads that may be accounted for by different foundries /suppliers, however that might be a bit of speculation. Cheers A

Hi Burney, thanks for your reply! Cheers A

Aaaah, thought that might be the case. Never mind, your man cave is safe

Great stuff, and thanks for getting back to me! Lol sounds like a great idea! And I'd hate to tear up your dreams. Cos it's for an S7 I don't even know if they'd fit - there isn't much space. bu thought it'd be worth checking out. Yes, please let us know about the other components. Cheers A

Hello, if anyone has one of these at the bottom of a cupboard or down the back of the sofa would be glad to hear from you Cheers A