nelmo

You haven't paid your $400 to Photobucket http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=45689

I spoke to Carling Technology today and they are, very kindly, going to send me (for free!) the right type of switch I need, which will effectively be a ON-ON-ON type, so I can enable the Park signal in the first position (if that makes any sense) - means I don't need a relay.

That's exactly what I'm struggling with at the moment, although just passed IVA, so I've got 3 years to get it working ☺ Problem with my switch is that it's a OFF-ON-ON type with no connection in the OFF position. I've found a circuit online which uses 2 relays to make it work but I'm going to try get a different switch which has a 3rd usable position for Park.

Sadly, I have neither of those switches - I have a Carling rocker switch where, in the fast speed position, the slow speed position is still connected/live. Just wondering if that is likely to cause the motor a problem...

Does anyone know if it would be a problem to have the fast and slow speed signals to the standard Lucas (mini?) wiper motor live at the same time? Wiper motor schematic here: http://www.gomog.com/BLAIR/tech/electrical/wipers/2speed/2SpeedWiperMotor.html

Being of the lazy type,I'm considering a polishing set that fits in a standard drill, to take the hard work out of it. This is to polish the ally panels. There are loads of them cheap on eBay - are these any good? Any better brands I should look for?

Thanks all... ☺

Yeehaa!!! A pass (just about) - details in blog....

Thanks guys, the 'kink' he saw was minimal, he was more concerned with the graze on the side of the pipe where the flaring tool marked it. In fact, he was umming and aahing about failing it at all on that - at the end, he actually suggested I just cover it up so the next tester can't see it! Which is what I've done using that Silweld tape stuff :-) I might try the garage idea for the brakes - what did he actually do? Grind your pads down? @Richard, thanks for the offer but I don't think I've got time to get them off you...

A bit of a spanner in the works...I phoned up to book a re-test and was offered either this Friday or July 31st! I just can't wait so long for the re-test so I'm going for Friday. This means no time to wait for deliveries so no pressure reducer or brake balancer. However, as the difference between front and rear was marginal (35 rear, 34 front - I have no idea what those numbers refer to), I only need a small improvement up front to sort that out - I'm hoping a re-bleed will be enough. A couple of long evenings ahead...

Simple Ford master cylinder, vented discs front, solid disk rear. Any ideas how to make the rear weaker?

Well, today was the day and, sadly, a fail but nothing serious. Full details in the latest page of my blog (link below).

No problem - although very jealous of you retiring at 44 I think I was very lucky with my electrics - they mostly worked first time. I would recommend Richard's blog (link from mine) - more technical than mine and he knows his electrics...(although always tricky to explain electrics)... Good luck with the project...

With respect, I would have recommended a lot more research before you took the plunge. Buying a part-built project is probably harder than starting from the beginning as you haven't built up any experience. Is your problem with how to install the panels or where they go on a 2B? 'How' is quite easy (see my blog - link below) but the 'where' I can't personally help you with. I am in Reigate in Surrey (about an hour from you) and you're welcome to pop round (PM me) - I've got my IVA next week, so not free this weekend to get to you...got some last minute jobs to do.

Easy to say if you only live 50 miles away... would you have gone for the day if the factory was in, say, Newcastle?

... Er...you're one of those Zero owners - isn't it just that Zero owners also happen to be RHOCAR members? :-)

What is Range Rover reliability like these days? I remember looking into getting one 5 years ago, registered on the owners forum and the horror stories scared me off - almost everyone on there had problems (but they did still 'love' their cars). I was driving behind a brand new LR Discovery a few days ago and one of its rear lights (LEDs) was flashing on/off. Less than a month old and warranty claim already :-o Personally, this is a much better bet: http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201703263712476?advertising-location=at_cars&price-to=27500&postcode=rh20ss&sort=price-desc&radius=1500&model=RX%20450H&make=LEXUS&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&page=1&advert-type=featured-listing I have the old model, 130k miles so far, not put a tyre wrong...

You just need some of the main parts to have a known history, the engine being a main one and you're fine there. If you get a Sierra doner with a V5, also good but I believe if you bought reconditioned bits (gearbox, diff etc) and had invoices for them, that would also be fine. If you're thinking GBS, give them a call - they can give you a definitive answer.

Jeesus - is there any silencer on that?! I would be SO unpopular in my road if I started that up... Bloody lovely noise, mate...(from someone who DOESN'T live in your road)... Is that the V6 from the Mazda MX6? I had an MX6 years ago - didn't sound anything like that...(wish it had though)...

Ah, across the width - that sounds a better idea...

Well, looks like I'm going to have to raise my seats for IVA because the harness slots are too low so belt run isn't straight. I was thinking of just using a pile of penny washers between runner and floor plate washer but it doesn't feel right - my seat will effectively be balancing on them. Is there a better way of doing this or will that be OK?

Arrgh, you're right! Why didn't I realise? Many thanks... and I'll get those bigger washers.

Thanks guys - so do your seats still wobble a bit or are they rock solid?

I've got Intatrim seats on universal runners but they're quite wobbly. I think this is because they are effectively sitting on the 4 nuts that go through the floor, rather than being flat to the floor, if that makes sense. What I mean is, after fixing the runners to the seats, I put a bolt through the runner with a nut to tighten it against the runner. Then that bolt goes through the floor to the final nut and washer underneath. If I don't have that nut, I can't tighten the nut underneath but that nut is, i think, causing the wobble. Is this normal? Have I got this right or am I doing something wrong?

Wow, great job from welding and no engine in 6 months! Any more pics and details of the work?