AndyW

Hi guys, I need some advice from those more knowledgeable about engines than me. Mine seems to be using a lot of oil and fuel consumption is also terrible. Superspec with Rover T-series 2.0litre dohc engine, multi-point fuel injection, MEMS 1.6 ECU. The engine has only done 3800 miles so virtually new (although 20 years old). Last year I had to rebuild the head - had 4 new valve guides fitted (2 inlet, 2 exhaust), and replaced 4 exhaust valves and 7 inlet valves. New gasket set and cambelt used. Everything went back together successfully and I've driven the car over winter but I've got some issues: - Seems to be using a lot of oil. I've probably topped up with 1.5 litres of oil in the past 800 miles. Every time I check the dipstick it's on Min. - Starting first time after standing for a couple of weeks, there's a bit of white/blue exhaust smoke that goes after a minute or so. So it's burning a bit of oil. - There's occasionally some exhaust smoke when driving while warming up, but nothing obvious under normal driving (although it's not easy to see the exhaust from driver's seat). - When started from cold the engine feels and sounds over choked, and runs a bit rough as though plugs are fouling. It doesn't misfire though and then runs much better when warmed up. - Fuel consumption over past few months is only 24mpg. - Changed plugs recently, they were dry grey/black on the tips but oily carbon on the base of the threads. - Looking through plug holes the tops of #1 and #4 pistons are wet, but middle 2 are dry. - Compression is good, around 250psi on all 4 cylinders. - Not losing any oil down side of engine and no drips on floor so I don't think head gasket is a problem. But the top of the head between the cam banks and in the plug wells is wet with oil. - Had a lot of trouble getting the emissions through the MoT recently. High CO and lambda. I've used Al Richey's MEMAnalyser software on the ECU which shows no faults and all sensors are working correctly - coolant temp sensor is correctly reporting between 75-100C, and the O2 sensor is in closed loop and outputting 0-0.9v oscillating. So, it's using a lot of oil, presumably burning it steadily when driving. Where would that oil be coming from? And the fueling is over-rich but as that's all controlled by MEMS I can't see any way to adjust it. Would these problems be linked? Any ideas what could be wrong? Or checks I can make.

I'd be interested in the MEMS ECU to have as a spare for my Superspec. I'll be at Stoneleigh. I might also be interested in any engine parts when you get them checked and listed.

I've got Halfords OAT Antifreeze Concentrate in my Superspec, mixed at the lower 33% protection level. You need an antifreeze with organic inhibitors and silicate free for mixed metals engines as the t-series is iron block and alloy head. I used the antifreeze lookup tool on the Halfords website to find out what type to use. It's bright orange and supposed to last for 5 years.

Mick, I'd read that also somewhere before, but didn't have any at hand to try. Some bike websites recommend alloy wheel cleaner, but those I have and tried didn't make any impression. The Autosol bluing remover seems the best of everything I've used, with least effort. Andy

It certainly looks better than it did originally, but I think I'll leave the polishing for birthdays and special occasions. Life's too short for constant polishing :-)

Have to say it didn't stay shiny for long. Driven about 50 miles since cleaning the pipe and already the yellowing is starting to return.

As Al says, 10/40 semi-synthetic is recommended for the Rover engine. I use Halfords brand. My oil filter is a Crosland L10288PS from Eurocarparts (p/n 501750018) but there are many equivalents. My notes say it's 76mm diameter, 13/16 UN thread and 85mm high. Any taller and the filter will hang below the sump.

Handy to know that everyone is running similar universal filters. I'll try a new one. Hi Peter, yes please. PM sent. Cheers Andy

Just managed to get my Superspec through MoT retest today after initially failing on emissions. One of the things we found was that the engine ran much better, with lower CO, and had a crisper response when the air filter was removed. This leads me to suspect that the filter is old and probably blocked or too restrictive, and is making the mixture too rich. It's a cheapo cone filter fitted directly to the throttle body intake above the starter motor, and probably draws hot air in from the nearby exhaust headers. Not sure if this was the RHE supplied type of filter as a Rover type airbox for a panel filter isn't fitted. So can other Superspec owners recommend an effective air filter that will fit the Rover 2.0 t-series engine. Don't want to go for anything mega-expensive. Also where have you got it fitted, or how have you ducted it. Cheers, Andy

I must be unique then in having a Superspec with correctly reading fuel gauge - shows full down to empty and is fairly linear. Not that I can take any credit. Must have been set up correctly by the previous owner.

I've just tidied up the stainless steel bonnet on my Superspec. The bonnet lies on a 1" rebate at the rear of the grp nosecone, and at the other end just lays on top of the stainless steel scuttle. On both ends of the bonnet I've used 8mm chrome plastic U edging to cover the raw steel edge, which has a mastic fill to give some adhesion to the bonnet edge. On the hidden edges of the scuttle and nosecone which the bonnet sits on I've used 15mm soft U shape rubber channel edging which gives a reasonably tight fit on the edge and some cushioning to the bonnet. Take your pick from the various types of edging available from CBS and Woolies.

Hi Joe, What springs and shocks are you running? On my Rover engined Superspec the previous owner replaced the original Zimmerides with Gaz coilover shocks. It's now got 8" x 350lb x 1.9" springs on the front and 10" x 300lb x 1.9" springs on the rear. The ride from the rears seem fine, but unlike you, I find the fronts far too hard. There is virtually no compression of the springs over bumps and the front suspension ride is generally very hard and jittery. I've got no body roll at all! So I think my front springs need to be much softer, but not got around to changing them yet. Also, I've only got my front shocks turned up about 5 clicks for the rebound rate. I turned them down from the original 18 clicks in an attempt to make the ride more compliant. I'm running tyre pressures of 20 psi rear and 18 front in an attempt to further improve the ride. As a comparison I've driven Al Richey's Superspec which still has the original Zimmeride coilovers (don't know what sizes). I've got to say his car rides much softer than mine, and I prefer that to my constant hard crashing. You can see his front suspension working and moving in relation to the body. Moves far more in comparison to mine. So I'm no expert but I'd say choice of spring weights is critical to ride charactersistics. Rebound can be tweaked but only after you've got the springs right. I'd be interested in finding out what spring settings other Superspec owners are running. Cheers, Andy

Al beat me to it with more info :-)

Hi Danny, Is yours a Superspec with the Rover 2.0 engine? If so the fuel pump is in the tank and powered by a relay. The Rover MEMS uses 3 relays for the main ECU, fuel pump, and O2 sensor heater. Each of the relays should be fed from the battery through their own fuses. On mine there's a green wire goes from the relay to the fuel pump along the central tunnel. The fuel pump relay is controlled by earth trigger from the ECU. When you turn the ignition on you should be able to hear the pump turn on for a few secs to pressurise the system then it turns off until the engine is cranked.So you won't hear the fuel pump running much. There may also be a fuel cutoff inertia switch fitted, normally somewhere between the relay and the pump. If you have one see if this has been triggered and reset it. Unfortunately there isn't a useful wiring diagram for the Superspec. I'm slowly drawing one for myself but not complete yet. Some things to check. Cheers, Andy

Great work! Another Super Spec lives. I'm looking forward to seeing it sometime over the summer hopefully.

This website gives a lot of info on MT75 differences. See if you can spot yours. http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/components/mt75-gearbox/

Hi Mark, Before and after pics. They're from a different angle but I think you can see the improvement where the yellow/brown heat tarnish has been removed. It's only a 30cm length of exhaust between the manifold 4 into 1, and the CAT inside the dog bowl :-), but only took me about 20 mins to clean up with the bluing remover.

Well, pickling paste seemed a bit too nasty and difficult to get hold of, so I ordered some Autosol Bluing Remover instead from the Polishing Shop. Have to say it worked a treat. Just left it on for a few mins gave it a good rub down then washed it off and the stainless exhaust came right back clean. Finished off with a good buffing with Autosol SS Polish and I now have my shiny exhaust back again. Have to see how long it lasts of course.

Suggestions please on the best way to remove the yellow/brown heat tarnish on my stainless steel exhaust pipe.

I did go in the end and braved the fog and cold. Not many other cars there in the hour or so I stayed - just a Lomax, Jenson Interceptor and Saab Carlsson. But had a great bacon roll and few cups of coffee.

Anyone planning on going to the New Lodge Farm meet on Sunday morning (5th)? I might make a run up there if anyone else is going and the weather keeps dry. But won't bother if no-one else will be there as it's a fair way for me.

Cars for display can arrive from 9.00am (separate entrance) and gates open for general admission at 11.00am. http://kimboltoncountryfayre.com/

One for me please Dave. Was a good show last year even though I didn't manage to get there in the SuperSpec.

Hi Al, was hoping to join you, but got to take daughter back to uni on Sunday afternoon. Maybe next time.

Hi Chris, try this page for generic EOBD p-codes and likely causes. http://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/