Mrbarry

I have done some googling and can’t find any answers, so here I am again. I have smiths flight gauges and they all work perfectly. The fuel gauge is a little too keen however. In the corners as the fuel sloshes side to side the needle reacts instantly and swings all over the place. It’s all set up correctly but needs smoothing or dampening. Has any one else had any luck with this problem?

Well it’s been 300 miles now problem free. Happy days thanks guys for the help.

Not bitter just saying it was extreeeeeeeemly cheep.

I have used the search but it isn’t bringing up anything that seems to fit the bill here. I have the Gbs repack-able exhaust with the cat and it’s rattling like a good un on over run. I’ve decided it’s time to fix that. Few questions. Best packing? Demon tweets do it in 1 meter lengths 500mm wide for £12. Seems a bargain. Any one got experience of this or any recommendations? Any tips for doing the job besides a mask for the nasty stuff? Its a poor affair really, this exhaust had only done 500miles and I know of two people who had to repack before they even made IVA, and at £424 from kitspares you’d expect better! A £25 replacement muffler for a Kia Getz doesn’t rattle and lasts years!

Sold?? Was given away that’s why.

Fair enough then. Be a shame not to own a kit of some sort tho, trouble and smiles in one package.

It’s well worth joining anyway, there’s a few benefits like cheaper insurance and invites to club only events not to mention discounts at Europarts stores. Internet websites don’t run for free and £20 is pocket change for the help you can get here. As for electric water pumps I used to run one from an MR2, cheap and with Toyota build quality you can’t go wrong.

Agreed she goes well at 140. I made adjustments to the brake peddle and reservoir so they no longer stick on, and on inspection the throttle bodies where only opening to about 75 degrees with the peddle fully depressed. I made a twin throttle linkage so I can adjust the throw and rest position, now I get 90 degrees WOT at full travel and the rest position is just below the brake peddle whilst braking so I can heal and toe, mainly because I like to blip on a down shift. Next week I am going to do a bit more work shortening the throttle cable and adding strength to the peddle cover because it moves around when you push the throttle peddle, then it’s off for a quick map tweak. Not expecting a lot more power, 142 would be pleasing enough.

Right good news. Just fitted a pair of wheel spacer to the rear wheels and checked the hubs, they seem ok. But better still I went to get fuel and did a 10 mile test drive. Speedo is perfect. It’s never lasted that long so I’m hopeful now. Thnks for the help and pictures much appreciated. Car is now full of fuel ready for tomorrow’s meet, 160 miles round trip should test it well.

I’m just off to get fuel read for the morning. Will be there all things being equal.

I’ll check those then thanks. The bolts had thread lock and red match marking so had not come loose, the washers had dished like Belvedere washers because they where so thin and clamped over a large hole, I would say this had caused the appearance of loosening but with the same result, insufficient clamping force of the planes. As for spring washers, little understood they are, I had to to a presentation on the so called self loosening of fasteners as part of a HND, if you look up ‘junker’ and ‘self loosening’ I would never touch one, 9 times out of 10 they accelerate self loosening. I like star washers. But both star washers AND spring washers are single use and should NEVER be used in conjunction with a flat washer. You should also use two, one under the head of the bolt, one under the nut. They are not designed to provide clamping force as a result of their apparent spring action, they are designed to grip and resist rotation due to their sharp leading edges. Once removed they should be replaced. You can even get left and right handed versions for left and right handed threads. Waffling on a bit here sorry. Will check the hubs later. This winter will see a bare chassis rebuild, I would like to reduce weight, increase reliability and whilst I’m on add a turbo to the mix. Also want to route the exhaust under the car (after much head scratching I have found a way) and put a resonator box in the boot with twin pipes exiting one each side of the diffuser. Im fed up of warning people not to touch the exhaust every time they get in or out already. Plus with no exhaust and the egg timer shape of the car it will be feasible to drive up onto 4 angle iron ramps for working underneath. Win win apart from the loss of boot space.

Well I managed to get it all done last night. It was 11:30 when I had finished so I didn’t test drive at all but the speedo sensor is just about on its 4mm limit and picking up the prop nicely. I had to fit new plug and socket to the proxi because the other one was also destroyed, I have a theory here’s lol. First sensors just had the tip taken off so I adjusted the angle of the sensor to give a better rang, the last one was set well away from the prop, obviously the cable was not clipped well enough and got caught pulling the sensor into the bolt holes and bang. This time the cables are very much away from harms way. Annoying because I’m an electrical engineer and that’s a rookie mistake. As for the diff, it’s now fitted with cap screws and nylock nuts with large flat washers. All torqued to VFT, that’s not going to move now!

Leaner mixture or advanced ignition timing would do that. Amongst other Things but that’s where I’d look if you’ve had furling issues. Where to you get your trigger from for spark? Has that been knocked/adjusted. Your fuel pressure hasn’t been changed has it?

Yeah I have made some 6mm thick stainless washers for the top and have some 3mm thick 40mm penny washers for the bottom. Will be trying it in the same position again later tonight. I’m going to the meet Sheffield way on Sunday and would like a speedo for the drive

Finally had a spare hour. The rear bolts where all sort of tight but I got a full turn on all three. The front lower bolts where 12x50 with standard nuts, I’ll replace with cap screws and nylock nuts. These bolts where both loose, one rattling about, the other finger tight. They only went thru the lower holes in the did not the upper ones, they also lacked any spacers so could rattle about in the large diameter holes.

Oh yes agreed, enforcement is another matter. I grow veg and have the river running thru my garden, literally a river in the garden. It’s shown on my title deeds that I own the river, I own the fishing rights too. I’m still not allowed to take water from the river without planning permission would you believe, had some whole spiel about it of the conveyancing clowns when buying the house. During the drought mid summer when my 800L of water butts run dry I may borrow a watering can or two from said waterway. Who do you expect will enforce the issue I must add that plastic watering cans float away faster than you can run for a rake if you drop them in because the rose comes off as you pull the bugger up, apparently

I don’t go to the meetings I just hear stuff here and there same as we all do. That’s what I heard and what the meter reader told me independently. I told a friend at work that end of 2021 it will be illegal to burn wood in a domestic multi fuel burner (terrible idea anyway but that’s an other story) he was all irate and saying it couldn’t be true because he has just spent £3k having one installed. Insisted the fitter wouldn’t have certificated it etc. He couldn’t accept that the fitter wants cash and the ramifications where not his top priority. From 2021 it’s low sulphur smoke free fuel or nothing. That is something I am fully aware of because the wife sells coal from the same yard, calor isn’t just gas. I believe bonfires are to be outlawed at the same time.

Good stuff thanks. When we order I feel more confident I’d be happy with induction now.

Brilliant thank you. I have found pictures of the top, the sides, arms cut off. All sorts. That’s the first picture of the bottom and mounting plate. The spigot you mention is clear in that picture, just need to get home so I can look at mine.

http://jonszero.blogspot.com/2013/09/differential-brakes-time-to-catch-up.html?m=1 just found this on a google search, it’s turning into more of a chassis thread than electrical now, all the same I will am itching to get home and look at mine now. Bloody work

Sounds very much like that may be my issue. I’ll look tonight more closely, already have the diff cover out of the boot. Any one for any pictures?? Just joined up for the year too, worth a few quid for the help

Good to hear. Is it as controllable as gas then? Theory says it should be. With our hob at the moment you have to turn it on ten minutes before you want to cook so it can heat up, then off ten minutes before you want to slow the cooking down. Such a pita. Ten minutes may be an exaggeration by the way, but it doesn’t feel it some times.

Kit car solutions do an adaptor for £33 that plugs in to the mx5 cable drive and gives a 5 pulses per revolution square wave out. Might just get that. It’s 5v feedback tho so need to check if the flight gauges need 12v or will pick up 5v. I assume it’s Hall effect so will be a nice ride and fall not a sine wave too.

Yeah that’s where is mounted. Just going to shift it for now. Had a look under the car to find my speedo sensor is cable driven so no good. Not unless I do something to adapt it but sod that.

I did think that but the number of pulses at 120mph (if I ever for close I know) would be massive, I’m unsure what would be the limit for the gauges but that’s a lot of pulses per minute Just had a look and the back of the wheel studs are around 5mm proud of the main hub including a casting that they sit on, so it’s a sensible option to mount a proximity switch in a hole thru the crap shield looking at those. Then calibrate and it should be reliable.