Hi Dean

Just need to know a few more details.

What wheels are they for:- Make model wheel size etc,

Can you not measure the other wheel centre caps or the wheel centre holes of the second hand one's?

To many unknown facts to hazzard a guess as to what size you require!

Please note! they say that the bolts are stretch bolts so may have to be replaced?

Regards Martin

Hi Mark,

Detalis from LOCOSTBUILDERS.CO.UK

These tightening values are for standard bolts in a us focus svt, the engine is identical to the st170 lump.
Main bearing cap bolts

Stage 1: 25 Nm
Stage 2: 60 degrees

Connecting rod bearing cap bolts

Stage 1: 35 Nm
Stage 2: 90 degrees
 

3 hours ago, painter said:

Does anybody know how the 'bar' supporting the brake switch is connected to the side flanges? It doesn't appear to be welded. I suppose a mirror and decent camera would show this. There is very little brake pedal travel and the brakes are not great. Considering the power to weight ratio I don't think a servo would rock the boat, though I have been warned that this could result in 'over braking'. Looking forward to getting some fresh air driving (within current restrictions) once this is done!        

Hi Chris,

Having saved your pictures so as to get a better look it appears that the bar is bolted each side, could be wrong on that!

The capping all'y plate appears to be retained by the switch plastic grommet that is used for adjusting the switch.

Not sure about the master cylinder, but if it is possible to remove without things falling to pieces after undoing the nuts then you maybe able to remove it with the pipes still in place and see if a longer push rod is possible.

It looks like it is offset to the brake pedal with the additional all'y box on the front, not to sure on that?

Nothing gained without trying a few options.

Regards Martin

6 hours ago, painter said:

Hi All,

I need to adjust the brake pedal position which is currently 60 - 70mm back from the accelerator (and about 30 - 35mm back from the clutch). It is a standard Sierra set up (1985) but I can't see any threaded linkage that would bring the pedal forward. Tempted to put a servo on the car but very little space outside the pedal box. Has anybody found a way to adjust the pedal reach?

 

You have a couple of options:-

1-That is not a standard Sierra set up. The pedals are looking correct but not the frame from what I see.

2-Remove scuttle panel so that you can get to the pedal box setup to remove items and adjust to you liking.

3-From what I can see, the brake light switch is acting as the rear stop for the pedal travel.

4-Can the switch be adjusted to allow the pedal to come back more? Just twist left or right to lock or unlock in place.

5-Try taking the clip off the push rod and remove the switch to test.

6-You may have to make a longer push rod to bring the pedal to the correct position.

7- Is the accelerator pedal position a problem?

8-Generally if the brake and clutch pedals are level then we cope with a little amount.

9-Take the pedals off and modify  them to suit your requirements.

Think I have covered most options with the above.

Regards Martin

How will the wet weather roof fit with the light in place, Just asking?

Can it be seen?

1 hour ago, phaeton said:

Is it worth it if yo get pulled by a jobsworth VOSA bod, also if you ever come to sell it

How is jobsworth MR VOSA bod able to tell what cc it is?  He would be looking if the engine number matchers.

Don't think any buyer is going to quibble if it has a few more cc's. 

Hi Derek,

RH 2B 2Lt. Pinto

Just checked DVLA 6 months £148.50  12months £270.00

I tax mine for 6 months then SORN over winter

I will be taxing it June 1st for 6 months

Regards Martin

Neil, 

It sounds to me that the new high level brake light is finding it's earth through the L/H indicator.

Check that your earth to the light is good, I have seen it so many times on vehicles where there is an earth fault.

I assume the indicator did't come on before when you pressed the brake pedal?

May I ask do DVLA need to know of increased cc of engine? 

As long as you change engine number and let your insurance know that it is now 2000cc whether it is 1600cc or 2000cc it is the same road tax to pay!

May save an engineers report.

Just bending the truth a little!

On 5/16/2020 at 11:04 AM, maca said:

To answer the Q reg or age related you will now find it harder to get an age related plate without having to jump through

hoops to fulfil their requirements. It is possible! 

While I did say about jump through hoops I did get an age related reg from them with the aid of a letter from Ruth Hall at GBS with regards to the chassis as below:-

Part Letter Details.

(Based on the information provided, we write to confirm that the above Robin Hood 2B chassis that is now owned by (ME) was purchased part built from Robin Hood Sports Cars in 2005)

This was accepted by DVLA

I have enclosed documents as below.

V627/1

V55/5

IVA PASS

V5C of donor vehicle

The registration fee £55.00

The road fund payment £245.00

My age related V5C states 

1. Rebuilt-Assembled from parts some or all of which were not new

2.SVA/IVA CERT ISSUED 24 08 17 Emission Limit - %C/O0,3.0; 0.2 FI HC 0.02FI; Lamboa 0.97-1.03

Neil check out these filters, follow the guide on the site I have done a search.

Round Tapered Universal Air Filter

FA - Flange Angle
F - Flange Inside Diameter
FL - Flange Length
L - Height
D - Top Outside Diameter

Select one to three product dimensions                                                                                                           

 

Part	Flange Inside Diameter	Flange Type	Flange Length	Flange Offset	Flange Angle	Height	Base Outside Diameter	Top Outside Diameter
RC-4540	3.313 in (84.15 mm)	Centered	0.750 in (19.05 mm)	0.000 in (0 mm)	0	6.000 in (152.4 mm)	4.750 in (120.65 mm)	3.500 in (88.9 mm)	Metal
RC-9770	3.313 in (84.15 mm)	Centered	0.750 in (19.05 mm)	0.000 in (0 mm)	0	4.375 in (111.125 mm)	4.750 in (120.65 mm)	3.500 in (88.9 mm)	Metal
RC-9790	3.375 in (85.725 mm)	Centered	0.938 in (23.825 mm)	0.000 in (0 mm)	0	3.875 in (98.425 mm)	4.938 in (125.425 mm)	3.500 in (88.9 mm)	Metal

HOPE THIS MAKE IT MORE CLEAR FOR YOU TO CHOSE THE FILTER YOU REQUIRE

K&N Search by Dimension

Round Tapered Universal Air Filter

FA - Flange Angle
F - Flange Inside Diameter
FL - Flange Length
L - Height
D - Top Outside Diameter

45 minutes ago, NickandNeil said:

After two years of renovating an unregistered Exmo I have finally requested an IVA test.

My doner car was a Ford Sierra 1984.  Will it be elligable for road tax exemption in 2024?  If so, Does it make a difference whether it is an age related reg or a Q plate?

They asked on the IVA form when the car was compleated, so will it be registered 2020, and does that make a difference to the road tax exemption?

Neil

Hi Neil,

To answer both questions it will not have an exemption from vehicle road tax due to it not being first registered until this year.

(NOT 40 YEARS OLD) sorry but it is age related from first registration.

I put my completion date as the day I sent the paper work in for the IVA.

To answer the Q reg or age related you will now find it harder to get an age related plate without having to jump through

hoops to fulfil their requirements. It is possible! 

Regards Martin

Neil, Not knowing the dimensions that you require have a look on their site at:-  https://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/universal

You can then match your needs to the dimensions required.

Regards Martin

Thanks John, 

I was a 5- week old baby on that day in 1945 can'nt say that I remember much about it then.

Keep safe.

Martin

And remember us OAP's  

That didn't have the "green thing" payed our taxes back in the old day's and are still paying taxes from our Pensions!

Depending what switches you have mine are as below:-

I purchased this item from ebay item No. 252651891201

Cost £4.00 inc postage.

18 hours ago, flameredturbo said:

Hi, 

 Long story it’s sat unused in my garage for around 4 years now.

 The braking is awful and I’m wondering if there is a suitable servo that anyone has squeezed into the engine bay with success? 

First option give all the brake parts a good overhaul to check that all the callipers and cylinders are operating.

Clean of all sliders disc's and drums, brake disc pads and rear linnings

Check that all the parts are serviceable and reassemble 

Test if brake are any better.

Now for options if brakes are no better, Have you any room to fit a remote servo unit or change master cylinder to suit better brakes.

The brakes may need to be bedded in again before any improvement is found.

Just a few things to look at before going in to deep. 

Chris

Nice looking car, now is the time to change your Member profile car to match.

Not a RH 2B

Neil 

We all have to find these sort of things out and it is always better to ask than be in the dark.

I have just been reading your build blog and had just got to the steering column when I got this notification that you had replied.

A very good blog only problem I have found you have to read it from the bottom up so to speak.

Regards Martin

3 hours ago, nelmo said:

No, I can't move the column in and out at all, with the lever up or down. And yes, with the lever down, the column just moves up or down. And, no, arms still same length...belly a bit bigger though 

@maca, that picture was taken 5 years ago when I was just starting my build. I haven't moved or touched the column since (apart from this drift I have now, which wasn't intentional). Which pinch bolt are you referring to? I cannot see anything except that one bolt facing you in the pic and that just seems to be holding the lever on...the only other bolts are the 2 holding the whole thing to the chassis.

What tells you it is in the fully-out position?

 

Neil

The bolt that is holding the handle has a plastic rotating piece that has 4-segments that close the length of the bolt when applied upwards in an anticlockwise direction. If you can magnify your picture you should be able to make out the part I am looking at.

Are you able to push the handle down in a clockwise direction if so then it should make the column free to move in or out and up and down.

Not knowing how the Zero steering bracket is designed I am not to sure how yours operates.

(What tells you it is in the fully-out position?)  The handle bolt is at the bottom end of the slot.

Try pushing hard on the wheel and the column should move down.

My column is mounted through the holes either side of the 90 deg. angle bracket shown in your picture.

Hope that explains it a little more clearly to you.

Regards Martin

Neil 

That is the same column that I have. removed from a Sierra.

The adjustment is both up and down Rake in your discription and in and out Reach

As your picture is showing 2-slots.

It should be mounted on the brackets each side of the column. 

It could be that you need to tighten the pinch bolt a little to stop it from moving towards you.

The picture is showing it in the fully out position.

Release the clamp handle on the left downwards and tighten the nut a little on the right side of the column. then reclamp and test.

Regards Martin

Windscreen keeps the wind rain and flies out of your eyes.

My Choice.