phaeton

Unfortunately with the DVLA it's often down to whomever picks up the application, they have a (or did have) a lot of agency people in there that didn't know the rules & just did stuff without understanding what they were doing, not say that is the case in this instance, but they don't seem very consistent in their approach.

That is not surprising apart from their historic department I doubt anyone would know what a Pinto engine is anyway. Have you tried, dare I even suggest it? Faecesbook Ford groups?

Have a look through https://helixautosport.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Performance-Clutches-Catalogue.pdf to see if you can find anything close to what you are looking for, it might get you closer.

Is there a Ford specialist out in the Wolds?

Not worth trying to 'pull a fast one' not that I am suggesting you are, does the engine have a number as if not you're going to struggle anyway, I've done engine swap/size sevral times without any drama, but as you say you have to get a garage to confirm the engine number & the engine size. This is the letter I normally send Garage Name Garage Address Garage Address 2 Postcode To Whom It May Concern, As per your request to Mr MyName to provide independent verification of the engine fitted in the vehicle with registration Reg No. VIN No: Vin No Current Engine number: New Engine No From the website http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/content--name-MG-Rover-MGF-MGTF-Vehicle-Information Suitable Link I and Garage Name can confirm the engine capacity is 1796cc. Regards, MOT Tester Name Garage Name.

Just as an side once had a Fiat Coupe Turbo, put it on a diagnostic as it had an ABS fault, came up with Right Rear fitted a new sensor from Fiat still had the same light, put it back on the diagnostic still the same Right Rear, swapped the 2 sensors over (via wiring) & it went to Left Rear, it appears the diagnostic was taken from facing the car at the engine, Not sat in the drivers seat.

Thank you, I wish everybody would come back & give an outcome, either positive or negative, it's nice to know.

Is it possible to swap the bleed from the top to the bottom, had calipers before where that was possible. No idea what a Sierra hub looks like, but logically if the NS were on OS & OS on NS, the the calipers instead of being on the front would be on the rear (or vica versa) & the steering arm unless detachable would also be on the wrong side for the rack,

That would depend on what the donor car ran as ideally you need to try to keep the rolling circumference the same, you don't advise if you are pre or post IVA which means if pre you need to ensure your speedo reads correctly

6.5J 185 to 205mm if you want to push you could go for 215mm, I would probably go for 205mm rear 195mm front,

That needs replacing whether it's the source of your issue or not

That's a very small diameter one, can you mount a larger one remotely? CBS do one if you have deep pockets

Apologies I missed that, just another benefit of Brexit that the sheep didn't realise

Any idea what the tool is/does, often you can make/jerryrig something which will do Edit:- https://www.ebay.com/itm/235492714744 looks like you could also use an angry grinder on a deep socket to make one

LOL that makes more sense

How is the dipstick going to get through the cylinder head & into the sump?

Suspect 5/8" UNF if it's only the nut you require

As there is no image I presume you are a troll & your post is not real

I know the guy who scratch built this, powered by a 1.9 or 2L VAG Turbo I can ask him if he minds passing his email on if you wish

There are a couple of other things you should be aware of, when you come to apply for an IVA test & later when you try to register it they will ask for a copy of the invoice from the manufacturer of the chassis which you clearly won't have. I've never done it but I'm told you need to provide the invoice of the steel & have a few photos of it's construction. The other issue might also insurance company may need lots of information about the steel etc. as it's scratch built, but good luck & enjoy the ride.

Until they realise the errors of their ways, it's a false dawn, there are bigger & better alternatives to come, electric is not the whole answer.

If yo know anybody with a sandblaster you could ask them to clean it up & then reassess the situation, although depending on cost & availability I'd be tempted to look for a replacement

Is it a ballast resistor?

Has a slow starter been eliminated, are you able to tow start it, or at least attempt to tow start in 3rd?

Are you doing this alone or is somebody with you, only asking as a quick spray of Ezistart (other brands are available) when being cranked, if it fires, it's likely to be a fueling issue, if it doesn't it's likely to be an ignition issue, that is assuming it's not a compression issue.