Peter Bell

Vent to some sort of a catch tank.

If you have a Mk 2 then any of the monocoque models should fit, 1,2,3, exmo .

Simplest is just use what you have, leave the vac disconnected. The vacuum normally improves fuel consumption at idle and low speeds. If you have servo brakes you can run that from 1 runner, you can’t do that for the vac advance though.

Have you got an injection set up with the pump in the tank?  From your description it just sounds like it could be the standard level sender.

I’ve got a complete rear beam assy, drum brakes though with a 3.38 open diff. 

How much work has been done on your engine? If you just want it to give a better initial kick then using a 38dgas will give that effect as both chokes open at once, it will fit on the same manifold you have. Ultimate power will be very little difference as the dgas has 27mm chokes and the dgav 26 and 27.

She says thanks very much, used your answers to to solve another one but didn't use the one you answered as it was cheating!

Years ago a daughter was complaining ‘when will I ever need to use trig in real life’ so I got her to work out the camber on the front wheels on the hood!  Not sure if she ever forgave me.

Makes you realise there are clever people on here many thanks!

Many thanks chaps, I’ll pass it on but I’m still trying work out the logic! I can see the minus 1 x  0y start but the x10 9y?

My Granddaughter has this maths problem, can anyone help? It seems to me there’s something missing but it’s probably me!

For those old enough to remember.

Fairly common occurence I'm afraid, I know someone who is restoring an Elan, the mice had destroyed the headlining so he replaced it, due to other things it was a while before he got back to it only to discover they had eaten the new headlining too!

Re fuel pipe I have just blanked it off on the thought that it may be required again one day. Mind you that was about 15yrs ago!

Heres a Rover V8 in one, I think it's a series one not an exmo but it will be the same size.

As you say It sounds like you are not getting fuel in the idle circuit. I suggest you remove the idle jet and make sure it is clear, they are quite small. If you screw the idle needle right in and can squirt carb cleaner with a tube or air line into where the idle jet seats, it will blow any muck back into the float chamber. If I remember correctly those bushes a quite small and pressed in, you would wreck them trying to remove them. I suspect it’s just dirt somewhere, have you got a fuel filter in the system?

I guess you really need a new thread for this problem but I'm struggling to quite understand what you are saying, here is a picture of the DGAV idle circuit. As you see the fuel drawn up through the idle jet 37 mixed with air and then the amount going in is controlled by the idle screw 33. The Butterfly is only very slightly opened the progression holes are on the 'open' side of the flap. There is a throttle stop screw on the mechanism which opens the throttle slightly to finalise the idle speed. As a rough starting point fully close the idle screw then undo it about 3 turns.

The rubber bushes will probably take up more misalignment than the poly ones, but seems odd Burtons make that statement.

As Richie says that is just a fan switch arrangement, you have a thermostat housing already, it’s the alloy housing elbow that the top hose connects to. It looks a nicely built car but with some ‘interesting’ build quirks! 

The pulley is keyed in position on the cam so as long as you don’t slacken/move the vernier bit there won’t be a problem

If you have fitted an expansion tank to the radiator then you will need to keep the proper cap on the rad. If not and you have a spout on the rad neck then blank that off and use a blank cap on the radiator. The caps won't fight each other, the lower pressure one will relieve first  making the other redundant.

Hi Ray I have 1 set of camber/toe wedges left if you are interested?

They are normally used on the monocoque cars and bolted on so I assume yours is a sub K type with a sort of mcpherson strut. I guess you will need the brackets welding to the chassis rails.

Re your red bit, looks like it’s been modified, I suggest the upper hose goes to a catch can, possibly the lower was supposed to be a return from the can but as it will be slightly pressurised when running it wouldn’t work. Try blocking off the lower connection. Make sure your catch can has a decent breather on it. 
This hopefully is a link to Dave Andrews site it has loads of useful info and this may be the oil breathing bit! http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/wateroil.htm

The ford valve is quite clever and has a differential piston in it which reduces pressure to the rear brakes.