Dave Ed

Pics please, always fancied an mgb.

I've been looking at these seats for a while now. I think they will fit my exmo. You'll have to let us all know if they fit along with pictures.

Mine is exactly the same as Bob's. One turnbuckle by the elbow.

Congrats Richard.

One of the issues is that Rolls Royce arent prepared to help maintain the engines. The engines are old and costly to maintain and rebuild. As an example a Tornado engine RB199 is a million pounds to rebuild. They also require periodic maintenance at various flying hours. This can add to the overall cost of keeping the aircraft flying every year. Manhours, parts, fuel, it all adds up. It'll be a huge shame if they do ground her.

Good luck Duck

Ouch a 12 month stint. I'm sure MPA will be having a few drinks in her honour.

Well reminded Phil. Luckily she will be flying right over my house.

I think the 4x4 hubs use different TCAs, pinch bolt instead of a nut. I think the size is the same. I discovered this when I purchased adjustable TCAs.

I've still go loads to do on it. Replacing carpets and seats and I've still got to get my dash finished. I'll certainly be enjoying it. It's coming to work with me tonight as some work colleagues have kits too. One is rebuilding a 90's Westfield and one is building an MEV.

Well for the first time in over 8 years I now have an MoT on the Exmo. I have to say a huge thanks to everyone who has helped me with advice and manual labour overtheme last few years. An extra special thanks to Phil Spencer, Steamer, Simon B and everyone who has helped me at the Donnington show. Without this club and it's volunteers I'd still be ticketing and head scratching. I can't wait to get out on the road and use her. Dave

Have you been in contact with Westfield as they have an S2000 build option so will have builders using the same engine with diff etc.

Can't make the bash but I'll look at postage and get back to you. I'll try to get some photos for you tomorrow so you can have a look and make your mind up.

I've got an ally one that you can have. It's quite ropey and needs straightening but the basics are there. If you rebuild it then you can space it to fit whichever carbs you are intending to use.

Fixed it. After issues with getting the correct length hoses and going over the system yet again I noticed that the calipers on both sides weren't sliding properly. I stripped both calipers down and measured the two slide pins and neither were parallel. After some manipulation they were measured again and much better. I dry built the calipers up and fitted them to see if they slid ok which they did. Rebuilt them fully with pads and bled them and I now have a decent brake pedal Mot booked for Friday, woo hoo

By Jove you're correct Holmes. Good thinking, I'll have to try that next.

I might be able to so long as the threads are the same. I can't see how the copper pipe is at fault. I've looked everywhere and can't see any leaking or pinches on the copper. I think that operating the brakes is overpowering the hose clamp and bringing the caliper into play. It's ironic that the passengers side was fine but I replaced the calipers as a pair and now I have a problem. I'm away with work for a couple of weeks now so will have to contact the motor factors and get a replacement and pick it up and organise the refund.

The story so far. Excessive travel in the brake pedal. I have disconnected the front brakes at the M/cyl and fitted bleed nipples. There was no movement in the pedal with either the engine off or running, therefore I have discounted the servo, master cylinder and rear brakes as if they were at fault I would have had pedal travel. Next I fitted the drivers side brakes to the M/cly and bled the system, the pedal travel was minimal with either engine off or running therefore I don't feel that there is a fault with the drivers side brakes. Lastly I connected the passengers brakes up to the M/cyl and bled the system. I had minimal pedal travel with the engine off but loads of travel with the engine running. I dismantled the calipers and checked the seals, all look fine so I put some fluid under the seal like Grim suggested. It didn't make any difference. I then clamped the hose at the caliper end which didn't make much difference. So I clamped the hose as close to the body as possible, this made a bit of difference but not loads. This would suggest to me that the issue I have is between the M/cyl and the hose to the caliper, in other words the copper brake line. Just to clarify for all the questions asked: The caliper movement is the movement on the sliders as the pedal is pressed. The hoses are not bulging but I aim to replace them at the earliest opportunity to eliminate them from the equation. The pedal travel is NOT all the way to the floor but it is close, Normal travel without the engine running is 1-2 ins With servo/engine running its 6-7 ins (estimated) I haven't disconnected the servo as I had eliminated it when I checked the master cylinder earlier. Am I right in thinking the caliper on the drivers side is OK when I isolate it using the hose clamp or could it still be operating I can't see how a solid copper hose could cause this issue.? Thanks so far for all your help and advice. Hopefully I can get this sorted soon. Dave

Mick. the disks aren't secured so possibly weren't sitting true to the hubs. I'm going to check the slide pins and clearance of pads and disk .I'll also be carefully watching the calipers for movement and the pipes for bulging.

No not yet. It's on the list of things to try before I give up and hand it to a pro.

Mick. I've replaced the m/c a couple of days ago and its still he same. I'm convinced the calipers and m/c are like for like. Except for the calipers the only thing I touched in the system was the handbrake adjustment. Front and rears have had a full bleed and refill. I'm sure it's the calipers, I'll check clearances etc soon otherwise it's going to my local garage for 2nd opinion. I'm away with work again soon so work on the car stops again.

Here is a pic of the drivers side, hopefully it will upload. I think the flex was just the calipers straightening up the disk when the wheel was off. I have the original caliper mounts fitted with the new calipers and will check the pipes for bulging. An issue I have is that I painted the calipers before I fitted them but if they are wrong I'll return them regardless. I've missed my 10 day window for a retest but really want to get this fixed. I'm going to disconnect the servo and see if it changes the snag but this will be at the weekend now unfortunately.

The calipers were CA401's as far as I can work out they are correct for solid disks for a 1.6

I'll post some pictures tonight hopefully but it will probably be a couple of days before i can get on it properly. Cheers guys for all your input so far Dave

OK cheers 2B, i will start from the top and work down, thanks for all your input Dave