richyb66

I got mine from Mtec Racing in Tamworth as they're local to me and were dead helpful - paid £15 for the pair as I paid cash, didn't want a reciept and I collected them. They've got an Ebay shop http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Mtec-Racing-Services that sells all the bits but if you give them a ring and tell them what your after e.g. M10 bulkgead fitting one end, M10 fine to suit Ford caliper the other end and the overall length, they should make them up to suit. Think they're normally about £12 each. Their phone number is 01827 250646

Sounds cool - can't you just live with it?

I started to fit my Premier loom last night. No wiring diagram supplied with it but the written instructions look clear and easy to follow and there seems to be plenty of wire on all the breakouts so there shouldn't be any need for any extending to make it reach (unlike some other looms I've heard about). Price was (as JJ says) around £120 - only downside was the delivery was a bit slow but when I chased Alan up he sent it out immediately. OK the cost isn't the cheapest way of doing things but it should go in quickly and stand a chance of working, plus with everything new (as opposed to re-used Sierra), when I'm broken down at the side of the road in the rain, at least it probably won't be dodgy wiring that's the problem.

Are you sure the fish aren't drinking it?

Yes, Grant boilers. They're good, very efficient and made in the UK (but with an Italian Riello burner). I fitted a Vortex Combi 26 (condensing combi obviously) last year to my place in Wales, it's a good bit of kit but like most oil boilers they aren't cheap to but so it pays to shop around. The list price seemed very high but I got mine for just under £1700 incl VAT and a further £170 for a low level balanced flue. All the info is on their website at www.grantuk.com I can't comment on the running costs because it was a new system and I'm not living there all the time so I've not got much to compare it to. I also fitted the Grant GEO360 controlled to the system as this further increases the efficiency but at nearly £600 just for the controller it'll be while before it pays back. Financially it's a worthwhile add on but it was an utter nightmare to wire up and Grant were no help as the unit is made in Canada and they just market it under their brand name - and I suspect they don't sell many due to the cost. I just had to figure out all the wiring myself, it works a treat now and the beauty is that it's so complicated to adjust the temperature that the missus doesn't fiddle with it! Let me know if you want any more information.

There might be something for sale here maybe this weekend? http://imm2009.com/imm/ Allegedly there's 50,00 people expected to visit.

Someone buy this man a diary.

How much too long? From memory the shafts expand when you take then off (not sure if the joints are spring loaded inside to stop the driveshaft rattling around). Pass the shaft through the suspension arm from the outside, engage the splined end of the shaft in the diff, gently tapping the other end of the driveshaft to make sure it's fully home and then bolt the hub carrier to the suspension arm. I seem to remember when I did mine I had to push the carrier hard against the suspension arm to compress the shaft and start the bolts. Maybe start it off with a couple of longer bolts?

gaz I bought a box with a load of assorted sizes from wickes recently for under a fiver. I'll try and match some up to my dizzy and bring them along on Wednesday. Rich

I see that the nuts and bolts you've used are A2 stainless steel - remember that the tensile strength of A2 fasteners is slightly less that Grade 8.8 steel ones. I personally wouldn't use stainless fixings in any high load application such as seat belt or suspension fixings

Graham, I'm busy fitting the side panels, bonnet, scuttle and rear wings on my 2B wishbone at the moment. I've been posting photos on my website as I go along - there's no captions but most are pretty obvious. The link is here: http://www.oldschoolannexe.com/photos/inde...p?album=0000%2F If you're not sure what model yours is, there's a Robin Hood spotters guide on the very useful North West Owners site: http://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm Richard.

I cut mine down last Saturday, I marked it out with masking tape too but used a hacksaw across the big radius of the bonnet to start and then finished off with just a hacksaw blade with gaffer tape wrapped around the end to protect my hand. Granted it's not the fastest way of doing the job (took me about an hour to do both halves) but the cut is really neat, no nasty sparks and no danger of costly or unsightly slippages. I used a decent quality fine tooth blade which cuts easily without snagging if you take your time. Looks like this now

Mike, they're free, just collect from Tamworth if you're passing anytime or I could see if I could get them taken to one of the shows (I don't get to do shows because I live in Wales at the weekend). Could possibly be posted out but perhaps not the best option due to the size and shape. Just let me know what you want to do and we'll sort something out. Rich.

Mike, If you need the fibreglass edges for the rear wheelarches I've got 2 surplus to requirements - I've gone with one piece superspecs ones on mine (£125 a pair from GBS). They're blue and yours if you want them. Rich.

Randall Motorsport do them - as used on F2 stock cars https://vault2.secured-url.com/randallmotor...p?ProductID=266 Not cheap but work well.

Think you need to put some prices - as per Rule 7.

I hate to see people littering but the best one I've seen is as I was passing a car on the motorway I saw the driver rolling his window down and seeing that he had a fag on, I knew he was going to throw it out of the window. Now I'm not sure if the sidedraught of my van being alongside caused it but as he thew the butt end out of the window, it promptly blew back in behind him onto his jacket on the back seat - priceless. For a couple of seconds he wasn't sure where it went but when he realised he was frantically pulling over onto the hard shoulder to retrieve it - what a tosser.

We use it at work for scanning full size clay models of cars, it's fast and you get a lot of 3D positional data but as the beams only travel in straight lines and you have to have cameras positioned around the target to record the data it's only really suitable for scanning the outsides of things it can 'see' around. www.3dscanners.co.uk

Jess, as something cheap to try have you considered using some of this: http://www.racelubricants.co.uk/product.as...35&P_ID=512 I know some F2 stock car boys use it to help theirs Pintos run cooler and it would be a lot easier to try than making big changes to the cooling system Just seen they're only in Brierley Hill too so it might be worth a trip over there?

No, it's well clear of anything that's likely to move about.

Isn't that just a clear powder put over the top of polished parts?

I used steel pipe too, run down the tunnel, high up so it's well out of the way of the prop and clipped in rubber lined P clips. This is it in position before shaping the front end around into the engine bay.

You might want to try this to set the base idle (with the engine hot): Turn on the ignition and wait 10 seconds then remove the stepper motor plug. Turn off the ignition and wait 30 seconds or until you hear the main relay click out. Next replace the stepper motor plug and turn on the ignition and wait 10 seconds. Remove the stepper motor plug again. Turn off the ignition and wait 30 seconds etc. Then repeat once more this will ensure the stepper motor is fully closed. Now with the stepper motor plug disconnected start the engine and set the idle speed with the throttle stop screw. Then replace the stepper motor plug.

I'm based on the Lleyn at weekends but sadly my 2B is still in pieces in the garage in Tamworth - hopefully on the road next year. Visitors more than welcome thought even if it's just for a cuppa and a slash after a drive out.

No reason why you shouldn't as long as your welding is decent. Might be a bit hit and miss on the setting as you need to make the cut, adjust it, tack weld it, re-assemble everything, check the alignment and then re-adjust / finish weld as necessary. I can see why someone would want to use wedges.