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Everything posted by speedtripledan

  1. When I say i.m going to run a bypass 15mm hose it will have a valve in it to control flow from 0 to 100%. I appreciate what you are all contributing but if I have to replace the stat back in to the system it renders the exercise semi pointless as the pump and controler were meant to be able to do this hense the point of fitting it. I will try the stat out of interest thou
  2. There are definitely issues ! No I haven't tried no pump as it would be very difficult to reconnect it once car is off the ramp...
  3. Not received mine yet, i.m assuming you haven't done email entry's yet ?
  4. Sounds about right to me, they are a tight fit
  5. As a test i.m going to run a 15mm hose from the rail to the bottom hose. When I bought the car its how it had been plumbed in and used to run 110 on the motorway, will see how it effects things before any more money is spent
  6. No I bought the kit new his marlin was the 150l min type
  7. Spoke to the importers who recommended the 115 due to the bhp... Just *bleep* a load of ££ up the wall and gone backwards !
  8. No oil cooler. Davis Craig have responded saying put the stat back in. Which defeats the point of there pump and controler
  9. No pump sensor is in top hose, gauge and ecu are by the head, but they all read similar
  10. Plumbing is bottom rad outlet to electric pump inlet, pump outlet feeds into mechanical pump (impeller removed) that then exits head to race line rail which in turn feeds out to top rad inlet. No stat
  11. 3 temp sensors all reading the same, pump controller, gauge and ecu
  12. Yes I've emailed them, not ringing as they are in Australia. Awaiting a response Also spoke to coolex who haven't come across the issue and find it very strange!
  13. Yes it did help a little bit. But it still wouldn't maintain set point
  14. new Spec 2.0L zetec with 243bhp 55mm coolex polo derived rad raceline water rail davis craig ewp 115 electric pump and controller old spec as above except standard zetec mechanical pump and 82deg thermostat In the old spec the car would take for ever to warm up to the 82deg sat on the drive idling, if you pulled away before getting to temp it could take 15miles to get to 80 and if you were on a long steady run the temp would drop to just below 80deg, i want it to be 85deg. getting stats to fit, in the right temp is getting awkard as they are old ford xflow fitment so i thought i would try something different i have now fitted the new ewp pump and controller, and the problem is worse!! the cars warms up at idle a lot quicker, it sits there holding temp perfectly with the fan and pump doing what they should. I go for a drive and boom the temp drops from 90 to 75 and will not raise until i stop driving then it creeps up to set point and maintains it. This car used to have an old polo type rad which used to maintain the temps just but was always marginal when you started to raise the pace it would heat up and barely keep things cool, hence the change to the coolex 55mm, Does the rad have to large a volume and too large a surface area? every time the pump pulses, is it shooting a large volume of cold water round the system which is to much for the engine heat produced? Is the pump sending to much water round the system? both mech and elec pump did the same effectively. only difference is the mech had a stat the elec dosent its meant to be controlled electronically. Is the raceline water rail causing some sort of issue? Is the fact that car has so much torque and power now that i,m not driving it hard enough to generate enough heat? both coolex and davis craig recommended the rad size and pump to suit the car and its engine spec. Not sure what to do now any ideas and opinions please
  15. speedtripledan

    What To Do?

    If you chop the chassis up be careful. When I chopped a 2b many yrs ago the tubes were under tension and grabbed the 9" grinder and nearly caused injury. I ended up cutting almost through then used a hack saw to finish the cut.
  16. Working, my weekend starts tomorrow where i.m fitting my electric water pump and my boost controller
  17. the new pump is here and being fitted, every kit car ive had has always had issues cooling in one way or another so thought i,d give it a try
  18. The 82 is to cold the 88 I've tried raised the temps to 120 before opening then knocking down to 88 for a bit then back to 120 etc maybe faulty stat but bored of messing with stats now..
  19. Mine was borderline on cooling before putting the charger in, it's the new coolex rad that is causing the additional cooling. It just shows shows how good the rad is versus your standard polo/ golf item that I had before.. it's also another "cool" upgrade to add to the list on my car
  20. One small issue I now have is I cannot get my zetec hot enough it runs at 80deg and takes up to 15 miles to reach temp. The new cooling system I fitted is basically to good, getting a suitable stat for the race line waterrail is limited and getting more scarce by the day it uses the old X flow stats. The electric pump will address all issues, fast warm up and ability to select running temps then the engine cool down after a run. 1 other bonus is increased power and a better mpg (apparently) Will update once it's here and fitted. Ironic really all the trouble people have trying to keep there temps down and i.m trying to raise mine.
  21. Started a new project today to try and tame the boost when trying to cruise @70mph. The idea is using a Mac 3port solenoid boost controller and a mini vacuum pump. The plan is when I switch to economy map it will switch the valve over so the plenum vac line to bypass valve is closed stopping boost pressure at the same time the mini vacuum pump then pulls the bypass valve open thus stopping boost. Hopefully then I will be able to drive at 70mph without boosting to warp speed all the time... Will update when I have made and fitted it all.
  22. Existing photos unfortunately so can't do a lot with them,more to the point can't be bothered !
  23. dunno they are as the galaxy s8+ takes them
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