niduncan

These are the early type of mount:

Not sure if this will be of any help as this is on a Series 3. I used a VR sensor (crankshaft sensor from an EDIS setup) on my VDO speedo. The VR sensor it triggered by the diff/propshaft bolts.

I fitted an in-line filler with a dummy radiator cap in the top hose, this is used for initially filling the system. A small diameter hose runs from this to a Rover header tank attached to the scuttle, the system is topped up through this.

Series 3

Tomas, you have a PM. Nigel.

Eric you have a PM. Unfortunately the wiki file size limit is to small for the pdf file I have created. Will have to stick with e-mail. Nigel.

Dan & Mitch you have a PM. Nigel.

Dave, The left hand bolt is the one that holds the cam belt cover on. The right hand bolt holds the casing on, I used a longer bolt with a length of metal tube as a spacer. I do have a template of the bracket, I could scan it and e-mail it to you if it would help. Nigel.

Coil pack sits on top of a cut down dizzy. First time I tried this I did not realise the dizzy drove the oil pump so I did not fit the drive shaft, got a bit of a fright when I found I had no oil pressure!

I had the same problem so I raised the complete windscreen then covered the gap between the bottom of the screen and the scuttle with a bit of thin sheet steel.

This is how I did mine: Nigel.

The bulbs are definately 55/60W. Main beam is good, it is just the dip beam pattern that is not right. Could be that my lights are just rubbish! Are your lenses the same as mine?

I fitted a pair of these last year, I got them for £30 from a bike show. They look great on the car but they do not perform well. The dip beam is supposed to be flat but at the last MOT the tester was not impresed! The beams rose slightly to the right, he did pass them but it was a close call. I very rarely drive in the dark but returning from a trip to Normandy meant an overnight drive home from Portsmouth. The dip beam is terrible, the original 7" sealed beams were better. When funds allow I shall be replacing them with someting better. As always, you get what you pay for!

My Series 3 has been on the road for 10 years and done over 18,000 miles and I have not discovered any cracks yet. Maybe it is just down to how good the particular welder was who welded up the monocoque in the factory. I assume that they were welded by hand and not by machines.

I used a trigger wheel from www.trigger-wheels.com that was the same diameter as the crank pulley. I was not keen on mounting the trigger wheel onto the front of the pulley as the sensor would have to be removed if the fan belt needed to be removed. I mounted it on the back of the pulley by machining a shoulder and enlarging the hole in the trigger wheel to give a snug fit. One I decided where the sensor would be mounted the trigger wheel was welded on.

Difficult to gauge the size but it could be the pushrod for the fuel pump.

Are you sure the noise is coming from the valves? I had the same problem, a very nasty rattle above 4000rpm which was coming from the front of the head. It turned out to be the cam belt cover vibrating against the engine, X on the picture is where it was vibrating.

Somebody built a Series 3 with an auto box, don't know who it was but it can be done.

The propshaft that was supplied with my Series 3 kit in 1997 was manufactured by Dunning and Fairbank. RH must have started to produce their own at some time after 1997. Glad to know mine is a goodun.

I had a similar problem, severe clutch judder while pulling away. The clutch had done about 12,000 miles and had been in the car for 9 years. Changed clutch cable, checked diff and gearbox mountings. Removed the clutch and it looked perfect. I put in a new one anyway as there was nothing else left to change. Problem cured - no more judder. I assume that long periods of inactivity over the winter months might have a detremental affect on the pressure plate spings? As you have the clutch out anyway it would make sense to change it.

I use a 4x4 wheel step - link - that I picked up at Stonleigh one year. It straps over the spare wheel then I strap on a large holdall plus sleeping mats.

Just returned from a weeks camping trip to Normandy in the Hood. Weather was very mixed from red hot to howling gales and torrential rain. The Hood did 700 miles without missing a beat even after the engine being soaked after a heavy rain fall. Luckily we took a sun canopy for the tent which, due to the torrential rain, ended up being a temporary garage for the Hood. The roads in Normandy are great, very quiet but a bit bumpy in places. Having a TomTom was a great asset, I don't thing our marriage would have survived my wife's map reading! Hope you guy's going this weekend have some good weather.

Bush - Ford Part No: P F1522783 Price £1.30 last year.

I bought one of these click here at Stonleigh a few year ago. It hooks over the spare wheel and is secured with straps.

I am currently fitting awning rail to my series 3 which has the squarer profile windscreen frame. The only awning rail I have been able to source is quite substantial (9.5mm internal diameter), it took me two attempts to bend it without it fracturing. I made a cardboard template of the bends and bent the rail in a bench vice. I heated the rail using a blow torch until it was too hot to touch with bare hands then bent it by hand (gloved) using the template to get the bends correct. It was then attached using countersunk self tappers. I am also making new sidescreens from polycarbonate sheet and the wife is knocking up a hood using ripstop nylon with a rear window made from the stuff used in tents. What type of rail are you using Rich?