Jamiep

just saw a news story on BBC about the stigs true identity. frankly I don't care who it is/ was but I think it might have been a zero he was driving on the headline splash. I hit record (sado) but the pvr hadn't fully loaded and missed it. edit. bloody iPhone corrective text. how do I edit the title?

mine has an access hole ubdeneath that the previous owner cut, still having a nightmare trying to refit the 90deg converter due to lack of space.

hi, Paul I went in the tintop with the kids. was a good show although I thought it was a bit too spread out. I take it this is yours looked good (had a good mosey) the orange striker looked good too. where did you come from, we should meet up sometime.

good idea using l200 scoop, looks good. should in theory be iva safe if anyone needs it as it's from a mass produced vehicle, but don't quote me on that bit lol

the BBC showed one in a museum where the captain of the last flight stuck his cap in the gap and now it's there forever more. watching that programme showed how much the crew loved the plane. apparently they lost 40 of their most frequent flyers on 9/11.

I'm off to hull car show, never been since it's been in the park but friends say it was good last year with a mix of styles and types. I think it will mainly be modified as it's run by hull cruise. I'm also taking the kids to play at the park too.

there is quite often a 'similar' vehicle clause aswell to stop (young) people having insurance on a 1ltr micra and driving perents 4ltr v8 merc etc. when I had a 1.4ltr mg I could drive unto 2.5

I believe for iva you must be able to use the hazard light with the isolator key out. read it in one of the kit mags q&a pages.

even if it is an 'urban myth' type of post it gets people thinking about their actions. I have the upmost respect for our emergency services and the work they do in these situations.

atleast you can reach the rear screen and just wipe, which is what I do. as for the mirrors, I fitted mine after the hood so positioned them so I could see through the side screen/ windscreen. I find traffic lights a proble when stopped, if there are non on the opposite side you can't see when they change.

wasn't really planning on doing much to mine but as more thing fail/ fall off I'm finding more and more bodges so I think I'll strip it back and start again. current problem, no fuel gauge and no speedo/ tacho so I'm playing petrol station roulette on every trip lol

was going to/ did post about bend position of bars but didn't see last page lol. the cars coming on nicely Daz, I may well be tapping up for advice soon as mines in need of a full strip and rebuild.

I can not see pics either, just a photobucket message saying image has been moved or deleted.

I saw a guy selling these at one of the shows last year and looked it up on the internet, someone got done by trading standard for making the same claims using ww2 as examples. not saying it's this guy but the same storey seems to be used on all the 'rogue' ads I saw.

hello, use the link above or post some picks of the front suspension and someone on here will identify it for you.

how fine an adjustment would would need? from memory the Rose joints are m12 metric wich is 1.5mm pitch turned 180deg. so that's .75mm movement isn't it. I think you'll get more flex from the rubber bush. just my thoughts, correct me if I'm talking daft.

I regularly drive with the roof on but take the doors off unless it's rainig. it gets too hot with doors on. I drove my car right through last winter including snow and to roof was essential.

rs components is the company http://uk.rs-online.com/ bit steep on one off items tough I used to pay 50p a collar when buying a few hundred at time. but I suppose that's company buying power for you.

snotfart, I wish I had your garage! the tie bars look spot-on and the milling of the flats to aid tighening of the nuts is a nice touch. Daz, have you looked into bending the bars to clear the wheels or are you putting stops on the steering rack? In your other post you feared that 304 grade st/st is a poor grade, don't worry about that. Just make sure you rinse it down if used in salty conditions and it will be fine.(this aplies to most stainless below 316 grade, including the grades robin hood used to make the tubs, which i believe would be in the 400 grades to reduce the risk of work hardening)

I did mine last week using an old double ended bike spanner, one of those cheap stamped out one that come with kids bikes. I put a plier type oil filter remover on the pulley squeezed it tight with a quick camp and jammed it under left side of engine bay. I then used a lone bar as a drift on the spanner clockwise and it just started to turn as the spanner started to give. it then unscrewed by hand. (all working from front of engine)

All sorted now thanks. BTW there is a good video on youtube on how to time and engine using dti's on the piston and vernier cam pulley etc, just can't remember the link now

Although I don't have the equipment I know what your after, the guy obviously doesn't want the work as its not a big job on its own, for similar items I used to get charged about 25/30 pounds although we used to use 303 grade as it machines a bit better. a hand drawn sketch should be fine, don't put tight tolerances on as this will increase the price, also tell them its free issue material if you have the bar otherwise they will add the cost of a 3.2mtr length unless they have any scrap. Use the correct terminology when talking to them ie you want one end turning down to 16mm diameter with an M16 male thread about 45mm long and the other end drilling and tapping M12 X ?? deep, sometimes it helps if they think you know what’s involved and what it may cost. Hope this help, if you get desperate either scan/ photo your sketch and I'll speak to my old suppliers for a price. The only awkward part is bending the angle as it requires a press break at quite high tonnage with a risk of marking the bar with the tooling, a machine shop won't have this but a fab shop would, again I may be able to help. Are you in a hurry as this is a mod I require so could look at price for 4 rather then two but wont get chance to look at mine until Sunday. regards, Jamie

I've just been on ebay looking for 32/34 DFTH weber carb service kit and found 'fastroadcar' on their shop it states if its a direct replacement for the 32/34 it will fit the manifold of a 28/30 as I have just swapped mine about 30mins ago

have you tried a local motor factors or euro carparts etc. not always as cheap as ebay but the personal service/ experience can help, plus they quite often swap parts if wrong.