Jamiep

lol guess I won't need that when I rewire, this loom is full of random plugs and unconnected wires everywhere.

can somebody please identify this part and what it's for...

thanks,

Jamie.

yer I think I'll give that a go first and mabe turn up some spacers once I know the length needed.

thanks Dave, I pm'd Peter a while back but I think he only had 1 set left which had toe correction too which I'm not sure if I need yet. He also sent me in your direction as he thought you may have a second hand set. I sent you a PM but not sure if it worked.

regards,

jamie

my exmo is boxed in the full lengh upto the rear u/j, Is this something the builder would have done or is it part of the tub. may remove if possible as I do worry about the prop twisting but not being able to see it.

(sorry for hijacking the thread)

there are a few quick release bosses available which are straight bolt on items but these all bring the wheel closer the the driver.

I too want a quick release but from what I've seen the hex type seem to have too much backlash. the spline type are quite a bit more expensive but you can now get some with electrical connection with in. (these are mega bucks! £300+) would be cool to have wheel mounted indicator/ horn/ flash though.

as title, I'm after some camber correction wedges, any angle really just need to stop the tyres rubbing on the tub.

I'm at stoneleigh on Monday if anybody has any.

thanks,

jamie

if nobody else has dibs on the brakes can I have them, I'm at stoneleigh on Monday.

thanks,

jamie.

Looking forward to this, will be attending on the Monday in the tintop and hope to grab some bits and bobs for the kit (and a club mug )just a shame we can't get there in the hood but it has issues, least of which is tax and MOT

I have these money saving ideas from time to time, at least you got some new tools. I myself was forced to buy a new 1/2" drive torque wrench to fix the wifes car, had nothing atall to do with also needing one for the hood

there are some very good bonding adeasives available for stainless but would have to be a clean flat area and you would have to be able to clamp an even pressure over the whole patch for 24hrs.

I was involved in a test using such a bond which we could not split using about 1000kg but we also had one that failed after 10kg due to the sheets not being cleaned properly.

I think mowerman is probably on the right track ref: the stiff front end as it's repetitive shaking that does in stainless.

can you post some pics of the cracks with reference to where they are as I haven't found any on mine but would like to check in same areas.

as for repair,I'm no expert but if possible drill the ends of the crack the reweld and possibly weld a patch too.

mig welding works fine on stainless but remember to use stainless wire and if possible argon gas to reduce discolouration and impurities in the weld.

if your not confident in welding stainless try looking for a local food equipment manufactures/ fab shops as they will weld it on a daily basis.

I got the wet weather kit from GBS a couple of years ago and it said for 2B on the bag it came in. The roof fits well but I had to shape the side screens quite a lot. I also had to mod the windscreen support posts, but I dont think mine are standard as they are laser cut with a 7 in them.

I used mine right through winter 2009/10 and in the snow/ice and it kept me dry but very hot!

like said above high grade stainless is brittle so it will probably be lower grade similar to a kitchen sink which is in the 400's.

salt water will attack most stainless upto 316 grade (food quality) and some chemicals will attack that also.

always rinse off salt water and a good stainless cleaner/polish such as 3M will help protect it.

wonder if the roller switch could ativate the wipers via relays, if so a stick on logo and you have a nice all in one unit.

and white vans

 

No, your mistaken.........white vans dont even need a gap!

On a serious note, i cant believe there isnt a camera either at the junction or either side that they could check if they were bothered.

It has really started to get my back up the way people just dont care about car damage nowadays. 'your insurance will pick it up' seems to be the rule.

rant over!

The hood does seem to srink quite alot when cold. I left mine fitted in the garage this winter, good job too as the puddle on top suggests I have a leek in the garage roof

I'm looking at getting new seats as the plywood things I have are knackered and basically rubbish.

after taking out the old seat I have found why my belts never seem comfy either, there is some sort of reinforcing box in the corner at the point the side meets floor and rear wall.

can anyone tell me if this is a standard feature. how did people overcome this and position the belt mountings inline, idealy somewhere close to current iva regs.

which Ka m/c do people use, there's a few on eBay with a smaller servos for little money but some have 2 outlets others have 3. should it be one each left/ right front and then 1 to rear an then tee off? does model of Ka

have much effect and is there one to avoid.

thanks.

I've been having the same thoughts since a guy down my street put one up for sale for ~£1k

don't know the dimensions nor can i remember the last time i saw a sierra in the flesh but think they might be a bit wider then an mx5.

There are plenty mazdas about I'm supprised more people dont use them as base cars.

I too like to leave a gap but on occasion after sitting at the end of our road for ages, i admit i have used the 260 ponies under my right foot to steal someone else’s gap.

I have to turn right and go east bound in a morning on the duel carriage way when every body else in Hull seams to want to go west, it can get quite frustrating that nobody lets me out.

thanks for replies, will be getting one in near future although I now need a bonnet resprayed so the budgets been nicked

Hi, does anybody use a Parrot MKI9200 in their tintop?

I'm looking to replace a nokia car kit that came with the car and have been advised by local company to get one of these.

There seems to be mixed reviews on tinterweb but they are quite old and bugs seem to relate to iPhone os3x where as I'm on 4.2 (iPhone 4)

local firms are quoting ~£300 fitted although I can get from halfords for £170 I think I need a special cable for the Bose stereo in the MPS6 which could be £70 !! to fit myself.

anything I should consider that you think is better, or things I should avoid, please let me know.

thanks. Jay.

All my tintop speedos have read over on the clock compared to gps, my MGZR was the worst after adding 17" wheels as optional extra from new. guess they didn't bother that the speedo was wrong aslong as its faster then your travelling you wont get flashed. My Exmo on the other hand reads 30 when I do 40 which is a different matter, I rely on my GPS!

never had an Mgf but had a zr for about 6 years, the k seires is a good engine although quite close to the limit on coolant levers, one thing to look out for is the water pump leaking. quite often the cause of HGF but rerly fixed which often leads to repeated failures.

I modified mine, changing internals from 1.4 to 1.8 and using PTP cams (very close to tf135cam) was putting out around 140bhp and more torque the the ZR160 made huge difference and never had the head gasket let go. changed 2 leaking pumps though!