Big Jim

Hey up there Tony! Happy birthday mate. It's all uphill from now on!!

no idea if i have it or not, I'll have a look in the garage later.

As Lee says, this is a very common fault, but before you do as Lee suggests, run the car for 30 mins or so, let it get nice and warmed up, get some heat in the metal. I personally would push the car out onto the road, get your coat on, then start it up in gear (1st) without the h/brake on, and continue to drive it, change gears as per normal, although for the first few it might "crash" through them, it will soon release. Be aware if you need to stop and it still hasn't released, knock out of gear and coast to stop, switch off, and start all over again. i'll bet it'll clear very quickly.

I didn't do it a world of good in 1995 when I tried to fly off my motorbike and through a mini (put a lovely dint in the roof/door line) The hospital said that I'd knackered the ligament in the back of the knee, but if I could manage, they weren't going to operate, as it would be 50/50 if they made it better or worse! Needless to say, up to now I've managed! Over the last few days of doing nothing except watching daytime TV, it's got somewhat less painful, but there's now that much "slack" in the knee, it certainly wouldn't pass MOT, just waiting for another hospital appointment for a MRI scan on it. Whilst I'm impressed with the speed for being attended to now-a-days, I still don't trust them much when it comes to the repair job!

Oh mikikae, get off those beta blockers ASAP if you can, they are awful, well they were with me! On another note, I recently had to pay a visit to our local A&E dept with my knee. Rusted up in the bent position, hurt like hell, and wouldn't straighten. You should have seen me trying to get into the Landrover with a brush for a crutch etc. Anyway, I digress......... After booking in at A&E, I was only waiting about 5 mins before being called into a cubicle to see the vet (sorry..... doctor ) then straight down to x-ray, (that wasn't fun! bloody leg just woudn't straighten) back to the Doc, told nothing aparent on x-ray, so to come back to hospital to fracture clinic in the morning, given pain killers and something else, then went home. Back to fracture clinic the morning after, again less than 5 min wait, before seeing the doc, more x-rays, still no waiting. I was highly impressed, both times I'd never waited more than 5 mins for anything. Years ago, a visit to A&E would need a packed lunch and a sleeping bag, minimum wait was 2½ hours, and that was with no-one else in there! Nigel, your hospital must be having a crisis with bed availabilty due to the flue epidemic etc

As someone who knows the procedure (been through it a few times!) Any chest pain, get the person into hospital (I got *bleep*ed recently for wakening Mutley up at 3-30am to take me in last time, told in no uncertain terms that I should have called 999) Once Ambo arrives, they'll put on ECG, give Aspirin ( to thin blood) and possibly another tab for cholesterol. Once Ambo confirm that no immediate risk of Heart attack, then transport to hospital. At hospital, straight into A&E, no waiting. Back onto ECG m/c. If pain still persisting, possibly a jab with a BIG needle job into stomach with something that thins the blood, and morphine for the pain (I love that stuff! ) Now blood taken for test, this goes to path lab for testing, depending on where the path lab is, and how busy etc. usually 4 - 8 hour wait for results. At our hospital, it has to go to Preston Hospital. Meanwhile, pain & ECG are monitored. When the results of the blood test come back from path lab, these will show if it's been a heart attack or not (depending on what they do can obviously show other results as well) If it's not been a heart attack, then it's something else. It could be anything from trapped wind, to Angina, sometimes they can hear Angina with their stethoscopes. OK, so now we are 8 hours down the line, it's not been a heart attack, all pain has gone, ECG is normal = patient can go home. Within the next few weeks, patient to expect an appointment to attend the hospital sometime for an exercise test. This is done on one of those treadmill things, whilst wired up to an ECG. Maximum time on this is 15 mins, (I managed 2½mins before had to stop.) Failed, exercise test = then possibly the next step is an Angiogram. 1 day in hospital whilst they inject a die into the blood vessels around the heart (through the main artery in the thigh)whilst under an x-ray type m/c, this shows up where the problems are if any, and the decides the next course of action to take. This can range from just medication, or stents (blown up wire cages to open up the blood vessels) or major surgery for a by-pass. I would say that your MIL is in the early stages of finding out what's wrong, they obviously called you back to take her home as soon as they got the all-clear from the blood tests, mainly because there were no beds available, otherwise they would have waited until the following day, trust me, you've not been messed around, and they don't have a magic ball that will confirm what the problem is. If it is Angina, it could be caused by any 1 or 2 (or more) blood vessels being narrowed, putting a strain on the heart. It could be serrious, it could also not be. Just next time,(and there will probably be a next time!) 999 and get the Ambo there, don't think that "you don't want to bother them" Best regards to your MIL (& yourself)

After having their 11th child, an Irish couple decided that that was enough, as they couldn’t afford a larger bed. So the husband went to his doctor and told him that he and his wife didn't want to have any more children. The doctor told him there was a procedure called a vasectomy that would fix the problem but it was expensive. A less costly alternative was to go home, get a large firecracker, light it, put it in a beer can, then hold the can up to his ear and count to 10. The husband said to the doctor, 'B'Jayzus, I may not be the smartest guy in the world, but I don't see how putting a firework in a beer can next to my ear is going to help me with my problem.' 'Trust me, it will do the job', said the doctor. So the man went home, lit a cracker and put it in a beer can. He held the can up to his ear and began to count: '1, 2, 3, 4, 5,'at which point he paused, placed the beer can between his legs so he could continue counting on his other hand.

If you look on the NW website, there's an article on how to change wheel bearings. Also remember that when putting it all back together, you need to tighten up the nut as Mr Haynes says to 288 - 332 lbs" or * until your eyes bleed* A good guide is that when the square has snapped off your ½" drive tommy bar, you're still not tight enough!!

I daren't comment on this thread too much, but I'd been with the RAC for 25 years, and had no intention of changing, especially after seeing the performance of the other major company that come first in the alphabet. I changed to the recovery offered by roadsure after trying to get a decent deal from anyone for European cover in the Landrover this year. I now have full cover, at the road, recovery to wherever, hotels if need-be, etc. etc plus European cover, for ANY vehicle that I'm driving, for £46. not had to use it, but I'm sure that it'll beat a 3 hour wait, (which a certain recovery service was giving as an ETA tonight!!!)

The redtop is similar to a well setup Pinto. When I had the 2ltr Pinto in, I got;............................. ex-fuel injected head & cam, 32/36 weber, usual around 28 mpg, best I ever got was 41 mpg during the fuel crisis when i didn't even breath on the loud pedal, and coasted down all the hills! Same engine, FR32 cam, Twin weber 40's, rolling roaded. 18 mpg and that was being carefull!!!! Threw the 40's straight onto ebay, and fitted a 38DGAS, normal tank to tank around 28 mpg, 32 on a run. (this is what I get now out of the redtop with twin 45's)

Similar to above, I have Smiths speedo and rev counter, with VDO for the others, no problems. I don't trust magnets, optical pick ups etc, I like electricky type pulses please.

No problem then! throw it away and get a proper one!

Make and weld a baffle in, and get the correct gasket.

Well I've got to agree with Robin, BMW's are so "last season" either that or the plonkers have had a pay rise and gone out and bought Audi's, but Audi drivers are so much more agressive and rude now-a-days. As for the others, (If we need to pigeon-hole them) Young people with Corsa's, or Clio's will often turn them upside down. Divvy women will get side-swipped with HGV's because they like to drive alongside them, but not actually pass them. Any French car will break down if theres a *Y* in the day. Cars with Fuel computors will make their drivers use their brains next time, by running out of fuel when the computer says they still have 21 miles left in the tank. All salesmen. As they believe that no-one else should be on the road to impead their way. and the ones that I hate;.........anyone who doesn't have recovery! (2nd thoughts, I do enjoy it when I hear them gasp when told their vehicle will be removed, and they'll only get it back after paying a costly sum,......... serves them right!!)

Well it's time someone got out there to fix them! 'cause they're breaking faster than they're getting fixed up our end! If you're ever up our way, ask any of the techie guys if I'm in (they all know me........infamous!) , and come and say hello.

Obviously Chinese driving licences are also cheap! OOPS!

Hey up! please read it again!! I DIDN'T give a price!! And it would need some surcharges adding to it for the Water fairies!

Some mother do 'ave 'um! Ah well, that's it then, you're going to be cold, cut, dirty and generally pee'd off in various amounts over the winter. BUT not to worry, there's lots of us on here that can help you out when it comes down to it. What you need to do, is go and look at the "identification" page of my website to find out just which model you've got. It's obviously a monocoque, and if it's stripped down as far as you say, there are a few modifications that you really must do before putting the engine & box etc back into it. The monocoques have certain "weaknesses" built in. ALL the suspension mountings need work to make them stronger, the inner corners of the engine bay will be cracked, these will need welding up and strengthening. also, be very aware that some of our members are only conversant with "2B" type Robin Hoods (ie, tubular chassis) they don't know that life existed before the SVA etc. So any advice about chassis/body stuff, will be completely wrong. Oh, PS.............Good luck!

Toy 1. is what mines called.

All the above are good information, yes, your clutch will be stuck on next spring if you don't at least move it up and down your driveway a few times, possibly your brakes as well if you leave the handbrake on. but something I must stress to everyone, even if you're still going to use it;....... Check your antifreeze mixture NOW! or you could suffer blown out coreplugs or even cracked blocks/heads etc are not unknown, when the temparature falls below -4ºC Another good tip is to spray WD40 on all the electrical connections you can see, plus the HEADLIGHT SHELLS (stop 'em rusting). Maybe even slicone engine "tart up" spray over everything under the bonnet. Believe me, dampness WILL make things rust over winter, even when in a garage.

You do need to get some prices for stuff, as they vary a lot, an oil filter for the Hood is approx £3, one for the Honda is £15, same with the oil, you could put cheapo supermarket stuff in for £6, and top of the range fully synthetic for £30. If I was doing a "service" with nothing else reported, I would change oil & filter. If at this time of year, I would also change fuel filter (possible build up of water) Now check air filter (These can be expensive) Check all fluids, ie. Brake, clutch, g/box, diff (if rwd) anifreeze (you need a strength tester) Check fan belt, any reasonable wear / cracking.... change it! Check all cables, H/Brake. Throttle, Choke (if fitted) & lubricate pivots. Check all wheel bearings for noise/play, ball joints, brake pads (also push them back in towards the piston, then watch them move back outwards when pedal pressed) Remove rear brake drum (If fitted) if possible, clean out, check shoe material, self adjusting (they often don't) refite with new grease in bearing. Check all tyres for cuts/faults etc. check pressures. If any signs of irregular wear, check tracking. Check for any leaks, anywhere, report them to owner before rectifying unless only tightening up required. Oil all door hinges, check straps etc. Check pedal rubbers. Lights & builbs etc. quick spray of WD40 onto plugs & contacts in engine bay. You could always say... "cost of parts & XX pounds" then make sure you have receipts.

Granny knows everything!!

The way to check to see if there major damage to the internal parts of the engine is with a compression test. but a removal and inspection of the carbs would be a good idea. (as would dumping them and putting a 38 DGAS or 36 DGVA back on!!)

go and read *HERE* If you still aren't sure, then we need to know the date of registration on the log book etc.

Whilst listening to Nigels post, and that of yourself, I'll go back to somewhere in one of my posts, where I said that it's not the police officers fault, but that of the DVLA. It's not VOSA's fault, and it's not trhe SVA's fault either. Do not sit back and wait for the Good Fairy to make it all better again, sorry, but she's been made redundant! But write your letter explaining politely what has happened etc. Use FACTS, list them. If they still wish to take you to court over the MOT, then go there to win, DO NOT ROLL OVER on this, it's certainly NOT YOUR FAULT! Jim