harvs

Hi

I've noticed that grease has been flung out of one of my rubber boots where the fixing has come undone a little.

Just wondered how much grease I need to put back in the boot. Should this be 'a little', 'fully packed' or somewhere in between?

Cheers

James

I had an MGF for several years and really enjoyed driving it. In fact, it was the fun I had in the MGF with the rear wheel drive which made me think about getting a kit car! As other have said, watch out for HGF - I had it go twice. The chassis also flexes quite a bit going round uneven corners. But other than that an absolutely fabulous car. Hope you enjoy it

Cheers Dan. I had another go tonight with a bigger lump hammer, and got it moving

However, as with everything Robin Hood, it's on to the next problem !......

The through bolt won't come out as the chassis is in the way:

I really don't want to take off half the back end of the car, so I'm thinking about cutting the bolt and tapping the remaining bit back in a little which should free the diff. The obviously problem with this is that I won't be about to fit another bolt in when re-fitting.

Would this be an issue? It's obviously a structural bolt, but there are 4 other bolts holding the diff in.

Maybe I could try using a threaded bar as the bolt looks to only just interfere with the chassis and a threaded bar with no head may just fit.

Does anyone have any other ideas?

Many thanks

James

Hi

I'm trying to take out the diff. I've got all the bolts out apart from the top through bolt. The bottom one came out with the use of a large hammer and a lot of swearing! But the top one doesn't seem to be moving - used WD40 and a big hammer again. I've been bashing it so hard that the thread won't be usable again anyway.

Any tips please?!

Cheers

James

Between my air intake and filter I'm using my wife's Tupperware mug from when she was in Guides - it's still got her name tag on it

Got my Aldi welder yesterday - many thanks for the info!

Just need to wait until my birthday until I can open it

Hi. Yep - I got build up insurance from Footman James

+1 for ubuntu. I've been using ubuntu for a few years now after getting tired of windows always updating or virus scanning etc. I'm more than happy with it and use it 100% of the time (no longer have a copy of windows). Boot time (pressing the on switch to surfing the net) is 30 seconds

Doe`s the SVA require you to have the gear numbers labeled on top of the gear knob?

Nope - just need to make sure it doesn't have anything sharp on it eg Allen key heads need to be covered

Hi Justin

Great - another excuse to go for a drive & a chat! The Three Nuns looks like a good pub . See you there...

What's green, hairy and moves up and down?

A gooseberry in a lift

Hi Nigel - many thanks for your comments

I did a thorough inspection last week to check everything was properly bolted down, especially the prop shaft and gearbox mounts etc.

I'm pretty confident that it must be the prop shaft now. Having run it without wheels and hubs and one side at a time must rule out the wheels and drive shafts.

Also, what I did notice is that part of the rubber cover which fits over the spline joint in the prop had perished and created a hole - though which the lubricant had been flung out (evidence all over the tunnel sides!). I did a temporary fix and taped up the hole and re-greased it. On driving it this weekend, I think the vibrations were reduced.

I tried driving a bit quicker on the motorway - 75 ish on speedo (actually only 70 on satnav) and it's pretty smooth.

So I'll definitely be taking off the prop and replacing it.

Cheers

James

Hi

Think I'll come along too, with the rest of the family in the tin top. I'm originally from Barnsley, so know Cannon Hall pretty well.

Hopefully see you there!

James

Hi Nigel

Yes - it happens whichever gear I'm in, and in neutral. Both increasing speed and decreasing speed.

It would probably be easier to live with if it was at a different speed. Cruising along on the motorway at 70 isn't much fun. At 80 it's much better, but obviously not ideal!

Glad the diff is supposed to get hot!

Thanks

Harvs

Update....

The vibrations are staring to annoy me now, so I've been living with them be generally keeping at 60mph ish. I've done some further tests tonight - running in the garage on axle stands with the wheels and hubs off. I've wedged each side so that only one side is running. The vibrations kick in with either side locked. So I think it must be the prop shaft or diff causing it.

I'll look to take off the prop in winter time and get it balanced or get a new one.

But I did notice that the diff was pretty warm / hot. I'd run for <10mins, although I did have it over 100mph a few times.

Is it normal for the diff to heat up like this? (I've checked that it has oil in it!)

Mower man - I like the sound of your idea. If it didn't take me all evening to remove the gear stick each time I needed to access the prop shaft, then I might have tried it!

Cheers

Harvs

Hi Harvs i take it that your using the thermal switch in the bottom of your rad to switch on fan to test switch put multi meter on continuity if it bleeps when cold it is faulty if it doe,s not bleep when cold then thermal switch is ok. fault is somewhere else It should be normaly open circuit and then become closed circuit at about 90 deg im am wiring mine up at the moment as you know iv put an alloy hose joint in with thermal switch into top hose to switch fan on if you email me your address i can post you thermal switch out of my radiator till you get it sorted Dave D

Thanks for the offer Dave, but I've got it sorted. After buying the thermostat to go in the top hose, I took off the nose to remove the wiring from the thermostat in the rad, only to discover that the connectors had moved slightly and were short circuiting. I've re-fitted them and added some sealant to stop it happening again. Easy fix!

trying to think which car they are from TR5/6?

The email listing has them as coming from a Reliant Scimitar. A bit more searching and they look to be from a Scimitar GTE SE5 series. Maybe something like this one or this.

This (pic attached) might help with some wiring

 

 

or this site all things Smiths

Fantastic, just the job. The Smiths link has got some really interesting stuff on - thanks!

I've been wanting some new gauges for a while now. I've been interested in the ETB gauges, but the increase to £250 for the '7' 5 gauge set made me look to see if there's anything a little cheaper.

So, after some 'research' on ebay, got a set of smiths gauges for £30 + postage. Got the speedo, rev, temp, oil pressure, fuel and volts.

Some of the bezels look as though they need some attention, but a respray in something like satin black should freshen them up.

No doubt I'll be along again (maybe winter...!) asking how to wire them up!

Thought I'd post in case this is useful for anyone else wanting to save a few pennies!

Cheers

Harvs

Hi Dave

You can just cut the multiplugs off, and insulate the wires not needed.(They don't plug into each other)

If you PM me your email address I'll send on a copy of the 6 pager - definitely needed if you want to wire it up without too many headaches!

Cheers

Harvs

Hi Dave

Issue 5 was the latest one, I believe. But there was an A4 supplement with 6 pages of updates / corrections to the main diagram. Have you got this? If not, I'll try and copy it for you.

Actually, not many of the wires are used from the engine multi plugs. From memory, instrument gauges (temp, oil pressure, alternator warning, rev counter) and ignition switch.

I don't think the white wire on the loom is used.

As to where the wires go the other way (ie back to the engine), I bought a Rover 800 Haynes manual which has the wiring diagrams. Not all that helpful, but was useful a couple of times. The manual also includes some info on the T-series engine which is a little interesting...

Hope this helps

Harvs

Excellent info, thanks Steve

Yep - good to meet you at smallways too. Hope to meet again soon (when I get some more passes out!)

Great, thanks Steve

Given it failed after not much use, and if you've had problems too, I guess it makes sense to replace it with something different. Your link's given me some ideas, and after a bit of searching, I've come up with a couple of additional options...

Car Builder Solutions

ebay

So the ebay one at £10 is the cheapest. Think I'll give this a go....

Have you got your 'probe in the top pipe'? - what temp do you have it set at??

Cheers

Harvs (/James)

Hi

I've got my fan wired through the thermostat in the superspec radiator. It's previously been working fine, but now the fan stays on all the time (ie even when cold) - so suspect I need a new thermostat.

Does anyone know what make it is or where it's from?

Cheers

Harvs

Smallways was my first proper RH run out! I've thoroughly enjoyed the weekend. Thanks to everyone for making me feel so welcome. Good beer, good food and lots of driving. Need to get to work on getting more passes out!

I think most specialist insurance companies give a discount for being a member. I've been with Footman James and 2gether insurance - both of which gave a discount for being a RHOCAR member.