Bob Tucker

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/fordfomocomotorcraft-vv-carbcarburettor-servicegasket-kit

that should be fine.

mark the TDC on the crank pulley. Set the strobe to 37 degrees and then rev  the engine to 3500 (point of maximum advance)

It should match, if not adjust the dizzy. Once thats done, set the strobe to 14 degrees & check tickover. Again it should match,

if not speak to Aldon & see if they can help modifying your dizzy/ecu

This will help..

http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/

The FR 32 is a very good cam as a first start to tuning the pinto. I ran one in a standard engine, then over time I added a large inlet valve head, then twin 40s.

The cam ran well in all these configurations. Although the spec does say from 2500 rpm, thats when it starts pulling really well, but It still has plenty of torque from 2000 upwards.

The cam itself wont cause overheating. I'd look at checking cam timing, ignition timing, thermostat installed right way round, no air locks in the cooling system.

To get the best from the cam you need a modified dizzy. The cam needs more advance at tickover, without altering the maximum advance, a standard dizzy will result in a lumpy tickover.

I have a similar setup on my 2B. Im rebuilding the engine right now, but I'd be happy to take a run down there

from Orpington once its finished & we all get out of jail free.

These will help....but may also cause headaches....you will need details of the master cylinder.

A google search will throw up lots of info such as...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/

https://www.joesracing.com/master-cylinder-math/

Hope it helps.

Hi Neil, follow the adjustment lever down towards the bolt, just above the lever there is a "bracket" spotwelded to the column.

It has a slot in it that is fully extended towards the driver. Loosen the lever & push hard on the steering wheel towards the dash.

Just J-J-J-Jiggle it!

I take it back.....they only have the white primer, not the ALLCOAT.

Screwfix have plenty in every store near me. Have you checked you local screwfix stores?

Big thumbs up for it BTW

A couple of tips...if you have a compressor, feed loads of string into the entry hole. Block off all holes but the one you want the wire to exit, then use a big blast of air to send it down the tube.

Or use plastic strap from packages to feed down the tube.

Pretty little red Corvette....Prince....Obviously!

If you can clean it right up, i've had very good results in similar situations with JB Weld

You can get weber rebuid kits here...

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/?s=34ich&post_type=product

I dont recognise the Ford reference

Hi Peter,

I remember seeing RHE showing a chassis like this at one of the shows many years ago.

IIRC it was their version of a Locost chassis, but I dont think it went into full production.

Hi Richard, long time no see.

Keep an eye on your rubber engine mounts. They look like jaguar ones,? I had 2 where the threaded insert tore out of the rubber. I settled for land rover ones instead that have been fine.

Be aware that these are solid disks not vented.

Ive used CBS often, the guys have always been very helpful. 

Give them a call

Double check the length of the dipstick tube. I don't have a pinto so I can't give the correct length, but other pinto owners can provide their measurements. Some have found tubes have been "helpfully" shortened incorrectly.

Hi Neil,

NGK plugs 10/10, Champion plugs 2/10, "fancy" plugs 1/10.

What did you do to the injectors? Did you have to change any?

11ft lbs

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Info_sheets/TORQUE_SETTINGS/2-0L%20XE%2016V.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiGtbXV9YLhAhUzpHEKHQq-CK4QFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2gwFZ4lDxpIBmWgzhCNZQI

Hope the link works

I think SBD quote 8ftlbs but not sure, I think you can find it on their website. I used their figure, left it a day so the goo went off, then added a "touch". Still 100,% oiltight after 12k miles .

Hi Kevin, Ive tried just about every type possible.....none worked well.

IIRC you have a baffled sump with a horizontal baffle plate like mine (SBD)?

If thats right you dont need the windage plate.....leave it out.

Just use a single cork gasket  (not one with the washers) with WYNNS gasket maker from ECP for a drip free garage floor.

BUT make sure the bolts dont bottom out before they tighten up on the gasket.

HTH Bob

Hi Kev,

you have posted your thread in a RHOCAR members only area.

You are missing out on a wealth of experience from past members and non-members, who cant post there.

Better to post in the open parts of the forum for any further queries.

HTH Bob

See you all there.

Ray has got the Corvette booked in.......

as its a non MSA event he can take passengers....

I wouldny worry too much about exact measurements for height at the front.

The important thing is to make sure you have adequate sump clearance, esp. with a pinto as the sump can hang really low.

This may also help...
http://westfield-world.com/suspension.html

You should make the upper wishbone ball joint adjustable.

Most use a transit drag link. Either thread the w/b to take the threaded part, but that

means you can only adjust by one thread turn at a time, which has been OK for me,

or use a close fitting tube, and fit a lock nut on either side. I'll look for piccies to explain further

HTH

PS when designing the upper wishbone, be aware that the dummy strut sits at a considerable -ve camber angle. Set the tube taking the transit ball joint at 90 degrees to it otherwise when the suspension drops it will  jam the ball joint at full movement putting a huge strain on it.

PPS an Astra bottom ball joint is an easy fit with 3 bolts to attach it to the w/b & the same taper as the Sierra hub