theduck

This thread is 5 years old...

Finish 2017's winter mods 

if it works, no reason not to use it.

@DeanRudkin and @Matt brown did turbo conversions on their 2.0 zetecs, process and costs would be similar. 

There are rumours every year that the next stoneleigh is the last one. Issue is that the show has become a show owners, rather than the public and the stoneleigh model doesn’t support that. H

It comes down to what is easier for you to do, the engine swap or making the car nicer.  For me it would be the engine swap.

Wasnt questioning why remove a pinto, I totally get that.  Though you can get 200bhp for under a grand if you do it right!  NA tuning of a pinto is a mugs game and that is the only option are considering when they say it will costs thousands for very little power.  You can efi convert and turbocharge a pinto for well under a grand if you are careful, and easily for less than cost of bike carbs and an FR32 which seems to be the defacto tuning recommendations for a pinto these days.  For the kind of money some people spend on getting 160bhp NA on a pinto I have at least 275bhp from my pinto!  I say at least because we had wheel spin on the dyno and so couldnt get an accurate final figure for the low boost setup.  High boost will be significantly more.

Anyway I am waffling on about pintos, what I really meant was why must it be an MK rather than one of the many other seven type kits? and why a duratec rather than a decent spec zetec?  You could find a decent zetec powered car GBS Zero, Tiger, MK, Locost, MNR, etc much easier than just looking for a Duratec MK which is likely to be very rare.

As for St170, which for clarity is actually a zetec event if it says duratec on the cover, it is a great option if swapping out an older engine, though imo you should spend the bit more and go for bike throttle bodies with fuel injection over the bike carbs.

From memory it was the rods that I was always led to believe were the weak point.  They can be prone to big end bearings going too, which iirc is because they are sensitive to oil levels in the sump and also can have issues with the oil pressure  relief valve

Am surprised to hear that Dan, everything else I have read suggests over 200 on the standard bottom end is a ticking bomb!

Duratec needs a different gearbox to the St170/Zetec/Pinto.  Duratec may be newer than zetec, but they are a lot more hassle to fit.  They are simple enough to get to about 200, but above that they need uprated bottom end.

A car setup with a 1.8 zetec already would be a reasonably straight forward swap to an st170, but then the st170 has VVT and needs a suitable ecu, so you would need to confirm that the one in there is suitable or be willing to swap ecu.

Is there any particular reason you are set on an MK and a Duratec?
 

Cars for sale are included with all other items for sale.  There is a general search function for the site which you can limit to search specific areas of the forum, however the first page of the for sale section is currently showing all posts with activity as recently as 02nd May, so quite quick to browse through the items likely to be currently available.  As for cars, from the items on the first page these would appear to still be available:
 

A-plan and 2gether have always been the most competitive for me. 

Worlds your oyster if changing engine. Zetec would probably be most straight forward though others will be able to advise better as I was stubborn and decided to see how much I could squeeze out of the pinto instead. 

Naturally aspirated will cost a small fortune and be horrible to drive on the road. However, you can get very close to 200bhp on a stock pinto with a turbo conversion and Efi, which is fun if you want to do something a bit different and have the ability or access to someone with the ability to make the bits you will need, but could become expensive if you are having to pay people to make custom parts.

205 block tend to sell for a decent price too, so other option is buy the car, sell the pinto and put that money to something else. 

Gbs one has fram part number ph5713 and is 74mm tall, 76mm diameter

other options include

fram ph2874 which is very short just 58mm, 78mm diameter 

fram ph5660 74mm high, 80mm diameter 

Fram website is good for comparing options https://www.sogefifilterdivision.com/catalogues/FO/scripts/cat_rech_forme.php?zone=UK&catalogue=FRAM&lang=GB&famille=L&forme=V&figure=301&listetri1=taraudage&listetri2=hauteur

38dgas would be overkill on that setup imo.  A well setup 32/36 should be fine.  FR32 is a very mild cam, shouldnt be a massive difference to the Fr30 you had in, slightly different power band but thats about it.

I'm thinking ignition timing is the issue. Have you got a timing light?  Worth checking what the timing at idle with the vacuum pipe removed from the dizzy is.  Should be 8-10 degrees.

unusual to blow a relay.  Would be looking for a short if it was mine.

what carbs are you using?  it doesnt sound like it is a million miles away from where it should be with an FR32 cam and assuming a standard injection head.

What did it make on the old head and cam?

How does it feel to drive compared to the old setup?

2 hours ago, RedTrev said:

Where from Dan? I have R1-R’s, I got them from Oponeo but can’t find them anywhere online now. Discontinued maybe

Not discountinued, but not currently available in europe due to poor fuel efficiency rating, a lot of similar tyres have been affected

Either way, you will need a new ecu to correctly control the VVT correctly.  Both engines have continuously variable VVT, rather than a simple on or off style VVT.  This means you need an ECU with a PWM output that can be configured for VVT, unfortunately the MS2 does not have that.

EDIT TO ADD:  You could have your ecu upgraded to MS3 spec, which does have a PWM output that can be configured for VVT.  I would recommend speaking to whoever you intend to map the car though and go with their recommended solution.  

Has the carb got a fuel cut off valve? Will look like a spade terminal and needs 12v

Bigg Bros are in Malton and generally come highly recommended.

Some detaila of our regional meets here 

Also, I forgot when i I replied before, but Tiger dont own the rights to the Cat E1 anymore, they belong to http://www.southwaysautomotive.co.uk so they will be a better contact than Tiger for specific spares.

If I remember correctly the Cat E1 used a sierra donor, so unless brakes have been change to aftermarket parts, sierra parts will fit. 

Suspension will be specific to the Cat E1 you could go to tiger themselves - https://www.tigerracing.com/  or you could go to someone like procomp - http://www.procomp.co.uk/ - who are highly regarded for all suspension related matters on sevens.

1 hour ago, Paul redfern said:

Can any one help me were can I  buy spares for a tiger cat e1 please

Hi Paul, you will get more help starting a new post rather than replying to one about a different topic. You might also want to provide more details, such as what parts etc you require.