brumster

In for a penny, in for a pound - Jag V8 and a sequential Tractive, please

Mmmmm sounds nice already!

Would it not be easier/better to just go V8 instead? Not massively up on my vee engines but isn't something like the Rover going to be lighter weight and have more readily available aftermarket bits for it? Might not give you more power than the 2.9 V6 but will give you all the noise you need, and enough grunt to punt along at a nice rate

My initial thought was keep the old shafts (since they have the correct length and outer - hub - fitment) and just swap the inner CVs for new ones; but obviously, as you point out, I wasn't overly hopeful that all the parts are interchangeable. That site linked above talks about lots of differing shaft thicknesses so I figure that's unlikely to work. And I doubt the tripod bearings are the perfect fit into the CV cups between the two (now that would be lucky!). The splines on the end of the actual middle shaft (that the tripod bearing assemblies fit onto) - are they always the same spec as the splines on the actual CV stub? I appreciate the shaft diameter can change, but is the spline count something I don't have to worry about... Waiting for a call back from my man on the shafts.... I can see some hassle coming my way scouring ebay for lobro's!

Aye, looks like it, doesn't it.... oh well! Just realised there is another option, which is to make up a hybrid of the Lobro inner with the push-in outers, but I think getting the right overall length might be an interesting challenge when buying off ebay :-S

Aye, will ring up my chappy tomorrow and see what the deal is with the shafts. Does anyone know how the later model Sierras took up the extra 30 or so mm on the longer shafts? Does anyone have any to hand that they can measure the splined ends and/or the compressed/extended lengths so I can compare with my early shafts? I'm just wondering whether I need to worry about the 30mm or if, for example, 15mm of it was just on the diff end and 15mm at the other end, and the actual shaft length was pretty much equivalent between the inner CV and outer CV. Or, worst case, maybe I just need to swap the outer hub carriers to match. If the new shafts are not that expensive I might just suck-it-and-see. Cheers, Dan

No, the diff casing is the same external size, the 6.5/7" diffs actually measure just under 7" across the casing. So the new diff has dropped straight into the subframe (it's an Exmo). I'll get the driveshafts ordered tomorrow. I hope the additional length isn't something to worry about. Otherwise maybe I'll have to transplant the new inner CVs onto the old shafts, but I seriously doubt the tripod bearings will be the same size so that may not be possible. Snapperpaul - "the setting up of a diff is not easy" - can you qualify that a little? Do you mean shimming it up? What's not easy!?

That's my other option (if all the dimensions are the same?) - the Haynes doesn't detail stripping the diff down, but is there anything awkward about it? I presume it's just remove the two lock stops on the side, remove the lugged ring and then the bearings come out, allowing removal of the gear assembly complete so I can swap them over? Would rather not go that route unless someone can advise they're definately the same - I have read on t'interweb that the 6.5 and 7" diffs are otherwise identical apart from the crown wheel size...?

Yup, positive, just measured it. 6.5" diameter crown wheel. Either way, it's not an issue with the diameter - it's the inner driveshaft splines that are the problem. Just want to make sure the length on the later shafts won't cause me a problem.

Question for you. I've sourced a 3.92 tripoid diff to swap out my 3.62 tripoid but the old 3.62 is the earlier 6.5" diff with the smaller shafts (early drum braked model Sierra). My understanding is the larger 3.62 shafts (26 spline as opposed to 23) are 30mm+ longer, so while the obvious option is to just source some appropriate shafts, will this additional length cause a problem or do they compress up to the equivalent old length, or is the additional length in the splines and so no issue with the length between gearbox and hub flange? I don't want to drop the drum brakes, of course. The other longer-winded option would I guess be to swap the crown wheel and pinion over into my old diff but that's going to be a right ballache! Just wanted to check I'm not going to have plunge issues if I just source the later driveshafts to match the new diff and "throw 'em in".... Cheers, Dan

I can see some problems here in my competition car; the mile recording is part of the trip meter and is regularly reset :-S But it doesn't seem like there's any legal implications if the mileage changes, it would obviously flag up on the certificates and any potential buyer would be made aware of it (but I'm sure they'd appreciate the reason when they're buying a competition vehicle).

I guess there's nothing technically bad about it - flow isn't going to be a problem, and safety-wise I can't really see a problem because the pump is never going to be running when you've got the filler cap off. I would just ensure the flow into the filler neck is as near the bottom as you can get it and, if possible, pointing downwards...

You could try Simpson (www.simpsonraceexhausts.com) but call them and see what they can do for you. I have one of their silencers on the rally car and it is top quality - still looking as good as new and hasn't needed repacking since I put it on, best part of 3 years now and still keeping the car down in the high 80's dB-wise (mind you that's a twin box setup).

No, true, they're 5 seat only. If you're feeling really flush, they did a 5.7 V8 before it got dropped in the UK after a few years Ours is over 7 years old now and bar regular servicing has only cost 1 set of tyres, 2 wheel speed sensors, an exhaust sensor and a new set of brake pads and front discs (it does tow a lot, so I don't begrudge it that).

Aye. While your health has to be priority, you've got to live a little, otherwise what's the point in living

Have you considered a Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD (post 05 - WK model)? Can be got very cheap these days (as with all 4x4s), well specced, Merc underpinnings are ultra-reliable and they pull like a train. Sophisticated 4x4 system. Built in Austria and well put-together. Downsides? Well, MPG is in the mid-20's (but then no-one buys a 4x4 for economy do they!?), interior design is a bit naff, and gearbox isn't the smartest on the block... but all things you can possibly live with. Neighbour had soooo many issues with his Disco (his new RR Sport a little better) I vowed I'd never buy a LR again (and yes, I did used to own a Disco 1!)....

I must admit, reading the first post, I was just thinking what a tosser this specialist is and why you can't just change the seats - is his reasoning that all sitting down (to drive) is bad and that you cannot drive ever again? Or, fair does, the seat design you have is not a good one - but that is at least fixable. The Hood has the most comfortable driving position of any car I've owned - yes, seriously. I would just invest in a trip to somewhere like Demon Tweeks where you can sit and try all manner of seats (or maybe a show like Autosports in January) - find a seat design that your orthopedist recommends and that you get on with. Unless you really have some back condition that means simply sitting down and driving will cripple you for the rest of your life - in which case you have my heartfelt sympathy

Not happend to me yet - you're bright and shiny and, failing that, I suspect they'll always hear you Dunno, I have no weather gear I can't - hence why I'd say (faux)leather seats are a bonus Well, touch wood, ever since I ditched the Pinto and moved to a modern injected lump it just starts, drives and is fuss-free. That's it, I've jinxed it now

Dave Andrew's site has all the necessaries - I'm not going to put it in detail but basically... 1) Set ignition advance at base load sites to ~15 degrees (+/- 5) 2) Wind in all the balance screws on the bodies and set the left/right butterfly gaps by eye 3) Set up some basic, low fueling on those load sites 4) Crank, attempt to start, up fuelling as necessary until it runs 5) Get up to temp, re-adjust 6) Balance bodies with a synchrometer or "by hand" 7) Extrapolate the rest of the fuel maps and tune with a wide-band http://www.dvapower.com/ems in particular, this bit might help you the most.... http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/ems/#mapping There is a bit more to it than just the above, but I'm not going to just repeat what Dave's wrote

Cool, thanks guys. Probably a good point about the mild steel.

I've seen/read reports that wrapping like this fatigues the manifold earlier; anyone any experience around this? I'm talking purely of what I've read on t'internet (and I appreciate how dangerous that can be!). Personally, never bothered with wrapping myself, but appreciate it certainly gets warm under there

Take a communial bog roll too, just in case.... ;-)

Further to Steve's post, has your tank got a breather pipe on it? If not, that is bad. Assuming it has, it should have a one-way valve in it that allows air in freely, but not out (or, if it's a nice one like we use in motorsport, it allows pressure out once it reaches a certain pressure difference - more for safety really - and closes if inverted so fuel doesn't spill out everwhere!). If you have got a valve, check it's on the right way round (you can do this by simple blowing/sucking through it - but detach it first lest you want to be sucking in fuel vapour!). I'd consider a second high pressure fuel filter anyway, even though you've got one in the low pressure circuit. The low-pressure transparent ones are excellent to verify that you're getting fuel flow, and see the state of the filter/dirt presence.

Without knowing your car, I'd have to make some assumptions... 1) You've got a low pressure pump taking off the tank, through a filter, and filling a swirl pot (probably up front somewhere I'm guessing). There's a return line from the swirl pot back to the tank to dump back any excess fuel. 2) You've got a high pressure pump taking from the swirl pot, through another suitable high-pressure filter, to the fuel rail, via regulator then back to the swirl pot. Which pump is sounding laboured, I assume the high pressure one, which begs the question how has any dirt found it's way through the filter in the low pressure circuit. If the filters are the kind that can be disassembled, strip then down and check for dirt. Make note of positioning of filter when you take it apart, and ensure you put it back together and that you put the same fitting back onto the same hose (ie. don't turn it around in the process!). I'd have thought it would have to be some fairly major dirt buildup to make a pump sound so obviously laboured - it sounds more likely that maybe the regulator, filter or return back is in some way affected and the pump is having a hard time pushing against it - outside it's specification. Be careful not to run the pump hot, if it is being laboured, you could knacker it up - especially if it's actually running dry due to some serious blockage. If you can at least isolate which circuit the problem is in (low pressure or high pressure). If it has found it's way into the high pressure circuit past the filter, then realistically I'd want to be stripping down the fuel rail and checking the injectors - but focus on the state of the filter first, and let's take it from there.

Well that was a pleasant day congrats on booking the weather! Car of the Show for me (excluding the Hoodies) was the V12 Jag E-type, I think.