brumster

I don't have specific experience with the bike bodies/regulators. But, on bodies like Jenveys and typical malpassi-style fuel pressure regulators, I know most people don't bother, just blocking it off with some bent hose. If you do connect to multiple bodies, make sure you put non-return valves in as I believe the pressure will be positive and negative on different bodies at different stages in the engine cycle, causing issues with balance and not accurately operating the regulator diaphragm. But, as said, I believe the effect of air pressure on the fuel regulator is negligible in places like the UK... maybe someone with precise experience of these bodies can comment.

That's interesting - my type 9 is on the left hand side of the casing!?

I run a Fuchs GearSyn 75w90 semi-synthetic and, on my freshly built box, it feels very good. I hear cheap Comma or OE Ford oils are also a safe bet. Main thing is apparently to stear clear of thicker GL5 oils (despite what the Haynes manual says), EP80/EP90 stuff. It's a good point about the clutch cable - on the old Pinto, I had the same problem, the exhaust had fried the outer clutch cable and must have done a similar thing to all the lubrication or nylon sleeving inside. I've lagged it with heat reflective material now (not that the new engine exhausts on that side anyway).

It certainly sounds like the clutch is dragging; you could verify this by jacking up the rear wheels and putting it on stands, and seeing how much drive you're getting to the back end (a little drag is normal, mind). Otherwise could it be wrong type of gearbox oil; I hear type 9's are a bit fussy... ...but I would suspect the clutch first. Maybe a temporary measure of locking out the adjuster somehow so you can test the theory.

The short answer is, it depends on the map. I run 4 bar on another car that has been mapped to that pressure - but whether it's standard for a zetec (and whatever management you're running), I honestly don't know. Certainly 4 bar isn't a problem, per se. Is the regulator standard - I'm not au fait with Zetecs; is it part of the rail? edit: ^^ beat me to it; if the standard pressure is 2.5 or 3bar, then you're fuelling will be off (on the rich side) assuming the ECU map is for the lower pressure.

I assume this is no longer available from Ford? In which case, as a fallback if you can't source one second hand, Speedy Cables are not massively expensive and should be able to turn one around in a week or two to any spec you like...

I'd go for the intertia switch - you should be able to pick on up off any Rover K-Series powered car (Metro for example), they sat in the engine bay and are a little rubber-topped button to reset. In fact, I might have one kicking about if you want it - drop me a PM and I'll stick it in the post for you for the price of a beer and the postage... Any heavy impact trips the switch; if you wire it into the fuel pump relay (don't run the fuel pump current directly through it), bob is your mother's brother.

Pump-wise I use a Sytec one myself; a cheaper (~£70) on the 'Hood and a motorsport-spec one on another car of mine (where reliability is a bit more paramount). No issues with either. You could look out for a generic Bosch pump (off VW Golf's, I think), I've used one of these before with success.... until it got gummed up with 13-year old fuel :-S

We've just remortgaged anyway, but had the note from Santander all the same - couldn't give a stuff, we're off to a cheaper offering (tracker) with no lock-in's. Adios muchachos, Santander We used a financial advisor/services that specialises in re-mortgaging; my other half knows the proprietor from her days as a solicitor and so we trust him impeccably. Happy to provide his details if anyone wants them (just PM me); no vested interest and I'm not on commission

Oh cool, it still runs does it? I'll pop over and say hi provided it's not peeing down (no weather gear). Any of the faces from the mid/late 90's go? I'll apologise up front if I've forgotten your names. Where did old "Throbbin' Dobbin'" get to?

I'm not sure about the spline fitment on the '75 but I had 105speed make me up my shaft, completely custom to my spec. You could try them - they can only say no, I guess . £130 notes all in and cracking service - turned it around in no time, and not much more than it was going to cost me to have my existing shaft lengthened.

Here you go; suspect it's very similar - maybe the 1900 SDi Polo didn't use the take-off....

That looks very much like the 1.9 Polo diesel rad but with what presumably is an expansion/breather take-off on the top of the rad. I'll snap some pics of mine in a sec - fitted it this evening and its working a lot better than the old one.

I'd normally be up for it, but unfortunately not a good week for me, that one

Now that's interesting. On a completely unrelated issue, I just went searching for a radiator for the Exmo at the weekend. My friendly local motor factor searched through his catalogue for a rad with suitable dimensions, and came up with a Polo 1.9 diesel rad from the mid-90's (also fitted to Seat Alhambra, apparently). I'm going to be fitting it over the coming days in an effort to up the cooling capacity a little. Maybe it would suit the zero too?

We had an S2000 for a while. Beautiful car - one of the best cars we've owned, I think. Very solid, great driving position, beautiful gearbox, wonderful engine (tractable enough, but you can take it into the bonkers zone if you want), reliable when regularly serviced but i would look for dealer history on one. Handling OK but not the best in it's class; a bit 'vague' but maybe that was just ours... don't get me wrong, not dangerous in any way, but I wouldn't call it an out-and-out sports car. I miss it but that's what happens when the missus puts it into a ditch the day before we were selling it!

...and like the great Willy Nelson, it passed this morning and I'm... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TD_pSeNelU

Hurrumph, failed on a few minor points! 1) The usual Exmo issue of the rear Sierra springs flapping around in the breeze (now sorted with some lockwire!) 2) Front brake flexi's borderline on length; at full lock they were a bit stretched. Always been like this, but this tester picked up on it, so hey-ho - picked up some braided lines this avo and all fitted. Re-test tomorrow morning

That's unfortunate! I've got to pop into a dealer here soon, will see if I can get the details for you (part numbers) and prices. Worst case I'll get them for you and post them over.

Good luck! Enjoy the experience

You'll be well accustomed to 4 speeds then

I've only just re-joined the club myself The 4-speed is not actually that bad - the 5 speed in most guises has an incredibly short first gear which isn't much fun in a L7-type car. So I wouldn't worry too much about the 5-speeder. Even better is to find a Type 9 from the 2.8 V6 (taller first gear) that's had the input shaft swapped or machined down to fit. Or swap the internals completely for a new gearkit from BGH, and you can pick-and-choose your ratios then (more or less) ;-) In short, I'd try a 5-speeder first before you decide if it's a worthwhile swap from a 4... depends how you use your car really.

Assuming you stay on carbs, fairly straightforward I believe - I doubt there is much by way of external differences, except maybe a taller/larger carb arrangement, but nothing insurmountable. Injection is a different story

Looks tidy to me 1600 Pinto is, well, let's face it - it's not going to set the world on fire but it will provide enough turn of pace to start off with. Remember they're not heavy things! My Exmo started off with a rather wheezy 2.0 Pinto and it still managed 0-60 in ~7.0 seconds on a 4-speed box (if you trust the g-meter things of the time). Get the car, enjoy it a bit, drive it for a while, then you've always got the option of an engine upgrade later if you feel it necessary - even if it's a simple option of dropping a 2 litre Pinto straight in there (maybe tuned a wee tad)

Got mine tomorrow - first time since 1999 :-S fingers crossed (and a few other things as well!)....