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And also started on the plates to make the engine mounts using a broken 1.7 zetec se engine as a guide Finally, whole chassis was cleaned, primed and has had it's first top coat

Rear hubs were treated in the Deox C bath which stripped them of rust, then washed and primed then painted Final parts were welded to the chassis minus the engine mounts while I wait for an alloy bellhousing to be made to connect the puma engine to the type 9 box Meanwhile, I made the jigs for making the suspension wishbones

Gearbox was checked over and found to be near perfect inside with no wear so cleaned and painted Diff was stripped and casing bead blasted. I'll be fitting an LSD in here so stripped it right back and had to make some special tools to get it apart.

Fabricated the rear uprights. These will accept the sierra hubs and shafts and rear calipers.

Not got the pics on my phone of the finished bits but they are now ready to take moulds off.

Sorry about the delay in updating... As I plan on making every panel from carbon fibre I started with the steering column shroud. Started by blanking off the holes then body filler, sanding, high build primer, more sanding, gloss top coat and more flatting. 3

That looks neat. would be good to see the science to back it up. I will be fitting a cross brace behind the steering rack like they have on the new zero chassis. that should get rid of torsion across the front suspension area. Got to do that once the rack is fitted though to make sure it fits.

Interesting stuff there but my chassis is based on the newer roadster one and not the original Ron Champion chassis that had the torsion issues in Australia. I'm following the book for the most part, still undecided on the engine. I have narrowed down to three. New 2L blacktop zetec Used 1.7 VVT Zetec SE (puma) Used Saab B207 2L turbo

It's a total mess at the front, my mate has just stripped a puma. It was an old dairy on a farm. it's 60 foot by 20 foot and has an upstairs full of car parts too!!

Transmission tunnel next Today I made the steering column support Chassis now fully welded up, alternating sides as fast as possible to stop any heat distortion from the cooling welds. Managed 2mm distortion over the whole frame which is good enough for me seeing as most production cars are lucky to see 4mm! Chassis looks lost at the back of the garage!

The next day, jigs were made for aligning the front suspension mounts Rears done next, no need for jigs just careful, accurate measurements

Been busy on the chassis this last week although to the untrained eye it won't look like much. Made my suspension brackets. Sixteen of these needed making Meanwhile, the front hubs had been soaking in Bilt Hammer Deox C and were completely de-rusted. They were rinsed, de-greased, primed and painted

Yes. Built and sva'd with the redtop. This one is having a new zetec

What polo is the rad from? any links please? thanks

More chassis progress pics Top tip, don't brush a bare arm past a freshly welded joint

In the mean time, found a really cheap donor on ebay

After studying the book for a few weeks and familiarising myself with the chassis plans, reading up on the various forums; locost builders, roadster builders and haynes forum. I took the plunge and ordered the steel for the chassis. 6 lengths of 25x25x1.5mm ERW 3 lengths of 19x19x1.5mm ERW and three 19x1.5mm ERW tube Built a build table using 18mm phenolic resin ply (was free)

Hello again Some of the older members may remember me and my 2b Sold it nearly four years ago now and since getting married I've been allowed to start my new build. This time I'm going with a scratch built and doing a Haynes Roadster.

Those are awesome but you will need the proper crimp tool for them or you won't get the pins in the plug. I work with these every day, I'm an aircraft electrician, if you do buy them, you could send me the loom and i'll crimp the pins on for you and give you a few insert/extract tools. I'll be using these on my new haynes roadster build

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/handtools-storage-workwear/tool-storage-workbenches/workbenches/saw_horse/Stanley-Saw-Horse-Twin-Pack-1-92-038-11247882?skuId=11758587

thanks boys.

How are you doing it by only having a new engine and old gear boxes, diffs, uprights etc. I was under the impression you were only allowed one recon major component and everything else had to be brand new

How are you doing it by only having a new engine and old gear boxes, diffs, uprights etc. I was under the impression you were only allowed one recon major component and everything else had to be brand new

It really isn't worth turboing a c20xe. It is far cheaper and easier to fit a LET. It has stronger internals and is designed for the turbo. It would also cost you way more to try turboing the XE than just buying a decent LET

The first time I have been able to get to a meet in ages due to having a week off work.