steve in stockport

ron i think metros used to have something like that on them, but not 100% sure. TIFOSI do a purpose made 2" angled filler neck and cap for £45 plus p+p etc steve

brian as promised, finally got out to take the pictures and post them interior shot shows bolt going through tube in front of seat under car shot is of the subframe i made up last shot is all in situ the harnesses look fine hope these help steve

nigel the set up i'm running is very similar to the one you are showing only difference is i fed the return from the swirl pot into a T connection in the fuel line between the tank and low pressure filter. used a facet solid state road pump for the low pressure side, a myson air seperator from a plumbers for the swirl pot (copper pot with 4 connections, 0.25l capacity- over a miles worth of fuel at 28-30 mpg and only £ a vauxhall cavalier/calibra injection pump and filter cos it will lift fuel about 300mm rather than being gravity fed so allows a bit of scope for fitting. just over 600 miles so far with no surge or vaporisation problems - theres the kiss of death! steve

nick have you thought about using one of the rectangular extractor fan hose connectorshttp://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.js...=30631&id=18905 and some ducting to allow a remote filter. maybe you could cut it down to the right height and use foam/sponge to form a seal round the top of the carb steve ps you have pm b**ger that didnt work, but its in screw fix under ducting

hi all well as i'm working all weekend and there's naff all on tv on a friday night, decided to get wrapped up get the hood out and have a couple of hours gratuitous petrol wasting. absolutely brilliant, major roads, minor roads and finished off with a tour round manchester airport with youngest son, the noise going through the underpass at international arrivals was pretty impressive! anyway as the title says turn your tv off and get out there steve

hi peter if you get enough interest to get some made put me down for a pair please steve

phil did my sva without a screen, to cover the heater vents i used 2 pieces of half round wooden trim from b+q sanded the ends to make them nice and round and sprayed silver fixed from under the bonnet with a couple of small screws and flat washers through the vents. for rear view mirror i chopped the mounting on the donor mirror then put a 3 inch piece of tube between the 2 parts then drilled through the base and bolted on to the bonnet as near to the rear edge as poss still there now but have shortened the pipe so mirror now just gives me a view over the cross tube for the upper seatbelt mountings steve

bloke i made my dash fron 3mm plywood and a camping mat for padding. cut plywood to shape then glued some of the mat along the bottom edges overlapping about an inch on each side of the wood, then once this was stuck cover the whole dash in the foam mat overlapping it onto the rear of the wood, leave to dry then cover the whole lot in vinyl. use evo stick contact adhesive, its much better than the spray stuff with a double layer of the foam mat at the bottom edge you cant feel the edge of the timber and it satisfies the 6mm radius rule for the sva steve

brian, the tester never looked at the heads of the bolts just tried to rock the seats from above and looked at the lock nuts from under the car. the beam isnt notched as gone on top of the tunnel with the handbrake by the front cross beam i meant the round tube in the chassis that runs across both side of the floor pan in the cockpit area will take some pics and mail them to you steve

Brian i've got intatrim voyagers same as oddessy but low back. used 4 m8 high tensile bolts and penny washers on each seat, went through seat base then 1inch runners, through the floor and then through sub frame under the floor and finished off with nyloc nuts. the sub frame was an assembly i made that goes across the width of the car and bolts onto plates for the axle mounting and the centre crossmember in front of the seats, it also incorporated the inner seatbelt mountings. made from 1 inch angle iron except the main cross beam at the back which is 35mm angle iron. can get you some pics if you want steve

go to spares shop and get a clutch cable for a two wheel drive sierra cossie quinton hazell part no. qhc 1585, long enough to route it well away from the exhaust and correct end fittings so no mods required (thanks to ant b for telling me) costs about £12 steve

robin hood three prong thingy and a stainless pan scourer got my noise down to 92db for the sva, then blew it out on the way home. steve

john hammerite is for ferrous metals, steel and iron if you use it on alloy you need to use some sort of primer as well steve

have you used the correct inlet manifold gasket, there have been quite e few threads about people using the carb gasket with round holes instead of the injection item with pear shape holes having the same sort of problems steve

doc if the compensator is fitted at the right angle it shouldn't cause too many problems. it's job is to stop you locking your back brakes under heavy braking conditions, weight transfer to the front lightens the rear end, ball bearing in compensator moves forward to restrict pressure being applied to rear brakes. if you think your rears aren't up to scratch your problem could be anything from the brake adjusters not working properly(strip and maintain)rear wheel cylinders on the way out, mismatched brake linings- competition on the front standard on the rear, air in the system on the rear split, worn seals in master cylinder. if you're convinced its the compensator have a small pipe made up to replace it, bleed all the brakes, pressure bleeders are good to get it right first time. if that doesn't sort it out then you know your trouble is somewhere else in the brake system steve

alan i have the chopped injection system on my 2b and found that you have to rejoin the pieces offset so that it fits inside the bonnet rather than going for straight down the centre ie no. one cylinder pipe is reconnected as near to the outside edge of the chamber as poss and no. 4 cylinder pipe as near the inside edge as poss. hope that makes sense steve

Ben check out the build tips on the northwest hoodies website, details of the conversion are on there. also think you will need a few other parts as trailing arms are different( can be reworked to fit), drive shafts are different - fixed by 6 allen bolts at each end as opposed to splines. you may even need the diff if adaptors are not available but not sure. Steve

if its the black plastic locking cap for the sierra filler neck i've got one still packaged you can have for £1 to cover the postage pm me with your address if its any good to you steve

i'm just in the process of fitting wipers from a mk 1 nova, dead simple set up of remote motor similar to a mini one thin metal bar which can be cut drilled and rivited/screwed to the correct length that takes drive from motor to the nearside wiper spindle, then a second bar to join the spindles so they move in unison. will let you know how i get on but if successful this may be a good option if mini wipers are getting scarce as there must be loads of dead novas in scrapyards Steve

thanks fellas, had built up inspection yesterday and paid up for tax which was told would be here today or tomorrow but seen as postie has been and no tax or letter for number plates today will just have to be patient for another day built up inspection = 2 seconds to check chassis no.2 minutes checking paperwork,1 minute writing cheque and 15 minutes blaming trainee in manchester office for causing all delays and problems(see other threads) apparently if you live in the right area and get jean for your BUI she will do it pre SVA, without chassis no. and without the need to register straight away. i initially got the trainee who wanted the car SVAed so she could inspect, register and tax all in one go anyway jean sorted me out so thanks to her and i should be out for first legal drive tomorrow pm. steve

Daren drivers side blue and green is the earth return to the haedlamp relay for dip and main beam so you also need a seperate earth for the side lights on that side.think the black and red may be the sidelight power but not sure as mine is grey and red( 88 donor) passenger side black and grey is probably sidelight power and white loop from plug is for second bulb on main beam on donor twin headlight set so you can cut it out if just using single headlight/bulb setup steve

only nuts that are inaccessible once car is fully built need to be captive/welded. book states that seat belt bolts must be able to be undone without dismantling car or fittings so if you can get a spanner on them once car is complete they can be free. just need some sort of locking arrangement, usually nyloc nuts or you may get away with spring washers but not sure about those steve

if you want a cheap swirl pot go to a plumbers merchant and ask for a myson air seperator for a central heating system. this is a copper pot that will hold about a quarter of a litre of fuel- enough for about 1 mile on a car doing 28 mpg. it has 3 or 4 connections on according to who makes the one you get, i first ran a 3 connection pot as gravity feed under the tank with a vauxhall injection pump sucking from the pot and the return from the fuel rail regulator going back into the pot with no probs. have since changed the set up as i thought the swirl pot was vulnerable to getting hit from below, now have a 4 connection pot mounted on the rear of the seat back panel but now have to feed this with a second low pressure pump(facet solid state). the vauxhall pump still sucks from the pot to feed the engine with the return from the fuel rail the same as before, however to avoid over pressure and air locking the swirl pot the 4th connection is now used as a vent/ fuel return from the swirl pot to the low pressure side of the facet pump ie between the fuel tank and the facet pump. cost - air seperator about £8-£10,plus plumbing bits should be able to get yourself sorted out for about £20 steve

right thats the easy bit done, passed at chadderton this afternoon at the second attempt. now for the dvla, phoned straight away from sva centre and got the answer machine so all hopes of inspection tomorrow morning and plates and tax in the afternoon seem to have gone - but hey i've got a big MAC and a grin to match steve

glad to hear that management is ok, bruises and pride soon mend, is the car that bad that its a write off or are you being pessimistic in the aftermath? all the best steve