Graham B

Redline Tuning, Iver Iver, SL0 9HL we used this tuner for the Locost a few years ago --Outstanding results.

Chris , would have loved to attend. But will be abroad... See you all soon Graham B

The 2B + does not have to be a stainless steel chassis. The Plus was an upgrade to the "basic" 2B kit. It included all sorts of bits, steering rack, ights etc. Mine is a 2B plus with mild steel chassis and bodywork.....I paid the extra for the "plus kit".. in 2001. Graham Sept 2001 pickup Project 2B KIT NEW £1835 40ltr stainless tank £85 Plus pack including double wishbone suspension £300 VAT £388.50 Total £2608.50 By the way ---wasn't yellow GRP for the super spec?, dont remember it being offered when I picked my kit..

Sorry, I was in the garage. I think it is running Ok now !!. changed coilpacks and plugs ... Need to do a trip out and get a few miles under my belt.. Then Wahoooooooo ! Graham

Mine was £121, at the post office.

front side infill panels on 2B.. The nose cone supplied does not fit tight up to the chassis at the front --so I spaced the very front off by about 3/4 " each side. The cut outs in the panels did not fit the chassis. the top square ( rear suspension mount) had to have a chunk taken out of the bottom to make it fit. The bottom wishbone interferes with the panel when the car is jacked up, so slotted at sides and bent in round the chassis tube. otherwise , just standard Robinhood "adjustments". Graham

Me too.

My 2B was 2.0 DOHC powered , with a standard Ford ECU. No problem with the Plenum --just made a big bulge in the bonnet. www.gbowden.co.uk

Thats a good price Bob. You dont have to change them all if you can locate the noisy one or just 3 if you get the general area..Stethoscope on block. Mine were quoted at £55 each from Nissan ( didnt buy any !!). New set in latest engine, will see haow they stand up to a pounding!! Graham

Its a 3A , same as Daz393

The locost chassis as built in the Champion book, is a lot smaller and lighter than your 2B. The lengths and widths of the wishbones are all wrong.

May be a cup of tea, but it wont be in the Hood !! It starts and runs, but rough. Seeing as I found broken gaskets in the inlet manifold ( from the factory) , it has all been set up with small air leaks near the block. { my leak was just a bigger one --the Air regulator that John cleaned is a duffer!!} -- old dirty unit fitted and the engine now starts without my finger attached. I will reattach the other sensors etc. and see what happens. Car is on SORN, as I want to tidy the interior too.

Well today my luck changed. Whilst hunting for the PCV valve as a spare to help a mate with a Toyota I took off another hose, rather than re fit it, I put my thumb over the end. Injectors were in fact running , no "click", but when you hold a whole injector in your palm you can feel it jolt. Turned key and ---rumble rumble etc. It runs, not smoothly but it goes. The Air regulator or FICD valve on the new inlet manifold appear to be a straight through, letting a lot of air bypass the throttle body. More investigation tomorrow. Thansk all for the suggestions..

Nigel, ECU is original that was working with old block, wiring is original from ECU to injectors, Injector plug has + voltage, - wire back to ECU meters back to ECU. ECU earthed. Injector clicks when external DC applied. Fuel rail under pressure. Externally connected injector does not click when engine turned over by ignition key. I occasionally get " going to start" sounds, if you know what I mean. I sqiuitrted some cold start in the plenum some time ago. I really am baffled. I was hoping someone would say ---detonator sensor not working will cause this ___ simple of me...!!! Thanks Graham

Both Battery had been on charger for a couple of days. Meters out at over 12 V. Engine turns over fine --healthy spark on all plugs. Fuel pump runs , plenty of pressure at the rail. No new wiring loom . the original is in use. There are some new sensors on the new block etc. ( but which ones malfunctioning would stop the Injectors?) Thinks -- crank sensor must be working as I get sparks. Air flow is directly behind the air filter and is the original on the original loom. I did pull the loom around whilst tidying up, so wires have been metered out back to the ECU. I have 12V on the injectors, just no completion by the ECU. Engine temp and oil pressure have been tried plugged and unplugged. What happens if the Exhaust gas sensor fails? I tried it unplugged, does it have to be there and do something ( what does it do? switch, vary resistance ?)) Come on you build your own mappers !!!

Having swapped out a rattling block for another used unit... I have a spark, Timing of cams checked, Fuel in rail, spark at plugs ---but no Injectors. Metered out wirs back from all sensors I can find . Original Air flow meter, ignition module. Swapped crank angle sensor, swapped throttle body and sensors What does the ECU need to make an injector inject? ( old one fitted externally and it doesnt click) Hair is on floor !! Teddy is out of pram. When turning over it sort of splutters as if it is going to run and then ---nothing I must relax over this weekend........

Merry Xmas to all.

Take off the standard MT75 gear change frame and throw it away. There was a really neat solution on show at Exeter, giving a sturdy quickshift. Sorry didnt note who made it, but a bit of research can't be hard to find. --or make your own!! I cut the lever short, and removed the top plate ( that holds the nylon ball, swivel thingy ) and mounted that where the lever felt comfortable. shortened old gearbox connecting rod to suit..

A good chance we will be there. Engine going in...as I type. Dont know how well it will run though!!! Sorned, so wont be there in the Phoenix --maybe for Xmas dinner..

Thats why my exhaust pipes went over the top of the side, rather than down tight to the engine !! I would suggest wrapping the exhaust and putting an ally shield in place. www.gbowden.co.uk for 2B+ with 2.0l DOHC pictures Graham B

If you take your existing prop down to Mike at Autoprop ( East Grinstead.) He will remake it to the length you want for about £60 -(thats what he charged me. ). Graham

The 2B always had a bonnet that had a gap over the "dashboard " tube. The dash was then made to fit up to the bonnet. The folded over bit was slipped on to the back edge of the bonnet panels to give it some strength. . If you fittied a fixed scuttle ( like me) down to the bar .... I flattened the central joining angles and remade --so the louvres were no longer straight down the bonnet.. A good seal to the windscreen is easier with the fixed scuttle. Gtaham B

If you want to see the chassis mods for the 2 DOHC and Mt75 , plenty of pictures on www.gbowden.co.uk. graham B

Happy b'day for yesterday. You didn't mention it while in the Cotswolds. zzzzzzzzzzzzz! zzzzzzzzzzzz!

Mine too are M6 stainless bolts with the heads removed. drill and tap into the tube chassis rail, hole in bonnet return with rubber grommet.