agent_zed

I like that when it snows anyone with a landrover defender goes for a drive

Hope everyone is safe and warm and driving carefully. Frustrated my all season tyres on my old car don't fit my new one but i guess i don't actually need to go anywhere and prob just end up stuck behind someone. If anyone tells you this doesn't happen on the continent they are lying. Couple of years ago I was stuck for 3.5 hours on a french motorway on the way to skiing as the french were all stuck at the bottom of the mountains trying to fit snowchains. We luckily managed to get off when the police opened a random road across a field and had to find a hotel for the night. My Sister had got there earlier and had been stuck for over 6 hours before they managed to get through. I've been renovating the house over the past few years and decided to put a 12v battery powered system (mostly just some old car batteries in the garage but aobut £5k cheaper than a tesla powerwall) so just connected up a few 12v led striplights incase the power goes out Hoping for a good foot of snow as there is a road closed near me that would be quite fun to ski down Stay safe

Is that the metal cap that RH supplied? If so it normally came with a pipe with a flange to bolt to at the cap end and the other end fitted into the tank using the sierra rubber grommit. I had to make mine a bit longer as i have a custom tank which sits lower so i welded a piece of tube on (think it is scaffold size). This setup has been fine for 10 years on my car. For the sender i cut the shaped hole out of the sierra tank and araldite and riveted it to my stainless tank so i can remove the sender in the normal way intended. Oh also i modded the RH supplied tube as the angle was hard to get the pump nozzle in so i cut a bit out of the inner angle and welded a piece in so there is more space. Also drilled a few holes in the pipe just inside the tank as otherwise you get an airlock at the top of the tank (unless you have a separate air escape. hth

I did my sidescreens over a metal frame. Used my very old singer hand winding sewing machine think it's identical to this one http://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/images/singer-1200x630.jpg . So the way i did it is (if i remember correctly) .... 1. Cut the vinyl to the correct shape with a 2 inch lip that folds around the outer perimeter. I wanted velcro around the top and rear part to attach to the roof (when i get around to making it) so i worked out were it needed to be when the vinyl is folded around and sewed that on. 2. I left an extra long bit where it attaches to the windscreen so there is a tab that sits inside the frame when closed to stop water/air pushing in. 3. cut the window out 4. contact adhesive around the window and stuck the window plastic in place 5. I wanted the centre of the door attached to the frame and the only way i could think to do this (as you can't get the sewing machine in to sew it) is to sew a strip of vinyl across the door vinyl at the top edge sandwiching the window plastic in place. 6. glue the centre bar -> pass the vinyl tab over and around the bar with the cut edge hidden as it's now wrapped around. 7. The skin is now fixed across the centre so you can now pull all the edges around the frame and sew around 8. There are a few parts where you still can't get the sewing machine in so you'll have to finish a corner or 2 by hand. 9. Oh i forgot i also put a piece of 1 inch webbing around the centre bar with a bag clip which i use to hold the door closed with the opposite piece attached to the car to clip to. hope that all makes sense

some other things i think i can see is brackets on the rear tubes for the suspension like this http://www.missioncontrol.f9.co.uk/ss7/Photos/November04/rear_axle.JPG(image from Ian Grants build website http://www.missioncontrol.f9.co.uk/ss7/build_diary.htm ) which appears to be superspec (or at least the build diary is of a superspec) The harness mounts through a round tube are also not standard on a 2002 2b as my chassis has a square tube with tubes welded to the back for the harness bolts, I think i am correct in saying that the pedal box area is different because the mastercylinder is mounted towards the driver so it doesn't stick into the bonnet area as it would hit the inlet manifold (not a problem on the pinto engined version as the exhaust is this side). hth

certainly not an early 2b chassis even with the front wishbone mounting. The tapered in rollbar is a give away as that was only done on the later chassis's.

the one of them said it was the bmw so that information must have been linked to me .... via gumtree The one of them was quite insistant that i had had an accident i literally had to keep saying i am the owner of the car and i know i have not had an accident at least 3 times. I asked all of them where they got my information from and they said MIB database?? but i looked on that site and it says that they don't pass anything on even if it was in there.

After i asked for cash on collection and got a load more rubbish about how difficult it would be for them to get cash and something random about the courier service. But it's ok it is easy to setup paypal and sent me a link which was nice of them, hahaha haven't bothered to reply. Just to add insult in the past few days after posting the ad on gumtree i've had 4 cold calls as apparently i've had an accident at some point that i might want to claim for. Which is news to me having owned the car for 5 years and i think i would have noticed. Odd that i only get called after i post an ad on gumtree!

thanks guys yeah think that is the way to go ask for cash i don't really have the time or energy to mess about.

yeah that's probably safer. I don't want to be finding the payment is somehow revoked or a criminal account or something. Or the car ends up being used for a smash and grab or something. Only asking £400 assuming i'll get knocked down a bit, hoping for at least £300 as i've got reasonable good all season tyres on there (which sadly don't fit my new car ). So not exactly having to bring thousands. Annoyingly if i had the space and time i'd prob strip it as the back subframe looks interesting and i wondered how well it would mate up with a 2b.

As LotusPaul said Nikwax is a known brand in the outdoorsy world. I use it on my skiing stuff and it seems to work quite well. A quick search found this https://www.webtogs.com/en-UK/Nikwax-Tent-and-Gear-SolarProof-500ml-Reproofing/30564wmp.htm?colour=Clear&sku=231007&productid=65376&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20API&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0IjGo_e02QIVjpztCh3N5A2iEAQYBCABEgIdBvD_BwEbut no idea how good it would be on roof material. Buy an old singer type sewing machine they will go through pretty much anything! I used mine to make the boot cover and the sidescreens for my car. Sidescreen material was proper roof material and is quite thick but not a problem for the singer.

Hi, So i put my old bmw 316 on gumtree this morning for spares/repairs and within a few hours i'd had a text asking me to email them as they were interested. Just got an email back from the person saying they can't come to pick it up as they are in a wheel chair and hearing loss but will pay the full asking price (without even seeing the car) and have someone pick it up and will pay me via paypal today. Something just doesn't seem right to me or am i just being paranoid? Is there a scam somewhere in here?

not sure with all paints but cellulose for example doesn't like cold. It 'blooms' and goes milky white if it is cold or damp. Ideally try and get the temp up over 15 deg at least. Leave the spray can in the house to warm up as well (but not on anything really hot as you don't want it to explode ) . You might have to cut back the paint you've already put on if it doesnt look good.

have you got any of the sticker left you can try somewhere? I would guess it is probably ok as push bikes often have stickers that are laquered in, but you never know until you try it.

yeah been there done that. Was wearing a boilersuit, shorts underneith and boxers. Realised my crotch was getting hot and looked down to see i was actually on fire. Burnt through the boiler suit and shorts and thankfully stopped it before it progressed through my boxers Hopefully this will minimise future incidents. Mostly now have to worry about not setting the garage on fire as i've used the planer/thicknesser a lot and there is quite a lot of sawdust around.

ah ok cool just thought i'd double check as the chassis rail around the engine bay rang a bell for some reason. Everytime i see the tubular chassis of the 2b/superspec etc i remember how nice it looks. Shame they don't make them anymore, with a few more tweaks it could have been really fantastic. I think the 'hood' was on it's way but they are pretty hard to find.

didn't RH make a chassis to take the ford DOHC engine? or is that the 2b/4? I think it was more like the superspec chassis to be able to take the bigger mt75 box.

I'll have to measure the heights on my car but i think from memory people often say about 6-6.5 at the front and 7-7.5 at the rear. On the front my lower wishbones are pretty much horizontal. I have 350lb springs though on the front which is 30lb harder than the green zimmerides. If you don't have camber shims to correct camber and toe-in if you drop the rear too much you'll wear the inside of your tyres (like i did ). You'll also start catching the subframe mounts on road bumps (depending on how you fixed it on) I have the sierra springs and shocks still so it's a little different on my car but i still have a top mount that slots into the rollbar tube. I have a couple of different holes where i got it wrong so drilled another. I would have to change holes to change ride height as no adjustment on my spring setup. Because of the pivot points be careful not to adjust the top mount too much if you move it up an inch it will change the ride height by a fair amount more than an inch. If you can put some bits of tube/shims around the tube that slides in to get the correct height without having to drill the hole until you get it in the correct position. Also stick some glossy mags under the wheels so when you jack it down they can slide out to natural position or make sure you roll the car forward and back to settle the wheels.

What with that and Tractors 'toolbox' thread i am going to have some strange search history, god knows what ads are going to pop up ha!

thought i'd splash out on a leather welding apron as have a bit of grinding and welding to do. Also quite often find myself drilling at about waist height and figure a bit of extra material around that around wouldn't go amiss. Anyway got to looking and found this on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Welding-Apron-Protective-Clothing-Dustproof-Uniform-Welder-Apron-Safety-Apron/282844083250?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649arrived today and it certainly looks ok. Seems quite thick leather. Straps aren't that adjustable so a cable tie worked to shorten the neck strap as i couldn't tie a knot in it. so pretty pleased at less than £6.34! I have no connection to the seller so if you buy one don't blame me, just thought others might find it useful. Looking forward to welding my bike carb inlet manifold now as i've cut and tacked all the tubes

Ideally if you can take the spring off the shock you can then move the piston to the best position and set the rest up to match. I am no suspension expert so if i am talking rubbish please correct me but my thinking is... on the front of my car i have 3 inches of shock movement so i set it so i had 2 inches of travel upward and 1 inch droop when in a normal position. I am assuming the same 2:1 setup for the rear would be ok too. E.g if you have 6 inches of shock travel set it so you have 4 inches upward and 2 droop. Once you know how much travel you have you can temporarily hold the piston in the correct place. If you stick a wheel on and lower it so you have ~7inches from the floor to the side panel the wishbone should be in the correct lower position. remove the wheel without altering the height. Stick the shock in with the height set to minus 2 inches (this should leave 4 inches of upward travel still available) and then adjust the top mount to fit. If you can't remove the spring you'll have to know what the shock travel is and then minus 1/3rd of the length. You can just a piece of wood to this length to set the top mount. Once you set the car down on the spring it will obv sink down so you'll need to wind it up a bit to where the shock should sit, hopefully with a nice amount of space between the coils. You should now have the correct height so that the shock has enough movement to go up but also drop down when needed. Hopefully my thinking is not complete nonsense and someone else can either correct or confirm. hth

Well probably won't get much wetter than when i drive the 2b most of the time what with the weather like it is in this country Got soaked earlier this evening as having to fit a new rear spring on my peugeot 3008 which i've only had for a couple of months. Think the huge amount of potholes around probably caused that. Could have done without having to replace it in the rain and dark

cool thanks guys. Think i'll go for that one then as yes i will be shapening wood chisels and the like. Useful tip about draining. I assume i can run it without water if i am not using that wheel?

yeah i went for anti-bloom as i don't see the weather getting much better for a while so might have to spray in less than perfect conditions. So i definitely used activated etch primer but it wasn't the deadly kind. I think we are getting confused in terminology though as there is 2 pack expoxy primers which are nasty things with cyanide and 2 pack activated etch cellulose primers. ' https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/etch-primer 2 Pack Etch PrimersAs the name suggests 2 Pack Etch Primers (or 2 Part Etch Primers)are supplied in two parts - the Primer and an Activated thinners. It is the activated thinners that contains the acid and thus causes the reaction in the primer. 2 Pack Etch Primers should not be confused with Two Pack Epoxy Paints. Whilst the terminology of 2 part (or pack) means the same, the two products are as different as chalk and cheese. Two Pack Epoxy Paints are very hazardous and should only be handled in the proper environment, 2 Part Etch Primers are essentially no more dangerous than their single pack cousins. The disadvantage of 2 Pack Etch Primers is the fact that you have to mix the two parts together.' I used a cellulose etch primer on all my panels from the mild steel to the grp and after 10 years it's held up pretty well. It's the top coat that doesn't seem to hold up so well but not from flaking off but by having the weird reaction as mentioned above. This time around i will be using decent thinners so perhaps that has been my problem in the past and if i put a normal primer on perhaps that will stop any reaction with the etch primer if that is doing something. Getting a good finish out of the gun i've generally been ok at and only need a bit of polishing to get it nice enough for my needs. Oh and having to flat out all the flys I tend to stick a bit more thinners in for the last coat as i've seen people saying to do that and it seems to work for me. I might try using my gravity fed gun this time as it's smaller so perhaps i can use lower pressure on that. Otherwise it will be my bigger gun but that always seems to need a lot of psi or it just won't spray properly even though i think it is a 1.2 nozzle if i am remembering my numbers correctly.

Hi, Want to get a cheap and cheerful bench grinder. Have used my dad's for more years than i can remember and that was just a cheap jobbie so not going to spend a lot. I've seen a wet grinder https://www.screwfix.com/p/energer-enb520grb-150mm-bench-grinder-240v/91494which gets ok reviews and i just wondered whether it was worth having the wet part or not? I've only used the normal double ended dry wheel types so not sure of the advantage of wet grinding. Is this more for very fine finishes? I'll probably grind thinner materials in general, bits of pipe and 4/5mm steel etc and sharpen tools. otherwise will probably get a titan https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb521grb-200mm-bench-grinder-240v/85634 any thoughts? thanks