agent_zed

Apparently the engines are very sensitive to oil levels. i looked at a 156 at a local garage and the salesman told me it had had an engine transplant as the last one had run low on oil and destroyed it, which is a common prob on the alphas as he'd heard of a few others with the same prob.

on the subject of MGF's i was reading a concept car book which showed a 1985 MG concept which to me seemed to be the forerunner to the mgf only 30 years ago. My book shows the car in x-ray so you can see the underlying parts and it looks so similar. or maybe iam nuts http://www.lotusespritturbo.com/MG_EX-E.htm As for what car i'd buy with 4.5k hmmm a datsun 280z although thats more 1972 not 2002. oooh An FTO mitsubishi could be interesting....not sure if they make them in 2002 though.

i was told that a friend of mine was only paying 35pounds for their road tax on their renault clio Diesel. I thought this was rubbish until i checked using the tax checker on parkers guide site. How on earth is it only 35pounds ????!!!!!! i pay 190 for the 2b and i would argue the hood is far better for the enivironment. Anyone know what the cheapest car is (apart from electrics etc)?

oh yeah that would make sense.

Date of Liability 01 06 2008 Date of First Registration 12 06 2007 Year of Manufacture 1990 Cylinder Capacity (cc) 1593CC CO2 Emissions 0g/Km Fuel Type Petrol Export Marker Not Applicable Vehicle Status Licence Not Due Vehicle Colour YELLOW Vehicle Type Approval null This is the info i got on my car from DVLA website. hopefully the link below will work... http://www.vehiclelicence.gov.uk/EvlPortal...Vehicle+Enquiry What does 'Date of Liability 01 06 2008' mean????? i hope i dont have to MOT it for 3 years

in terms of having your tax disc nicked it might be worth scanning or photo'ing your tax disc incase someone does take it. At least you can prove you once had one whist trying to get a new one. Why not go crazy this weekend and copy your passport, driving licience etc as well. Not that i have done this yet

one option i was going to try was putting a nicely curved piece of pipe the correct size for Unleaded nozzle within the rh supplied pipe. It would only need to help the fuel round the corner and could just be tack welded in. Less work overall if you already have most of it done. I have my fuel filler currently as it was intended on the back although i do have to fill carefully i only have a small tank so its not too bad. hth

Welcome, i guess one plan of action would be to check you have all the bits that came with the original kit. If you have a RH brochure there is a list of parts you should have. Once you are sure you have all the bits have a look at the videos (if you have them) and get an over view of what you have to do. Any problems post a more direct question or have a search as there is a lot of useful information hidden on this site. As for the front suspension i guess you have the wishbone version so its pretty robust as far as iam aware. Depending on your skills there are many mods you can do. One thing that is often changed is the bonnet if it is the aligator type, there are a few threads that talk about changing it to a fixed scuttle. It just depends on how much time you want to spend sorting things. Also if i was you i wouldnt post my phone number on here as you never know who could be looking, people can send personal messages to you which are probably a bit safer to pass your number on. good luck HTH

Um am i missing something as ive heard it said a few times now that you can adjust the caster by shimming the wishbones back or forward?! i dont understand how as on my 2b the top wishbones sit into box section front and back and the lower one into a box section at the front. I dont see where you can move it? Sure my car has shims on the lower wishbone but that is because RH welded the back mounting in the wrong place by 1/2 inch. Ive just assumed that castor is set, hopefully iam not missing anything important cheers

I have a big mig that should run off the big bottles but i too found it difficult to get the big bottles so i just bought the small disposable bottles and a regulator. Works ok and cheap to switch to Argon if i want to weld ALu or SS. They are about 10pounds a bottle. Machine mart do the regulators. hth

not sure if it is too big a diameter but IKEA do some in silver for tidying cables in the home. I think it is like $2.50 or something like that. hth ...found it http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/20097954

i was thinking perhaps there should be a dashboard gallery in the wiki thing. So people can see what other people have done for interest and ideas. just a thought

This is my dash which is made from standard hardboard. Its covered with 1/2 inch of foam then vinyl. It uses the standard seirra clocks and also the heater fan switch. Costs hardly anything as hardboard is cheap and the vinyl is only $5 a metre. Ive used fixings on the back so you cannot see any screw heads etc from the front. hth

no worries glad you got it sorted cheers

is that the weird square switches with the round button with a dot in the center and a square bit above? (from a H reg) i may have one lurking in the garage but i wont be back home til the weekend to look. i'll try and find it then. for the cost of p+p its yours if i can locate it....

i hope it is one of those stories that just circulate like when you are 16yrs and everyone is saying that the government is going to change the driving licience age to 18yrs so you dont get to drive for another 2 years! The other story i heard recently was that cellulose paint was banned and was no longer for sale. Which also seems to be false. it would be a shame to end the british tradition of men tinkering in their garages.

Dont do what i did when a changed a head gasket a couple of years ago. Trying to be careful i stuffed newspaper in the cylinders to stop bits of old gasket going in as i cleaned it. It was getting near to being dark and it had just started to rain so my dad came over to help me get it put back together quickly. Because we were rushing and light was a bit bad we just threw the head on. After she was back together we tried to start it but it wouldn't catch, and there was a smell of burnt paper. weird Turns out cylinders stuffed with newspaper doesnt work. Had to fish out the burnt bits of paper through the spark plug holes. On the plus side it did eventually work As they say just make sure it is clean. Put a metal ruler across the head and block to make sure it hasnt warped too much. Just follow the book and you'll be fine. good luck hth

What engine/ecu do you have? my dads transit van with a 2l petrol pinto with a carb and a big ecu thing has a weird problem that sounds similar. If you drive for a long time it will then start missing but if you turn the engine off and on again it will be fine for another couple of hundred miles (although it hasnt done this for a while now). We first had it happen in france and thought we would have to be towed home but just restarted it and it was fine again. We put it down to the ecu getting out of sync somehow and needing to be reset by stopping and starting. Occasionally if it happens my dad will stop start the engine whilst moving as long as noone is about and again it is fine. hth

i custom made my ss tank for my 2b. I used the shaped sender hole from the sierra tank and cut it out so i could then rivet and glue it to the ss tank. The sender now fits exactly like it did in the sierra tank just by twisting it in. I had to bend the float arm as the tank is lower and it didnt read empty and also had to shorten the pickup pipe a little. i made my tank to fit perfectly flat across from the diff/tubes so i believe i have one of the biggest boots in a 2b as my floor is completely flat. hth

Hi, i dont currently have a relay in my fan setup, although i am planning on adding one soon. Your fan system should be independant of the ignition like in most production cars where the fan will continue to run after the engine is off until it is cool enough. I simply ran a heavy duty cable from my battery with an inline fuse to the thermostatic switch and then one to the fan. My only problem is that i put the switch into the end of the thermostat ally housing which means the fan cuts in a bit soon and takes ages to turn off as the engine cools slowly. I am not sure but i think a relay is more likely to turn on and off cleanly when a current is reached where as i would think a thermostatic switch will turn on a bit more slowly as the temp gets close and may therefore wear the switch more as the heavy current arcs across. I am probably completely wrong on that one but thats my thinking ?! hth

hi, i decided to ditch the metal dashboard as soon as i got the kit as i didnt want a sheet of steel above my legs in a crash. I made my dash out of Hardboard covered with foam and leather cloth. Its very strong and doesnt flex or vibrate. My pet hate is visible screw heads so i made brackets on the back before the leathercloth. The dash can now be removed from behind with no visible fixings. It Passed SVA with no problems. Just make sure to use rounded switches or very low switches. hth

when i took my car to sva i boiled over. It kept boiling over until i found that one of my pipes was loose and allowing pressure to escape and there seemed to be a lot of air still in the system, my fan temp switch also needed replacing. After a week or so it eventually got rid of all the air and everything is fine now and the temp has always been in the norm since then even in traffic. I didnt have a cooling problem last summer using the coolman radiator and the rh supplied fan. I dont have any cowling at all and the fan has had the plastic surround removed and a custom holder fitted. iam not running a high performance engine (standard 1.6 pinto) so dont know if it would over heat with something a little more tuned. HTH

i passed in june 07 with the rh motorbike type indicators on their own, if these are the ones in question. hth

saw her racing ginetta G4's at pembrey a couple of years back. Her Brother beat her

had a look and i have 165 on the side, i must have looked at the 2l in my dads transit and got confused with the 205. Think i'll start with the carbs first and go from there, fingers crossed wont find too many problems when i come to changing cams etc but it is an old engine i guess. Maybe have to wait til i have more time Thanks for the help