agent_zed

oh if you have the subframe out and the welder handy weld some nice tags on the subframe to hold the flexi hoses for the brakes (if you havent already). I can post a pic of where i put mine or you can just put the flexi's so they have enough movement and weld the tag there. Iam fussy and bothered to drill a hole in 3mm steel then weld a flat in the hole so the brake fits with a spring clip the same as in the seirra and doesnt turn. hth

could try poking a needle down the jet incase some scum is stopping the water getting out. hth

As said already obviously check everything is safe and in good condition. My sisters car had an alloy that kept going down because of the rim, so we put tyre seal in it (one of those cans of stuff) and its been fine since (over 5000 miles). Just be sure that it is nothing dangerous, nail in the tyre, sidewall damage etc and that it is just leaking around the rim as previously said. I'd also prob put it on the back of the car if it is not already there in case something bad happens so you have control on the front. hth

Hi, dont know for sure but i'd prob avoid it myself incase it burns/melts, i would assume that it just melts on and doesnt change composition. Ive seen a sticking brake cause the brake disc to glow red which would according to a web page i found be around 400+ degrees C which could melt bits of the caliper paint that was nearby, although this is purely a guess and i could be wrong. Get him to coat a bit of metal if you can and put some heat at it and see what happens. You may find the paint doesnt melt or burn but could crinkle and fall off anyway and just look messy. I just used hammerite, might not be the best but its easy to stick a bit more on when its looking tired. hth

I would disagree and argue (in a friendly way of course ) that the cross member holds the handbrake cable as well as the seatbelt inner mountings without it there is not enough strength to mount either. I welded the angle to the subframe on mine and then bolted at various points across, at the tunnel sides it gains strength from the box of the tunnel as the bolts go through the lip of the tunnels down panels where it touches the floor pan. It may not do that much for the subframe but it is an extra bit of bracing and a few more bolts to hopefully keep the back end where it should be. As you say though it would prob have been as idea to remove the rubber donuts, although ive heard they are pretty fixed in.

i havent put it in my car yet but iam going to use an amplified setup for a computer. The one i have is a sub unit with 2 satelite speakers. It also happens to be 12v and is perfectly suited for aux input with volume and bass/treble. Some of the ones ive seen even have remotes. You can buy quite powerful setups now 100w + and they are relatively cheap at around 30gpb. HTH

trying to think logically it could be something like the starter motor solenoid as if you run it it will heat up being next to the engine and will retain a lot of heat as it is quite large. Could cause it to stick. That would explain why it would take a while before it works again, although it really is a guess on my part as iam not that good with electrics. If you have a spare starter might be worth changing it to rule it out. Or the tried and tested 'hit it with a hammer' technique works on my sisters car... HTH

I can only assume it will be for a driving school robin hood with 2 steering wheels

they are trying to clamp down on this grey area. Banham produced the TT shaped cars on a metro which was chopped. They originally didnt need SVA as they had not altered the floor pan, but seeing as the metro was a monocoque SVA realised that the Chassis had been altered sufficently beyond the original design and iam pretty sure they need an SVA test. If you start with a ladder chassis like the herald then it hasnt changed the chassis's original design if you simply change the top. Old kits like the Rotrax wont need SVA either if you have the log book for the Land rover it was built on as it is an unaltered chassis.

apparently 1.1.1973 see - www.dvla.gov.uk/media/pdf/leaflets/v796.pdf

thanks guys. hopefully it's not too difficult to fit them. just got to take everything apart again which is a bit annoying but its all fun and games i guess.... i'll prob get a single one as ive put new ones on one side already. cheers

thanks guys i'll have a play and see if i can get some better results. cheers

from my limited understanding of handling i was under the impression that mid engined cars handle better generally but if they let go it is far harder to correct and you end up in a hedge backwards, due to it being balanced it has no reason to want to straighten up. Unlike front engined rear drive which have more weight at the front. Mind you this is all what ive heard rather than first hand experience and i may have to be corrected hth

Hi it seems as though the search results have got more ambiguous with little to no relation to the search terms. Either iam doin somthing wrong or it needs to be updated somehow. It seems to often just return a lot of the posts that are active which dont necessarily have any relation to the search term. Anyone else get this prob or is it just me.... Obviously there is a lot of amazing info on here and its a shame if we cant get to it. Dont wish to offend anyone who helps run the site just thought you may want some feedback and id any potential probs. Thanks all

Hi, i know this is a common question (but iam having trouble with the search feature on this site as it doesnt seem to return things that are linked to the search term) so i cant find any previous threads with the correct info. Anyhow does anyone have the number/website for a place to get cheap new balljoint rubbers as mine have gone on the other side now (already replaced entire ball joints one side) on the track and drag links. The RH ones suck. dont want to replace all of the joints as they havent been used hardly and the rubber just perished. Only bought new joints for the other side as was in a rush before sva. thanks all

If you have steel chassis and bodywork its prob worth an afternoon with some waxol (or whatever it is theese days). Spray it down the tubes and anywhere crud will sit up under the bodywork. Have a check for anywhere it may leak if you are caught out in a storm, of course the big open bit at the top is the main source of leaks Check the ball joint rubbers if you have the wishbone kit as they seem to have a real problem with cracking. Have to do the other side on my car i noticed the other day (already replaced the track rod joint and drag link on one side ) Remember to stretch your face before you go out driving as you will have a huge smile all of the time which will only get bigger as people in the street shout "nice car mate" etc ...... Oh i remember reading one very important safety concern on the 2b's apparently there is often a problem with the Nut behind the wheel have fun

re-reading this thread and having a think you should be able to just buy a 2ltr pinto running on carbs and swap over the electics dissy and controls etc. May be cheaper than megajolt etc if you can find one.... early transits are 2ltr pintos if you can find one breaking

i was under the impression that you cannot legally use hydraulic handbrakes on road going cars. If it leaks it will disengage...goodbye parked car

i read on someones personal build site that it was possible to use the coil pack and black box off a CVH engine to run the electrics as a cheap solution. but i cant remember where or how difficult it is. i guess you would prob need most of the electrics from the cvh car so may be an intensive option but cheaper.

Hi i shortened mine to the usual 5 1/2 inches (sump that is) with no extra bits and just filled up to the max on the standard dipstick. Havent had a problem so far. I think you lose about 3-400 cc but i may be wrong which is not much worse than running on min on the dipstick. Just keep it topped up... hth

its probably best it has a fault, the last thing you want is to turn on your daughters boyfriend sorry couldn't resist afraid i dont have a sensible answer. i love the english language :D

Not sure what you have tried so far but it should be - start menu - control panel - regional and language options - language tab - advanced then change to either US or UK keyboards depending on which you have. American setup has the @ on the number 2 key top left. HTH Think yourself lucky i bought a second hand keyboard for my sony which has English and Chinese/japanese as well and has a bunch of extra keys that dont do anything and are in that language but it only cost 14gbp so i cant complain.... good luck

The four bolts for the top mounting of my four points are 10mm 8.8 bolts with top hat washers. They passed sva without comment in June 07. hth

hahah i must be wrong as well... thinking about it it probably was a torq but my dads transit uses a square drive for the diff and my laguna has a hex bolt for the sump so it gets a little confusing.

i think he was worried that it may become loose and wear the hole as you cant tighten it down properly. It only took a few hours to add some tubes inside i also drilled a few more holes at the same time so i could change the ride height quickly if i want to. Just remember to take a photo incase he wants to see it. Is it the Bearded Biker SVA man you had. He was pretty good, friendly and chatty...