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Found 13 results

  1. Hi folks. I decided that my Exmo needs doors for when it's cold or wet. And since I could not find any doors that fit my expectations, I decided to build them myself. I created a simple aluminum frame and put 2mm plexi glas on it instead of a soft cover. And while the ready made doors slope forward at the rear end, my doors slope backwards from the lower start of the rear fender, ending just a few inches short of the top edge of the roll bar where my doors get fastened. Maybe a little heavier overall (2.3 kg/door), but they are sturdy enough to not shake when driving and they keep the icy wind out when I drive my seven on sunny days in winter at near freezing temeratures. And in case it rains and I have to put the roof on (that I am also about to fit to the car), the opening is large enough so I still manage to fold into the car (I am not 20 anymore ). But the downside is, that the doors do not fit into that tiny boot of the seven. If I put the doors on to keep wind and slashy water out, I cannot take them off during a trip. So I have to come up with another, more flexible solution for those summer days when I want to enjoy the wind around my head while it's dry but still be prepared in case it rains. Now I wonder if those ready-made doors would fit into the back of the seven. Can anyone tell me? That would be great. You'd probably be interested on how these doors look. But writing this post I reallized that I never made pictures of them and my seven just went away to get a new paint job. So all I can provide today is a picture to the right driver side door leaning against my garage wall. I promise to add better pics of the doors attached to my car once the car is back and put together again.
  2. Hi I'm wiring a new CBS prewired 'loom/fusebox' into my exmo after upgrading and adding a number of electrical fittings and accessories that were either missing or broken on the car (lights/horns/reverse/fog etc). It has been relatively straight forward tracing the circuits to the accessories and switches using a continuity tester and diagrams of the ford stalk switches attached. I have some general queries on the major engine component connections though and ask for comments and advice. UPPER 5 - shows wire to + side of alternator. The existing connection comes off a relay should I leave this? UPPER 6 shows a connection to the starter. This is the live feed to the fuse board, made live only when igniton turned? UPPER 10 shows a connection to the accessory part of the ignition switch, whats this for? LOWER 2 shows 2 connections one to a fuel pump (I dont think the pinto has an electric fuel pump?) and one to the positive side of the coil. There are only 2 wires I can see coming back to the existing loom from the coil and both go onto the rev counter (which doesnt work yet). Other cables from the + side of coil go into some sort of silver plate? I have an existing battery isolator switch wired up which I like. Where is the best place for this in the new setup? Thanks in advance for your thoughts Kris
  3. I am rebuilding my Exmo, in a few weeks time I hope to reach the front end. When I put it together the first time I made sure that the wheels were squared up, in line, body in middle etc. It took a long time measuring before I bolted it all up. There were just too many measurement going on for me to consider caster, I just let things settle where the bushes seemed to take them. The result was even tyre wear, no wandering, no crabbing, BUT no self centering. I have skimmed through the 77 other topics in this forum that mention caster. I did not notice anyone making adjustments to caster on an Exmo. As I see it, I can't change the fore and aft position of the top of the strut because its trapped in the outrigger. The only way is to move the bottom by sliding the antiroll bar forward or backward. In principle a simple thing (I think) just move the two U clamps. I wonder if anyone else has tried this?. Is it worth making the mods so that it is easily adjustable, like mounting the u clamps on beefy brackets with a screw adjustment that can then be clamped firmly?. I am not confident that I can measure the caster accurately enough ? to say add x degrees of caster, so if its easily adjustable I can set it via a suck and see approach? If I over do anything then it could get dangerous and behave like a supermarket trolly. Any insights would be gratefully recieved.
  4. Hi all My original glass bowl lamps are very attractive but very dull is there a replacement LED lamp unit I can fit? The sidelight is non existant in the origibal lamp but the bulb and wiring is taped out the way so would be good to get a combo unit Kris
  5. Burney

    No lights

    Hi folks I'm a new RH Exmo owner. Great fun had at back end of summer although as the darker nights approached I noticed my rear lights are not working but the headlights are. Indicators are off too Are these all on the same citcuit/fuse? Hoping to play with this problem over my xmas hols There are a number of other electrical issues for me to work through but lights are a badic requirement for me to enjpy safe road fun Kris
  6. Listing on eBay at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252475097953 Starting price on eBay at £1995
  7. hi guys i have cobra monaco seats in my exmo and wanting to replace them any pics of what you have fitted cheers Mark
  8. Finally managed to get a bit of time with the car... can't believe I've had it this long already. Anyway it also has it's own bank account so time to make some real progress before I have to leave again! So firstly the car... a Robin Hood Exmo... purchased while on placement in Bedford back in Nov 2012, currently located in Cornwall. I have until July before I move away so need to get it as close to IVA ready as possible to enable a weekendish trip back etc. Main things to do: Fit Seats and Harnesses Wiring (I struggle with it) IVA trim + EXMO IVA changes/modifications Question time (there will probably be a fair few): Air filter - Currently running a pinto with the pierburg 2E carb, the new air filter is the lowest I could find and just contacts the bonnet presume theres no issue with IVA? Also the 3 bolts to hold it on any ideas on size etc, no even sure they are meant to be bolted as there not threaded... Digital Dash - I bought a KOSO RX2N currently without the sensors etc, just got the main unit. Any thoughts on fitting it compared to the standard Sierra clocks for the IVA, bearing in mind that currently there is no speedo cable fitted to the gearbox and I really don't want to / don't have time to take everything out to get at it (access hatch is not ideal either due to the monocoque structure) Suspension mounts - For the rear semi-trailing arms where they mount to the body they enter the drivers and passenger compartment, any pics or ideas on the best way to 'seal' them off. (Presume thats needed for IVA, plus I don't like the idea of getting soaking wet carpet etc) Bonnet - From what I've read it seems like they either fit perfectly or take alot of 'fettling' and never really get there. I've got the classic bump/ gap at the top (meeting the scuttle) and a fairly good fit to the nosecone. The problem is the sides as it currently tends to 'push' out further than the body, you can push it inline. Any ideas or anything simple I've missed? Under dash radius - What have people used to meet the IVA requirements....? Final question (for now) - As it use to have the swept wings there are a series of holes down the body which obviously aren't any good for IVA. Best thing to fill them/ cover - I was wondering if I can get away with 'Racing stripes' or similar purely for the IVA and then get rid... thoughts? Thanks for any help! Suzanne Few pics: Air filter base plate Suspension mounts (apology for the poor quality photo) Interior
  9. 2l Robin Hood Exmo 5-speed (Q-Plate) Currently registered SORN (Requires complete rebuild as stripped apart from rear suspension so it require a trailer to take away) First registered August 1996, I acquired her in August 1997 and used as my regular daily work transport until March 2000 when I took off the road for new engine as brick in road met her sump. Completely rebuilt engine put in in May 2000, but only about 50 mile covered since then, when I took off road to work on suspension and tweak other bits but she never got together again. Family came first so she’s been sat in the garage until now. Unfortunately mice got in and so now there is no wiring harness or carpets as these were wrecked. Engine and cylinder head originally from 2l injection pinto with hardened valve seats so lead free fuel. Injection cylinder head rebuilt by me using Autosprint FR stage 1 (AS27) camshaft and duplex valve springs. New spray bar fitted and vernier pulley. Engine block totally rebuilt by Autosprint in Coleshill May 2000. Note: Only about 50 miles on it so still requires running in. Twin 45 Webbers. Lumenition competition ignition kit. 5-speed N1 gearbox. Robin Hood Engineering 4 to 1 Exhaust manifold. Chromezone stage 2 exhaust. Cobra Roadster 7 seats. 5 off 4 spoke alloy wheels (7x15 MF4) plus 4 spare steel rims and tyres. Facet solid state petrol pump + pro fuel regulator. Weather gear/hood. Swept wings in BRG. Everything should be there apart but master cylinder/servo and the old speedo which I was going to replace with a bike speedo as it was not accurate. I make no guarantees about all the smaller nuts and bolts though. I have pretty much all the receipts and paperwork from the original build and anything I've added too. I’m looking for £2000 ono. All questions welcomed. John Williams
  10. This week I'll be stripping down the Exmo for donor parts for my Zero build. Most of the bits, as you can imagine, I'm keeping but I figure some bits may be of interest to others. Prices are ONO, and all plus shipping. Front swept-style arches (Oxford Blue) £20/pair Rear two-piece wide arches (Oxford Blue) with stainless protector panels £20/pair Nosecone + grille (Oxford Blue) £15 Bonnet, stainless, w/louvres, dinted in top - useful for steel/louvres maybe? £10 Rollover bar, original £30 Windscreen, frame and black side supports £40 Front tie bar kit £20 Light set (headlamps, front indicators, rear clusters, reverse, fog) £20 Rear sierra subframe, arms, springs (note nothing else - no hubs, shafts, etc) £10 Stainless steel tub - for scrap, spare steel, etc. *NO VIN, NO V5* £100 ETB mechanical speedo, 80mm, white on black, geared for Type 9, with cable £40 ETB rev counter, 80mm, white on black, coil pack driven, can include homemade converter to run off ECU £40 Oil pressure gauge, with sender, white on black 52mm £15 Water temperature gauge, with sender, white on black 52mm £15 Fuel level gauge, white on black 52mm no sender, unknown calibration but does not work straight with Ford sender £15 Exmo fuel tank - includes brazed compartment for fuel injection (no need for swirl pot) £40 Front dampers £10/pair Sierra quick rack (2.8 turns) inc arms £50 Items located in Brum obviously edit : Pics slowly being added to :- https://picasaweb.go...feat=directlink
  11. Hi Guys, Hopefully this in the right section. So I have recently purchased an unfinished EXMO. After having a trip upto the factory in Nottingham I was hooked on building one myself rather than buying a 'fully' finished one. Also being on a student budget does make things a little bit tighter. On to the purchase: As you can see more than enough to keep me busy for a while, probably best to add that the engine (1.8 ford sierra OHC) currently doesn't run but has been re-bored etc and turns over by hand. Battery, plugs and leads all on order, distributor cap and rotatory arm cleaned up. Currently in the process of stripping the brakes down and a general clean and tidy of the suspension components, I have found one front caliper seized beyond belief and that the front brake lines do not want to part from the calipers so they are packed to go home to dad for some 'gentle' persuasion! On the other hand the rear drums don't appear to have the access screw to slacken them off, any ideas would be appreciated... as they are also stuck fast and have been left to soak overnight before they will be attended to again. Thinking ahead has anyone tried to get the EXMO through the IVA and if so any pointers would be welcomed! I'm sure I will have a few more questions as it progresses. Look forward to hearing from people. Suzanne Based in Bedford.
  12. Regrettably, time has come to part with my pride and joy. Not because I want to but because age has crept up behind me and I now no longer have the ability to get in and out. So here we go, Robin Hood Exmo Kit Car, Based on Ford Sierra with a 2.0 litre Ford Pinto engine mated to a 5 Speed manual transmission. It has covered 16643 miles since build. Purpose made plastic wind deflectors, Tonneau cover for every day use and full wet weather gear including side screens (not shown in photos) for when the British weather catches you out. Repacked exhaust to reduce the mind numbing exhaust noise on long journeys making it a pleasure to drive, Lockable storage area with built in tool box in lid. MOT expires at the end of July 2013. Tax expires at the end of February 2013. This car was built and registered in 1997 and has only missed 1 trip to the Le Mans 24 hr race since registration. Please email me for more photo's. Vehicle located in Swindon, Wiltshire. Viewing recommended. Price is £4,500. Call Ken on 01793535859 or 07875637284.
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