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Found 16 results

  1. So I'll start the ball rolling with a build thread - almost definitely this is going to be a very long-running one . First post will just be an introduction to what is being planned, and some background to how we got here. Donor The donor is my old Robin Hood Exmo. Since the value of this in the market is so low these days, and having poured a sizeable chunk of cash into it last year getting it back on the road (engine management, BGT gearset, etc), I'm really happy with it apart from one aspect - the chassis. Built it back in '96 with a mate (we both went 50/50) on a budget and far less experience than today. Bought out my mate's half in the mid-noughties. Originally a Pinto, but converted to the K-Series in the late 90's. It's a good, known car, and obviously the ideal donor. And before anyone asks, yes I will be doing it properly via IVA Zero Spotted an unused kit on eBay back in the spring. Now I'd already got plans to do the transplant into a Zero around this time of year, but was originally just going to buy a new kit. However I thought I'd have a punt on the unused kit and put in a suitably low offer. Well, it all came through, the guy was happy with the offer and must have been eager for the cash as he ended it early and we did the deal. The kit got stored away until now, no time to really do anything with it as my time was taken up with motorsport during the main part of the year, and rebuilding an engine for another car. Now the season is over it's time to start up the winter project So at present time we have a Zero kit from late 2010. The Kwak green is going - I've picked up a new set of white bodywork for it (the newer one-piece rear wings and revised nosecone) and the necessary bits of plate/bracketry to bring the chassis up to present-day spec (thanks Keith at GBS). First job is to strip the Exmo of all the donor parts and I've taken evidential footage of its make-up, including a video of it running, in case anyone later queries it. The suspension arms are off to be dipped/cleaned with a mate, as their paint was peeling off and surface rust on some portions of them, so we'll start again with those. First task is to offer up the K-Series and figure out what's going to interfere with what. The bellhousing I have was originally for a Fisher so tilts the engine over considerably from the vertical, so I suspect the top chassis tube is going to be a problem. If this is the case I suspect I'll either need to get the bellhousing modified, or get a new one that keeps the engine vertical. We'll see. Hopefully get this done the weekend.
  2. Hi technical experts, I need new suspension bushes for Ford based Zero, I have used GBS ones but they have appear to failed after 1200 miles. Does anyone know of another supplier who sells them? Maybe better material.
  3. Hi All, Uncertain and inexperienced new member asking for a quick bit of advice please! I have agreed to purchase this secondhand GBS Zero - please see expired eBay listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122578482611 I've just checked on the DVLA website, however, as its registered as a Robin Hood. Questions: - Is this is genuine GBS Zero? Is there a way of checking or can you tell from the photos? - Assuming it is, does the slightly incorrect registration cause any issue/ concern? - Any other thoughts welcome! Due to exchange on Saturday so apologies to ask for a quick response... Many thanks all. Pete
  4. At long last after 8 weeks off work recovering from an operation I am allowed to drive again. So whilst sitting at home doing nothing and bored stupid with day time TV I decided to treat myself to a new exhaust shield to stop me worrying about my son burning himself on the exhaust can. Then on the test drive I tried the new accident dash-cam, only a cheap version from Aldi, but I was surprised with the quality and think it is good enough considering yesterday day was cloudy and overcast. A lot of back ground noise but I suspect even an expensive cam will suffer with wind noise.
  5. Hello All I am piecing together my Zero and have a few suspension questions for the old hands out there: 1. The front suspension bottom ball joints are held in place with 3 bolts each side. I have noticed that the GBS-supplied nuts have been squashed a bit on one side to make them off-round. I've never seen these before, so here's my question - do you apply a locking compound to them or just tighten to the specified torque and leave them? 2. Out of interest, does anyone recommend applying locking compound to nyloc locknuts? 3. Do you use washers on the nut / bolt for the bottom ball joints? There aren't any supplied in the fitting kit. Many thanks for your help BB
  6. Advice needed from anyone who has fitted hood and doors, where do you start? Where do you fit the support brackets for the frame? Do you use rivets or screws in screen frame or rear panels? I have the standard narrowbody zero kit. Thanks Mark
  7. Well I have dreamed of building a kit car for over 20 years. I decided on building a Robinhood 2B but I was in the Army and posted around the world. Finally I was medically discharged after 11 1/2 years due to injury and had more time and fixed location. However since leaving Robinhood engineering went through a few changes and I decided on a GBS Zero, why because it was cheap and used a single donor. I have not had time to create a blog whilst building the kit, it has taken me about 4 years and just waiting for IVA re-test date so whilst am waiting I thought I would share some photos and issues that may help others. I am a mechanic by trade although I have not worked in a garage for 8 years, except on the kit car. Finally I would like to thank many on this forum for their help and guidance. How do I turn this; and this; Into this;
  8. Was out in the car the other day and it started to rain so I fitted the roof before heading home. It was a right PITA to fit and it started me thinking about a half hood. I have a couple of feelers out with Soft Bits For Sevens and also Lesley Storr Designs to have one made but Richyb's hard top thread has sort of inspired me to have a go at making one myself. In the words of Jeremy Clarkson ... "How hard can it be?". Anyone have any experience with either SBFS or LSD or even making a half hood themselves?
  9. For sale is my beloved GBS Zero Fitted with an extensively tuned pinto engine using a 205 motorsport block and Kawasaki zx9r bike carbs. Full spec below....
  10. Hi All, I currenlty have my old stainess steel exhaust for sale on ebay. Happy to provide a 10% discount for any RHOCAR members GBS Robin Hood Zero Exhaust Manifold and Silencer Stainless Steel exhaust manifold and silencer for GBS Robin Hood Zero. Manifold suitable for Zetec Blacktop and Silver top engines. Manifold supplied by GBS (£175+vat new) and 5 inch exhaust Silence includes sports cat £550+vat new). This was made by custom chrome. Used to get car through IVA and used for around 180 miles. I have since replaced for a decat. The silencer and manifold are currently braised together but could be split with a bit of heat if required. May fit other lotus 7 style cars, but please check before you purchase. Viewing welcome by arrangement. We are in Dorking Surrey. PayPal or cash on collection only. Link to ebay can be found here: GBS Robin Hood Zero Exhaust Manifold and Silencer Ford Zetec Also have a few other items for sale: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/ethanicus/m.html?item=121007623672&ViewItem=&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks, Jon
  11. This is an odd one that I need to put in to perspective. I live in a coach house, so a flat above 3 garages. I have one of the garages, and it is self contained, there is no access to the flat. To get to the flat, there is a door next to the garage. Since fetching the car back last Tuesday, there has been a strong smell of petrol in the hallway at the bottom of the stairs, I am glad to say it doesn't go up the stairs in to the flat. The wall between the garage and the bottom of the stairs is light weight block and there are no obvious holes through from the garage. The Zero has a distict smell to it which is a combination of petrol and oil. Has anyone else experienced this smell and is it something that will go away as the car becomes 'less new' or is it something I will have to live with.
  12. Hi all, Im looking for a fly screen for my Zero, Ive seen the new gbs one on their site but not in the flesh. Has anyone got one of the GBS ones and what other decent ones are available? Photos welcomed!!
  13. David S

    Iva Date Set

    Got a call from the factory today to say that my car has been booked in for its IVA on Friday afternoon. There are a few little jobs that Simon is doing for me in preparation then it is in for the test. I know that Simon will do an excellent job and won't take it in unless he is 99% sure it will pass. Then, subject to the pass, Richard thinks they should be able to get it registered with the DVLA on the following Monday and then it is just a case of waiting for the paper work to come through before I can collect it. All being well, and we are in the hands of the DVLA here, I hope to get it around the 28th. Having said that, I may get them to register it from 1st April so I don't lose a whole months road tax for the sake of a few days. Hmmm, need to think about that one. Anyway, I feel I need some form of advent calendar so I can count the days down
  14. Good morning folks, I am putting together a WB Zero in Australia and do not have the luxury of dropping into Maun Way when I have a question, hence my appeal here. I am looking at the rear panel for my car and at the same time looking at a number of excellent blogs on the subject. The problem is that the rear panel shown in all the blogs is in one piece and goes over the suspension, continuing forward across the rear cresent. This gives a nice clean continuous panel across the top of the rear wing/mudguard. My rear panel comes in two parts; the main part finishes at the top of the arched cut-out for the suspension/shock absorber, and the second part covers the rear cresent and also finishes at the top of the arch cut-out. Clearly there is going to be a join right above the centre of the rear wing. I did Skype the factory on the matter and the response was to overlap the 2 panels (seriously uglu option) or butt joint them (ugly and fraught with danger). How have other WB Zero builders managed to hide or at least minimise the impact of this join?
  15. The car is getting very close to finished now but I now need to fit the dreaded IVA trim. It looks pants but it must be fitted. I tried to fit some on the sides of the nose cone at the weekend and it is a real b itch and won't fit. Any advice for fitting this stuff? Would warming it up first make it more flexible for example? Also, there are 3 sizes. The smal rubber stuff is clearly for the aluminium panels and that fits OK. The dash side of the scuttle is the large stuff, but what size goes on the mudguards for example? I tried using the medium on the nose cone but it wouldn't hold on and the large struff doesn't seem maliable enough to go round the corners or curves. I don't want to resort to glue as I have just had the panels painted!
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