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Mig Welding Tips (As In The End Bits Of The Torch)


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Hi,

got to buy some more tips for my mig welder. anyone know how many sizes there are?

 

the local shop had some small ones but mine were slightly bigger. Looked on ebay and there seemed to be M5 and M6 so iam guessing mine are M6.

 

Is there only the 2 sizes? or are there different thread pitches or imperial etc?

 

 

Also is there anything i can lubricate the mig wire with, so it runs smoother?

 

thanks

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Try this website, or give them a ring - always found them really helpful:

http://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding/Mig_Torch_Spares.html

 

If the wire has some minor surface corrosion, try a wad of wire wool held loosely round the wire before the feed rollers with a large bull dog clip to give the a surface clean before being fed through.

 

Good luck

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There are

There are two welding torches you are likely to come across. A small hobbyist type which uses M5 welding tips. A larger type 14/15 semi pro torch which uses the M6 tips but not much bigger than the hobbyist ones. There are larger professional type 25 and 36 which are much bigger again and have flats on the tip to help fitting but has an M6 thread but these are for machines of 250amps plus.

Be aware you also should specify the wire hole size, 0.6 or 0.8 depending which diameter welding wire you are using.

As previously said if the wire feed is jerky make sure the wire is clean, the spool turns smoothly and the drag on the spool is just enough to prevent it unravelling. (buy a new spool if the wire is rusty) Check you are using the right tip size, check the rollers are clean, dry, the groove is set to the right wire size and properly tensioned just enough to grip the wire. If all these are OK then replace the liner.

 

Nigel

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It has been mentioned above to replace liner with a plastic (teflon) one. I have always used a steel liner in my 180 A mig & very rarely ( 2years) need to replace tips; the current is being transfered to the weld wire thoughout the length of the liner so high electrical load/heating of the tip is avoided; & any lube of wire will attract dust & partially insulate it. All other points are valid HTH.

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Thanks guys some really useful info. think i didn't explain that well though. Iam ok with the wire size hole (using 0.8 ) it was the actual tip size that i didn't know. IE the threaded part. I measured it last night and it was 6mm and appeared to have a 1mm pitch so i am assuming those are the 6mm ones and there isn't anything else like an imperial version or anything. Thinking about it the machine is some german make so must be metric? i hope.

 

Think i may invest a bit of money and get the liner changed and maybe the tip holder.

 

Iam getting a lot of burn back at the moment and it sticks to the tip. I've tried adjusting the wire speed and gas flow so think i'll try and get everything running smoother as well to eliminate that.

 

Screwfix do some but they look to be the smaller ones than what i have. Mine have 2 flats on them presumably to help tighten them in. Oh its a 130amp turbo mig with separate gas bottle so its reasonably big but its just an odd make, something begining with H i think from memory and German.

 

thanks all

Edited by agent_zed
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  • 3 months later...

A bit late for this post I know ,but , just reading through some old stuff and came across this post.

 

Please don't think I'm being rude, but, are you self taught MIG welding? If not , did the person teaching you teach you how to "tune it in" you should get a distinctive "crackle" when it's right, very hard to describe but once you have heard it you'll know what I mean. Obviously each welding job may differ slightly, due to various elements, thickness of the workpiece, difference in 2 pieces being joined, ambient temperature, resistance within materials, distance you can place the "Earth clamp" away from the tip etc etc;

 

Ideally you want to set up your welder on a scrap piece, if you know your machine you should be able to tune it in a few seconds, you don't want it to have an audible gap between the arcs, they want to be almost entirely flowing together, thats when you get the crackle. 1.2mm should be quite easily achievable with a decent rig and the correct flow rate etc; SS or Mild steel. Which reminds me , I read in a thread somewhere that some SS chassis are having rust problems where they have been welded ? That should be impossible. If using TIG and a SS filler rod. If using MIG steel welding process and not using SS as the filler inevitably the weld will oxidise as the conventional welding material is not SS. Finally why do they call it Stainless steel? It does stain,lemon juice does it quite nicely, it should be called oxide resistant.

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no offence taken. I am self taught to be honest and whilst not the best welder in the world i am not too bad most of the time although i was getting worse. I replaced the mig torch tip holder, tip and shroud and i was back to pretty good welding. I was getting annoyed as i was changing the settings and still getting poor results so it does seem like the kit was at fault (well me for not replacing sooner).

 

Will prob change the liner too soon if iam doing more welding.

 

With the stainless i used stainless mig wire and argon and although discoloured it hasn't 'rusted'. I actually made my own fuel tank out of 1.2mm stainless and did the welding myself and that all past SVA without a question. but that was 5 years ago so guess the welder needed some tlc

 

thanks :)

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  • 8 years later...

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