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R-V8 Into A Exmo Project


richardm6994

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make a press former Rich. 2 bits of plate in the vice, say 1" thick each, and mill through a slot equal to the size of rectangle you want.

Crank them over about 5 degees though mate and polish out the thin ends to a rad, it'll help the transition from flat to round.

 

Might help to dowel the halves together depending on what wall section tube you've gone for.

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Just a thought....I've heard people on the v8 forums plumbing through the pump body and removing the pulley and impeller (and sealing he shaft hole).....is this feasible or would the water take the easiest path down the lowest of the two water galleries in the snail shaped pump hole?

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My honest opinion? Total bodge!

The cool flow to the engine as standard enters uphill into

the impeller and is equally distributed by its rotational force

and the shaping of the timing cover. So, with that in mind I reckon

I'd fully agree with the water heading for the lowest port.

This 'could?' Leave pots 2 & 4 in a hot spot mate.

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Slowly, slowly catchy Monkey....

Tis not a race.

When building the rocker shaft note the notch on the end of the rod, that denotes the correct orientation for oil flow. Mirror image to the one I already did. ;)

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okay..as my goal is to be ready in time for Stonlegh...I really need to get a move on!! So I'm going to increase my time spent on this project to 2 nights a week and 1 day at the weekend!

 

Update where I am at;

 

I got the laser cut pump blanking plate on Friday. It's spot on for fitment onto the engine so I'm dead chuffed.

After a great deal of research regaring mass flow rates (from the ewp spec), pressure drops etc...and also talking to people on the land rover 4x4 forums, I decided that 2 x 28mm dia inlets would easily be big enough to cope with the max flow rate of 115 litres per minute that the ewp generates with minimal pressure drop.

 

So this is the plate to begin with....

DSCN0321_zps5e92eae9.jpg

 

 

 

I've crimped a compression fitting olive onto the 28mm dia inlet pipes to act as a flared end to stop the hoses from popping off under pressure..

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Inlets welded onto the plate from the back....I'm going to stick this on the srface grinder to ensure a totally flat sealing face...

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As installed on the engine..I also welded a couple of threaded studs to mount my VR sensor bracket to (I modified the trigger wheels VR bracket to suit). I've done this to make life a bit easier when it comes to making the bottom alternator bracket

DSCN0323_zps4eee33db.jpg

 

 

 

 

This is the start on the radiator mounts....It's probably not going to finish up like this, but I've just been playing around to get a few ideas as to the best way to mount the rad..(it used to be on the other side of the suspention butress)..

DSCN0325_zpse64d19d9.jpg

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this is where I'm up to.....

 

Radiator sub frame.

DSCN0340_zps7809abb3.jpg

 

 

 

 

All hoses in situ. More joints than my old university house! When I've finished this project I'm going to save my pennys and get this fabricated in one peice out of some ally or stainless....but for now this will have to do!

Also the EWP instructions recomend that the unit is mounted to a hose and not bolted to the engine / car. This is to dampen the vibrations.

DSCN0343_zps48ef9811.jpg

 

 

 

 

The rad and fan fitted and tested with nosecone fitted. The rad is very deep! 4-cores so this should help keep the v8 lump cool.

 

DSCN0345_zpsa46e306c.jpg

 

 

Now onto the pedal box. I've had a play with this and got my original box to fit with the brake servo! theres a good 15-20mm clear to the rocker cover. I've got a couple of ideas regarding the hydraulic clutch so fingers crossed, this should be a straight forward job

 

DSCN0350_zps9e04a5b5.jpg

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Cheers rob. To be honest, it's all a bit of an unknown to me! I had the servo on the pinto engine and liked the good strong feel of the brakes and this is why I wanted to try and get it to fit back on with the v8.

 

When all said and done, it's easier to take it off if I don't need it than it would be to try and put it back on at a later stage..

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Guest Ian & Carole

True, if you have the space give it a go. I found I only needed to use the brakes on my V6 if I was doing an emergency stop, the rest of the time I just lifted off and let the servo do it. Scared the crap out of guys following a little too close behind though :)

 

That is the only down side to the Toyota engine, high revving 1.6 almost no engine braking. but the rev range makes up for it :clapping: :clapping: :angel:

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right then, clutch pedal sorted. I've positioned the master cylinder as close to the brake servo as possible so that the centre line of the push rod is as close to the pedal as possible. The push rod ended up being about 10mm away from the side of the pedal so I didn't think this was too bad.

 

I've used a short length of 25mm box inside the pedal to prevent the pedal profile from crushing when tightening up the bolts and a 5mm spacer plate plus m8 nut to set the clevis the correct distance away from the pedal.

 

Not exactly precision engineering but it's simple enough and it works!

 

DSCN0352_zpsbfde8d26.jpg

 

 

 

So the next step is to go backwards before I can go any further forwards! I'm going to strip everything off and take the engine out. Then I've got to sort out my engine wiring, brake lines and paint the engine bay along with loads of other stuff need to be done to finish off the engine!!

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