Engine Electrical Problem

[Guest MarkB]

Edis getting hot?

[Longboarder]

Sounds like a carefull examination of the battery to ign switch, the ignition switch electrics, supply from it to ignition live fuses and then to ecu,edis and coils would be next.

 

Nigel

[richardm6994]

Had another look and the coils have now got new 12v feeds along with the edis, plus a new edis earth.

 

Mark....it had crossed my mind that the edis or vr sensor could be getting too hot, however tonight when the engine died it was only at 50degC.

 

The hope ive got left is pinned on the new 12v feeds and earth....however there was nothing obviously wrong with the old wiring....I would be happier if I found a loose connection or something but every joint is soldered and the heat shrink over the top.

 

Fingers crossed

[Guest MarkB]

Had another look and the coils have now got new 12v feeds along with the edis, plus a new edis earth.

 

Mark....it had crossed my mind that the edis or vr sensor could be getting too hot, however tonight when the engine died it was only at 50degC.

 

The hope ive got left is pinned on the new 12v feeds and earth....however there was nothing obviously wrong with the old wiring....I would be happier if I found a loose connection or something but every joint is soldered and the heat shrink over the top.

 

Fingers crossed

 

I meant the edis getting hot internally due to fault not by heat absorption. used to change quite a few many years ago

[richardm6994]

I see. I've not checked that.

 

How warm is normal and how hot is fubar?

[Guest MarkB]

Edis gives off very little heat but like any other electrical component will suffer from heat absorbtion.

[sj-bradley]

Electronic circuits can run surprisingly hot - sometimes to 150 degrees at the semiconductor junctions (providing there is an adequate heat sink, this is ok)

 

usually though, if it gets too hot, you can get thermal run away (and smell the difference ! )

 

I do not have enough knowledge of the sensors / circuits you mention though.

[richardm6994]

I have another drive out tonight and another mess about in the garage......and the problem is still there!! I'm getting really pi55ed off now as I've lost all confidence when going around a corner incase I get the split-second engine cut-out and loose the back end

 

The edis isn't getting hot nor does it smell.

 

I've checked the ignition wiring and all seems fine. Also checked for loose fuses and generally anything else.

 

Before I take the gamble and buy a new edis, I'm going to bring the car to hollowell this weekend and hopefully mark, dan and the other sparkys can have a probe and hopefully see something I've missed!

 

 

[richardm6994]

I thought I'd give this thread an update for those who didn't get to the national meet.

 

With the help of numerous members this weekend, we deduced that the fault is more than likely a broken edis8.

 

We bypassed the ignition circuit and put 12v straight from the battery to the edis...and also a separate 12v feed from the battery to each coil pack. Problem still persisted. We also earthed the edis straight to the battery....still no good.

 

We cleaned the edis plug and terminals and the problem still persisted.

 

When I took markb for a drive, he noticed that whenever it happened the edis-driven rev counter would instantly drop for that split second indicating a power or signal loss at the edis.....however the edis had 12v and earth going straight from the battery and I knew the vr cable was 100% good as it has all just been redone.

 

Thanks to everyone who lent a hand and a new edis is now on order. Fingers crossed

[Snapperpaul]

You beat me to the conclusion

I was going to suggest EDIS

Another point to consider is the the EDIS is known to be vulnerable to engine bay heat, in the original car it was marginal, in our cars under bonnet heat is much higher

I have Megajolt and EDIS under the scuttle

[richardm6994]

Cheers Paul. I've eliminated heat as being the problem because this happens right from the moment you turn the key on a cold engine.

 

Unless of course my engine bay heat knackered it in the first place and it's been broke ever since? I think I may relocate the new edis out of the engine bay just to be on the safe side

[Guest DiscoDave]

I have had a very similar problem. The engine literally cuts out mid drive along with the electrics. Usually it is recoverable immediately by pulling over and restarting the engine, but last week the electrics had completely gone and in the end had to call the AA. By the time he had dropped me back at the house everything was working fine again! The starter motor still turns over but everything else stops working. I'm not as technically savy as a lot of the people posting on here! But would be interested to know whether you found a solution? The AA man thought the issue was probably with the ignition as the car was behaving as if the ignition was turned off......

[Guest streetsy]

I used to run magajolt on my midas (red one on the front of complete kit car this month) i had a similar intermittent issue and with mine it was the trigger wheel teeth, initially i milled teeth into the front of the bottom pulley and i suspect they were not deep enough so I made a trigger wheel from 6mm plate and welded it to the pulley. Could your triggerwheel have become clogged somehow reducing the clarity between the teeth? it once also managed to get a small piece of swarf on the front of the pickup, that didn't help much either.

[richardm6994]

Really not happy and feeling very sh!t and pi55ed off. A new edis and plug fitted today and the problem is still there!!

 

I'm about at the end of my tether with this. So far it has cost over a £100 in 2 vr sensors and edis and shielded cable and I'm still no nearer to figuring out what's wrong!!

 

Although I've checked and checked again, I'm going to strip out and redo the ignition wiring tomorrow. It seems pointless but I don't know what else to try.

 

Has anyone else got any thoughts? Bearing in mind that we've tried taking power and earths directly from the battery to the edis and coils so it eliminates any of my wiring behind the dash.

 

And the trigger wheel is fine but thanks for mentioning it

[Guest Ian & Carole]

 

Bearing in mind that we've tried taking power and earth's directly from the battery to the edis and coils so it eliminates any of my wiring .

 

Rich

If you read that back when not so pissd off with it you might have the answer.

once you do unearth this I bet it will be a really stupid fault.