Where Do I Start ;-)

[Guest Jthorne]

Hi all, I am very new to the Robin Hood Scene but have just purchased my first part build 2B. The car itself has (I am told) everything with it to complete it and the work that has been done so far is fantastic. I have everything in place to drive the car about although I have had some break issues and currently Im running from a jerry can strapped in the back boot section. I have a number of questions to be asked along the way during my build and I hope to have the car ready for IVA within about 2 months. The main issue I'm having is knowing the requirements for the IVA, I don't want to do something that the car then later fails on. Currently I am working on getting the fuel tank correctly connected up. The car has two copper pipes running down the centre tunnel which currently are about 2 meters too long, these pipes are then pushed into a bit of rubber hose, this hose then goes into some plastic tube that is in the top of the jerry can. Obviously I need to connect this all up correctly. The tank is a custom made tank and has two right angle metal pipes coming out of one side, simply I need to cut the copper pipe to length, route it and connect it up to these right angle pipes. What I am worried about is that it wont be as simple as that and in fact I am meant to use metal braded hose or something else to connect the two? My plan was to keep the 2" rubber host on the end of the copper pipe but use 4 clamps to connect it directly into the tank. Does this sound OK? will it pass IVA on this?

[Guest davidimurray]

Hello and welcome to the forum.

 

First thing I would start at is get a copy of the IVA manual, print it out and read it. Then take it down the garage and go through every point on every page against your car so far - will take 2 or 3 days to do it properly but is well worth it.

 

Regarding fuel lines they generally need to be supported every 300mm max. The material doesn't really matter, my inspector liked my copper pipes. If using a rubber hose you should get some marked for fuel or petrol. Braided hoses can be used but I am not a fan as you cannot see the condition. Clips are fine on the end but would reccomend using 'fuel' clips rather than jubilee clips as they are less likely to damage the hose.I must put the links up to the hundreds of photos I took during my build.

 

Which test station are you planning on using? I used Cardiff (Llantrisant) as it is only a mile or so from home and Bob there is very friendly and helpful.

[richyb66]

If you've not already seen it, have a look at Colin Usher's excellent site for his 2B build

 

http://www.colinusher.info/Robin%20Hood/index.html

 

The car was built to pass SVA which with the exception of about half a dozen points, is the same as IVA.

[Guest Jthorne]

Thankyou for the speedy replies! - Richy I had not seen that site but it seems a good source of knowledge! Thank you! I will be adding some pictures as I go alone, browsing this site has already solved my clutch travel problem so I'm very glad I found it! David - I haven't through as far as the test yet :-) I would hope to find a place in Bristol but if not then Cardiff it is.

[agent_zed]

Avonmouth has a test center (unless its gone now.) as i SVA'd my 2b in 2007.

 

Whilst the previous builder may have been a good builder i would seriously inspect everything that has been done so far. If you can't see how its done dismantle to make sure it is up to standard. At the end of the day you don't want to trust your life to someone who lost interest in building the car, however good they are!

 

One point to check is making sure there are crush tubes inside the rear suspension top mounting tubes. My SVA inspector wanted proof (photos) of the crush tubes.

 

Good luck on the build.

[Guest Jthorne]

The more I dig in to this SVA test the more I dislike... I have only just read about the photo evidence needed. Obviously I have none as I didn't do a large chunk of the build... I think this weekend I will be mostly reading about SVA's! almost Wish I knew a tester who could give the car a once over as is... I am actually geared up for it to fail so I hope there is not a huge waiting list to rebook :-(

[Tazzzzman1]

Hi

 

Attached is a link to the IVA manual...suggest you read it very carefully..https://www.gov.uk/g...cle-category-m1

 

Don't be scared or put off as a lot of the manual is waffle, however if you take the build with a common sense approach and take into account each requirement you should get through no problems. If you get stuck or are not sure, just ask on here, loads of advice/ help always on hand.

You may also find some lads local to you who can pop around, chomp on some biccies and drink all your coffe whilst pointing you in the right direction..

 

HTH

[Guest mower man]

Hi and welcome as said above get a copy of the IVA manual it a pain in the derrere but thats it luckily my car was pre IVA AND SVA but I still hate it!, next thing is remember there are lots of us out here who will help and that the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!!!!!good luck with your build its a big learning curve but well worth it mower man

[Guest peter2b2002]

with any luck there might be a group of hoodies near you (you need lots of tea+ hob nobs) to help you out

petert2b

[knights_templar]

The manual is a bit like war and piece, link above will get you a copy, you need to cover the basic section not the normal, although basic is not what I would call it.

 

You will see by the Revisions, it is a continually changing document, AND some of it is reliant on the opinion of the tester on the day, It is not just a re worded SVA.

 

Recent knowledge of the IVA test is best, and you can always talk to your test centre, call in and ask for an appointment in person, because trying to get through by phone is a nightmare. They are usually helpful.

[fry61]

In the main the IVA has to be a good thing, hopefully it ensures kits are built to a road worthy standard. Yes, there a points which seem very picky but I'm glad our car was subjected to an independent evaluation before Sylvia & I headed off into the wide blue yonder at speeds well in excess of 70. Our first kit was 35 years ago, no tests by any-one just sent in some papers & back came a log book & new registration. It's why we also had full MOT's at years 1 & 2 even though not required til 3 years old.

[knights_templar]

Unfortunately an IVA, and an MOT, does not make the car safe to be on the road. They both make sure a vehicle complies with a set of standards set by the ministry.

 

For example, the vehicle is lifted into the air for a under vehicle inspection but at no time is the vehicle lifted to allow checking of wheel bearings or free play in any of the suspension. The MOT does do that test, but they are not allowed to remove anything to asses the car, so anything hidden under panels, or carpet, is not tested. At least with IVA they can ask for things to be removed if required.

 

The two statements that used to appear on the back of the cert, don't know if they still do, "in the opinion of the tester, at the time of testing" and some wording about not taking cert as proof that the vehicle is roadworthy, forgot actual wording.

[fry61]

Well Simon, it sure is better than bugger all.

[knights_templar]

totally agree.

 

but I did not want people to think that passing an IVA, or an MOT, mean that a vehicle is safe or legal for the road.

 

Builders thinking this could be lulled into the belief that their work is being checked and therefore not apply as much care as is wise.

 

Think the highway code states it is the drivers responsibility, although like many, I have not read it for many years.

 

JMO but based on experiance.

[Snapperpaul]

An awful lot of Robin Hoods have passed IVA if broken down in to manegable bits it is not hard to achieve and talking with club members face to face helps a lot.

Fuel pipe fix wit P clips every 300 mm most do 100 to 150 mm

Use rubber fuel hose with markings be aware carb and injection hose are different if in doubt injection rated hose is safe for both and you may want to change later

It often recomended to not fit screen for test, your choice

Sharp edges and how to cover them is import and again no biggy

Properly mounted seats

Correct seatbelt height and strong mounts

Dash radius

Cycle wing coverage of front wheels lights correct positions and rear view mirrors

Exhaust noise at 2/3 max power rpm

Speedo reading slightly higher than actual speed but not lower at 10mph intervals to 70

That is about the main points