Starter Motor Woes

[Dave Ed]

Hi guys. I'm at the stage in my rewire /rebuild where I am tryingto get my engine to turn over.

The problem I have is that nothing is happening, no solonoid click or dimming of the lights etc

I've got a good earth from battery to the starter body where it attaches on the chassis.

Power from the battery to the solonoid and feeding power to the loom.

A single cable that provides power once ignition is on.

A connection from the solonoid to the starter motor.

I thought that was all I needed, I have noticed that the single cable is permanently live on second ignition position where as I thought it should be on the sprung loaded position only. Regardless of that it should still be turning over right?

I'm getting absolutely nothing. Not even the click from the solonoid.

 

The engine hasn't run for several years but turns over by hand.

[Dave R]

earth cable from chassis to engine ?

[Dave Ed]

I'll have to double check but I'm sure its good

[speedtripledan]

Have you got the switched feed on the right bit of the solenoid, if you have the right wire from the key it should only be live when the key is turned to the sprung position.

[Guest 2b cruising]

if no noise at all is heard it sounds like a faulty solenoid. Especially if you have full voltage.

Connect a jump lead to the main starter post but make sure it is safe from earthing out. Then connect it to the battery positive.

If your starter engages it more or less confirms your solenoid is at fault.

HTH Ken.

[Dave Ed]

OK I'll try that. Any ideas about the ignition.

Should I only get 12v during the sprung loaded part of the ignition?

[Guest 2b cruising]

Yes. Just find the correct live on full tuned key terminal on ignition switch. Feed it from they.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Turned and that. Just washed me ands and can't do a thing with them.

[Dave Ed]

Right. That's what I thought.

Cheers

[cb750]

2nd position provides power for ignition and any switched power requirements. Sprung loaded position (start) provides power to the solenoid coil to energise solenoid which then connects battery power to the starter motor

[fry61]

It's possible to strip down the solenoid --- probably needs a good clean & re-facing of the main contacts -- BUT DO un-solder the coil wire from its post BEFORE trying to open the can; if not done you will break the coil lead & need to unwind/re-wind the whole coil in order to get a tail out. ( HOW do I know this ??)

 

The starter is easier to dis-mantle , put witness marks on the case first -- brushes can be removed & the comm cleaned/polished with 1000g W&D --- re-lub the phosphor bronze bearings with oil & re-assemble.

 

Did Florin's starter 30k miles back & still fine.

[Longboarder]

Doesn't sound like you have the correct wiring at BOTH ends of the switching wire. Many starters have two 'small' wire terminals on the solenoid as well as the pair of big terminals. The big terminals are straightforward. One is connected by a fat red wire to the battery. One is connected to a fat (possibly braided wire that dives straight into the starter motor.

Here is a picture of one common type. The small bolt terminal is a bypass feed to the coil and is not used! The lower blade terminal is the switching terminal which needs to be live only when you turn the ignition switch to its start/sprung position.

 

At the ignition switch end you need to attach the other end of the switching wire to the correct terminal. The ignition switch terminals are labelled R, 15, 30, 50.

50 is the terminal you must use. It only becomes live when you turn the ignition key to the cranking position. The wire on it will be black/blue. Look at the size of this wire on your ignition switch. Look at the size of the red one on terminal 30 and the size of the black/yellow on terminal 15. This is the size of the wire you should use for your switching wire. (Or better still wire in a relay closer to the solenoid and spare the ignition switch some stress). But lets keep it simple for now.

 

Nigel

 

I can't rule out a duff solenoid but wrong wiring at both ends and wrong terminal I'm betting!

Edited March 13, 2015 by Longboarder

[Dave Ed]

I've definitely got the solonoid correct as per your picture.

I'll have to look at the wiring at the switches to confirm its wrong.

I have had slow starting in the past but that was before the rewire.

[Les Welsher]

Just finished doing a diagram, as usual Nigel beat me to it

 

 

If you breifly short across the battery terminal on the solenoid and the switch terminal the solenoid the solenoid should click and the starter should operate. If no click happens the solenoid is duff or a good earth is not present.

 

 

Les

[fry61]

 

I have had slow starting in the past but that was before the rewire.

 

That suggests to me -- a high earth resistance or high solenoid contact resistance.

 

In Nigel's photo the coil wire to un-solder is in solder blob shown at bottom right -- if you try a re-furb.