Rivet Drill Size

[nelmo]

Got a box of 3.2mm rivets from GBS for my kit and, typically, my drill kit has a 3mm and 3.5mm drill bit but not 3.3mm.

 

I've drilled a test hole and with the 3.5mm bit, the rivet, as you'd expect, sits a little loosely in the hole.

 

I haven't got any spare metal yet to do a test with but will the rivet be firm enough once popped? Or should I really get a 3.3mm bit?

Edited July 20, 2015 by nelmo

[Guest Paul Morgan]

You really need to buy a 3.3mm or 1/8inch drill bit

[Guest 2b cruising]

Yes, imperial 1/8 bit.

Should not be to difficult.

Must still be using, or buying old stock.

They are supposed to be sending me new stone guards and rivets.

That means I had better get one ready for the job.

[Nigel Rogers]

Hi,

 

A Zeus book is really handy, they are available from Amazon and eBay. You can also print this out http://www.green-oval.com/data/zeus.pdf

[Guest 2b cruising]

Thanks for the tip Nige.

[knights_templar]

you can get 3.2 rivit drills, usually double ended

[David S]

I got 3.2mm drill bits from B&Q when I built mine.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Looks like B&Q for me as going for garden muck this week.

[Guest iank]

Nelmo,

 

I'd suggest you get several 3.3mm drill bits. I bought mine in boxes of 10 from a local engineering suppliers. Only HSS, but also only £5 a box.

[tractor]

I bought a set off shopping channel drills through brick metal wood and tiles and ten year guarantee sorted☺☺☺☺

[ozz]

I bought 5 cobalt ones very expensive broke them all! Iank's advice is right.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Problem with drilling stainless is that the molecules are very rarely equal in texture.

Hit a small piece of chrome when drilling and this is what does your tip no good.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Just bought a set of 10 double ended on eBay. £4.95.

Will probably go through them all in one trial LoL.

[Grim]

Problem with drilling stainless is that the molecules are very rarely equal in texture.

Hit a small piece of chrome when drilling and this is what does your tip no good.

 

Common grades of stainless steel are structurally uniform (with the exception of titanium or niobium stabilised grades, such as 316Ti which these chassis are not made of). Sometimes it is possible to adversely affect stainless steel by heating between 450 to 800°C to form carbon-chromium intermetallics (C₆Cr₂₃ amongst others), but that's a greater corrosion problem than a machining problem.

 

The reason many people have problems drilling stainless is that the rate of work hardening of austenitic stainless steel is very high, i.e. it gets stronger/harder when you deform it, so bent tube sections are going to be more difficult to drill. In addition to this, the area under your drill bit gets work hardened, so ideally you need to drill a hole in 1 attempt, rather than lifting off and reapplying pressure. The lower the speed the better, 50 - 200rpm approx. Always use lube.

Edited July 22, 2015 by Grim

[nelmo]

Nelmo,

 

I'd suggest you get several 3.3mm drill bits. I bought mine in boxes of 10 from a local engineering suppliers. Only HSS, but also only £5 a box.

Yup, exactly what I've done

 

Thanks all...