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Pinto Firing Order Sanity Check

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Afternoon all - I'm getting dangerously close to being able to fire up the 2.0 EFI pinto in my build for the first time and am just wanting to do a quick sanity check that the firing order is correct please.

 

The engine was running fine (video to prove) just before it came out of the car it was in - and neither the Dizzy or cam belt have been touched since it last ran (I believe late 2012 early 2013). I have been putting oil down the bores and turning it over every few months since.

 

I have just replaced the dizzy cap with one of those transparent ones and bought new accuspark leads and new plugs for it.

 

Set piston 1 (nearest rad) to TDC and removed the rocker cover to make absolutely sure neither valves were open. Checked the timing marks on crank and cam, both look right:-

 

20160926_224012_zpsv2kkdcyo.jpg

 

So the rotor arm should be pointing at the lead for plug No.1 as I understand it.

 

When I look through the (now) transparent dizzy cap - it looks like this:-

 

20160926_224101_zpsgv7izyst.jpg

 

It strikes me that the rotor arm (which spins clockwise as I understand it?) has gone a fair way past the terminal it's closet too? Is this right?

 

I know the ignition fires before TDC, but turning the crank backwards until the rotor arm actually lines up with terminal post moves the cam pulley pointer waaaaaaay past the little dot on the head.

 

I suspect it must be right though and the connection at the top of the pic is plug 1 - it just seems a little odd? So continuing around clockwise it would be this for the leads as it's 1-3-4-2?:-

 

numbered_zpsyqsilxq3.jpg

 

 

Cheers

Tony :)

 

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yup firing order is 1342.

Put the old cap back on.....make sure the HT connectors are in the same place as with

the transparent cap......

if so, and you DEFINITELY havent changed anything, just try firing it up.

Loosen the dizzy clamp & get ready to turn it if it doesnt fire.

 

Try finding borrowing stealing or buying a strobe to help

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Thanks Bob - I did put the 2 caps together (end to end and then looked through the transparent one) just to be certain that it was an exact replacement and it seems to be spot on.

 

I guess most peoples are probably like this but the transparent cap just highlights it.

 

I've still got the fuel line to connect onto the rail and a couple of other little jobs before fire-up, but as you suggest -will probably try it with the original cap first and then if it runs nicely just swap back and see if the transparent one is fine too.

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With the cam and crank line up on TDC the rotor arm should line up with the marking

on the dizzy body

post-936-0-77120700-1475002034_thumb.jpg

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Now thats clever.....I never knew that!

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Lots of members locally so if you have a problem one of us can come have a look and help you get it setup and running.

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Looking at your rotor, the spark burn marks dictate that it fire in the a/clockwise direction as you look from the top.

That would be the bang on position for number one as you have marked number 1.

The spark jumps quite a distance before the rotor is exactly in line.

Did you keep the old leads and cap together as a unit so you can compare.

I'm sure the cam would turn the same way as any pinto anchor. Therefore the top of the dizzy drive gear would tell you the dor, or just turn over the engine just a little or eve the two turns back to your timing marks.

You will se the dor through the cap.

Definitely the correct said firing order but if dor is different you will need to alter your leads.

Hope this helps and not confuses. Ken.

Edited by 2b cruising

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I think you are correct in thinking it turns clockwise in the picture. If that picture has been taken with the engine at TDC for number 1 cylinder then the dizzy drive has been inserted about 45 degrees or 2 or 3 teeth back from where it should have been. At TDC ford shows the rotor arm pointing at about 5 o'clock. So you could gently remove the dizzy, turn the rotor arm 45 degrees and refit so it points at 5o'clock. Bolt it down till it grips and then rotate the dizzy body till the centre of the rotor arm points to the mark in the rim of the dizzy. The timing should then be about right enough to be able to start the engine and allow you to fettle the timing with a timing light/strobe.

 

Nigel

 

Poor pic but that is about where it should be at TDC.

post-21-0-20788800-1475059750_thumb.jpg

Edited by Longboarder

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Thanks for the replies all.

 

I checked last night and there is no mark on the Distributor body (or the spare one) to show where the rotor arm should be at No1 TDC unfortunately. I think you maybe have just been lucky Chris that somebody has marked yours? :-

 

20160927_214709_zpswwjula56.jpg

 

 

I went with this diagram showing direction of rotation when engine is running:-

 

4773865200508250955%201_zpsfjviviv9.jpeg

 

When I turn the crank on the engine clockwise as it shows in the diagram, the rotor arm moves clockwise - again as it shows in the diagram, so fairly comfortable with that.

 

As mentioned, I do still have the original cap and will pop that on when the time comes to try and fire it up.

 

I'm sure this doubt has only come along due to the transparent cap?! I bet if I'd just re-used the original cap, I would have seen the rotor arm roughly in the vicinity of the lead and not worried about it too much when the cap was back on?

 

Nigel - The engine was all timed up and running perfectly (see video below) the day it came out and the timing/dizzy position etc haven't been touched since - so I'm struggling to think how the rotor could now be 45 degrees out? Have you got a link to where it shows the rotor arm sitting at 5'o'clock at all please?

 

http://vid68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/FERRINO/2B%20Kit%20Car/Pinto%20engine_zpsmz5csygw.mp4

 

Cheers

Tony

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the replies all.

 

Chris that somebody has marked yours?

Nope no one has marked mine its a factory marking.

The 3 dizzies I have 1 in the kit 1 in the spare engine and the 1 on the spares shelf

all have the same mark cut into the body

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If you have not manually moved the dizzy then things have got to be right.

If the leads on original cap have not been disconnected then run

it up on that first, then copy the lead set out on your new cap, refit and run up without worries.

The only thing that can hurt your engine timing wise would be valve/cam timing.

Once again if that has not been touched, leave alone.

Only one thing now causes me any concern would be the cam belt condition after being used for an unknown amount of miles, then left unmoved for all your build period.

I would change it before fitting the engine as it is far easier and more accessible for you to re-time.

Just remember after citing, turn the engine over manually amg make sure there is no resistance in turning it at any point except for the compression if you have the plugs in.

Then check all your marks still line up.

Ken.

PS. I have a decent strobe it you would like to borrow it through the post it is available for you, just as it would be to any club member.

Edited by 2b cruising

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How did you turn the engine over when it was stored?

If you used a spanner on the cam pulley it's possible its slipped on the cam belt and is one or two teeth out now.

I know it can happen because someone exactly like me (OK, it was me) did the same thing with the engine installed.

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This usually only happens when you turn it backwards due to the adjuster not doing its job on the long straight throw. All your timing marks are correct at time of photoe's so no such problem exsists on yours.

Ps, if you want to turn it backward apply pressure to the long throw by pushing it in with your hand. This prevents slippages/jumping teeth.

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Sorry. Mixed up the orientation of your photos. In my brain I am looking at it standing behind the left front wheel at the side of the car. Rotor arm position is correct confirmed by the drawing of the dizzy top in your thread four above. Viewed from in front it's a 2 o'clock. Viewed from the side it's at 5. It doesn't seem to line up with the dizzy body and cap contact so it would still seem that something is odd.

 

Nigel

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