No Spark , Help

[Guest deebee 55]

No offence taken here either , you were not to know what this box of bits was like , as i said ,today the engine burst into life this is the first time it has run in what must be ten years or more since it left the factory ,

today i took the tank out and tipped the water out got the pump working , tomorrow i intend to lay in the fuel lines can anyone tell me the correct way to fit them to the engine

also i am left with a whole load of steel bits i have looked at several different pictures online some seem to show a separate bulk-head to which various bits hang on like ecu header tank and some seem to show them being attached to the tunnel come dash board

just one more question , i have a whole load of hoses with the car and would like to know which goes where its a non heater model

thanks in advance

dave

[alanrichey]

For the bulkhead it's dealers choice I know some people have mounted everything direct to the firewall some others have put in a separate, removable, bulkhead. Personally I would think to the future when you might have to remove something, You need to make sure you will have access to the back of the bulkhead later in life.

 

I assume you have done a search for 'Superspec' on the forum for all the advice given ? This thread http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=43510&hl=) covered some of the problems I had, and includes a 'wiring diagram' for the cooling system. Might get you started,

 

You REALLY need to come and see a completed model to see how it all hangs together, and take a million photographs. I'm more than happy to provide that service, or even meet up somewhere half way if it's a nice day You would be my 4th new Superspec owner to come and check it over.

[Guest lotusPaul]

In that case great..my apologies I thought the worst straight away. I assumed and wrongly I'll addmit, that engine would be a NO starter. Thankfully it's working.

I was only trying to suggest a new crate engine with aftermaket injection may have been a quicker solution,

Clearly I was wrong on that.

Hope you get years of service from the (lotus) rover engine.

Good luck with it.

[AndyW]

Dave -

On mine, the red & yellow fuel lines come through the tunnel and connect into 5/16" green fuel hoses under the throttle body.

- red from fuel tank goes to IN on a large metal fuel filter can. Mine is mounted vertically on the end of the pedal box, but I've seen others mounted horizontally on the side chassis rail.

- another green hose goes from filter OUT to the end of the fuel rail at the back of the engine under the plenum chamber and behind the inlet manifold.

- on the front engine end of the fuel rail is the pressure regulator. The bottom outlet on this connects with another green fuel hose pipe that returns to the yellow pipe under the throttle and then back to fuel tank.

 

As Al says, everyone's bulkhead seems to be different depending on how the builder arranged everything. Everything on mine is mounted on the engine side of the bulkhead. From driver's side across I have - brake servo, brake fluid reservoir, ECU, coolant expansion tank, & coil. Some relays and the fuses are also mounted around my coil, with the battery on a tray in front, but others have all the electrics under the scuttle in the passenger footwell.

 

In terms of cooling hoses the system as designed by RHE is a bit of a bodge. Essentially the pipework looks as in this photo, although every one is different!

http://car-us.com/img/source/big/161348627999_4.jpg

- thermostat large outlet to top right radiator inlet using large 90 & 270 deg hoses and steel/ali pipe across the top of the rad.

- front bottom left radiator outlet into large 90 deg hose up and into long steel/ali pipe along side of chassis rail then large 180 deg U hose down into water pump inlet.

- thermostat rear outlet has medium hose to metal water rail under exhaust manifold. This would normally go to the heater but if you don't have one it goes with more medium dia hose to a tee piece above the starter and then hose comes up into bottom of expansion tank through steel panel.

- thermostat small top front outlet goes via small hose / small bore copper pipe / small hose into the top side inlet on the expansion tank.

- small outlet at left side of radiator connects to the lower side outlet on the expansion tank. Goes via a small hose along the left chassis rail.

- small outlet in centre top of radiator goes via a stainless or copper 15mm pipe across the top of the engine and down to join the tee with the water rail above the starter. You should have some sort of filller/air bleed valve in this pipe as it's the highest point of the system.

 

Having described the RHE setup I think it's fair to say that many people have had problems with this system with slow warm-up, air locks and over cooling. Al and I have ongoing discussions about how best to redesign the coolant system. We think the water is always circulating through the radiator and expansion bottle all the time, as there is no heater return into the pump which would normally be used for quick warm-up.

 

As Al says - find your nearest Superspec and go and take photos.

 

Andy

[Guest deebee 55]

Andy , brilliant reply thanks certainly given me stuff to work on , i guess this is thing with kits they can all be different and there are no hard and fast rules its quite strange to me this being my first and having spent many years working at a rover main dealers to suddenly be faced with having to make it up as you go along

 

, in the work shops everything was done by the book it had to be , in building this to be faced with a wiring loom that for all tence and purpose was designed by a professional for a specific job to work perfectly and then given to a kit builder and expect them to start pulling it apart to make something different is quite unnerving at first , its a bit like taking a book and jumbling all the words up to make a completely different story , and what a good story some of these kit guys seem to make .

cheers

[alanrichey]

.... having spent many years working at a rover main dealers to suddenly be faced with having to make it up as you go along

 

I don't suppose you have any documentation on the MEMS 1,6 ?

[Guest deebee 55]

No alan sorry , my time in the trade was ended just prior to the advent of ecu's i left and went into a different form of business altogether thats why i'm in the dark so to speak with ecu's etc , just as a foot note have you come across a solvent to remove the protection on the stainless as the stuff on this car is almost impossible to remove after ten or so years iv'e tried all things known to man so far , cheers

[alanrichey]

Oh well, worth a try, As far as we can see all the documentation was shipped to China in the mid-90s there to disappear without trace.

 

No idea on the solvent I'm afraid as I bought mine ready-built. Arthrev might have a idea, unless they haven't removed their protection yet,

[AndyW]

This old forum posting has some suggestions for removing uv baked panel covering. I've not tried any but would be interest to know if any work.

 

http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=20464

[AndyW]

Btw practice on a non-visible part first. If you damage the shiny surface of the stainless steel it's impossible to get it back.

[cb750]

I rubbed the film with a plastic handle of a small screwdriver to stress the baked on film and a lot of it flaked off, I then poured cellulose thinners on to it to remove the rest. Practice on a hidden part first! If the film has still got some flexibility then a hot air gun helps to soften the adhesive and allows you to peel the film off. It took me half a day to get the film off a bonnet!

[Guest deebee 55]

Thanks Andy , looks like mission impossible guess i might leave it on and who knows start a trend !!

Edited October 3, 2016 by deebee 55

[Bob Tucker]

I used boiling water to remove plastic logos from various local Council vehicles.

I guess a steam cleaner may work even better?

 

Be careful!!!!

not just personally but try it on a spare part first.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Acetone but carefull with your skin.

Decent chemical gloves not just the doctor type.

[tractor]

used to work with acetone all day long never wore gloves

was young and stupid though