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Zetec And Electric Water Pump Still Overcooling


speedtripledan

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Guest lotusPaul

Dan i mean no power to it. It will stop it moving the coolant.

 

Essentially there are 2 flows, hot and cold.

 

Cold is pre thermostat opening. Hot is stat open and going through rad, to cool it.

 

Simplify this equation. So no matter what a pump is doing, the stat controls flows to rad, a continuous open and close action.

 

To much flow will not allow adequate conduction of heat to the coolant. Too little will create the opposite.

 

Stats job is to allow a rapid warmup of engine and maintain an optimum working temperature.

 

So going by this if pump was too much flow, you wouldnt get adequate cooling.. i add TO A POINT.

 

It seems you may have a flow issue whereby the coolant may be bypassing the stat or its not being effective.

 

So i would suggest disconnect the electric pump. And see what happens to temps.

 

Id be interested in results to further diagnose

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When I say i.m going to run a bypass 15mm hose it will have a valve in it to control flow from 0 to 100%. I appreciate what you are all contributing but if I have to replace the stat back in to the system it renders the exercise semi pointless as the pump and controler were meant to be able to do this hense the point of fitting it. I will try the stat out of interest thou

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Dan, putting a round peice of ali plate with a hole in positioned where the stat goes stands a much better chance of solving your problem properly than putting the stat back in or fitting the bypass hose.

 

And you'll still have full temp control via the ewp and controller thus the ewp exercise won't be semi-pointless.

Edited by steamer
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Try 10 then 8mm. That's some efficient system.

Checking the obvious, you have got the circulation in the right direction? Polarity of pump correct so it's not running backwards? The positioning of the control sender makes a major difference. Top hose or bottom hose although just where in those hoses is minor.

 

Interesting that it still maintains 75deg despite the halving of pipe diameter. Surely that should have allowed a rise in temp, even if only a degree or two. Just a niggling suspicion that it's doing its job fine but it thinks 75deg is the set temperature, despite what you are doing with the controls, and it's maintaining that.

 

Presumably you have the controls to choose the max/min temperatures you want it to run. What are these currently set at?

 

Nigel

Edited by Longboarder
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An interesting suggestion! Block off half the rad. Don't change anything else and have a drive. With half it's previous cooling capacity the temperature must change unless the DC pump adjusts to still maintain 75C. If it does that then it would prove that it's working fine and is still internally set on 75deg.

 

Nigel

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i now have the 82stat back in and have run a bypass from pre stat to bottom hose using 15mm hose (bypassing the rad) the car heats up quicker and on a short drive i now have 82deg dropping slightly when i was slowed done by doddering old codgers who like to drive at 25mph everywhere.

 

the same result was achieved without the stat also.

 

when i 1st got the car this was how the builder had plumbed the heater matrix in and it caused the car to overheat big time on the motorway, so this proves the new rad / pump combo are so much more efficient than the original polo rad and mech pump.

 

i,m waiting for an 88stat from burtons, which i will try and see if it raises it that be more to where i want it.

 

long term a 42mm rad instead of a 55mm would prob be better and i should of got the ewp 80 pump instead of the 115 (http://www.mawsolutions.com gave me bad advice) but its to late the money is spent, i may well buy these bits and sell the other bits on.

 

http://www.daviscraig.com.au are a bunch of two hats and dont want to know, they sent a generic email that is to be found all over the internet from others suffering my problems. there pumps are basically for hot climates such as Australia and big race v8s, not cold climates like the uk and 4pot engines, unless of coarse you have major over heating issues.

 

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk who i bought the pump from are advising me that my engine is fine to run at 75deg just so long as it dosent overheat. still awaiting a response from them having explained how engine cooling is actually meant to work.

 

Coolex on the other hand are absolutely brilliant, rang them and spoke to the owner and he was puzzled by the situation, he has only ever had people come to him with overheating issues which his rads have always sorted, never has he encountered his products overcooling, He actually offered to take my 55mm back and supply me the 42mm rad free, now that is customer service! i wont take him up on this as it would be unfair on them.

 

The long and short of this situation is the raceline water rail is a pile of crap, if i had of known this years ago i would have removed it and used the ford housing or a retro ford version and never have ventured down this road.

 

so far there is only 1 advantage to DC pump and controller system and that is the run on feature when you stop the engine, where it will flow and run the fan until it gets the temp down to <10deg of set point.

 

Got to love kit cars !!

Edited by DanE
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Guest lotusPaul

Dan.

 

I think your being unfair on the raceline water rail. I and many have used this in rwd conversions several times and it is a great item. I think your issues lay else where if im honest.

The rail may seem a culprit because it potentialy has a large change on effect.

 

Incidently and on another note, zetecs are designed to run at higher oil temps. If you lower the overall working temp the oil will not get to its optimum and this will cause premature wear.

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