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speedtripledan

Zetec And Electric Water Pump Still Overcooling

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new Spec 2.0L zetec with 243bhp

55mm coolex polo derived rad

raceline water rail

davis craig ewp 115 electric pump and controller

 

old spec as above except standard zetec mechanical pump and 82deg thermostat

 

In the old spec the car would take for ever to warm up to the 82deg sat on the drive idling, if you pulled away before getting to temp it could take 15miles to get to 80 and if you were on a long steady run the temp would drop to just below 80deg, i want it to be 85deg. getting stats to fit, in the right temp is getting awkard as they are old ford xflow fitment so i thought i would try something different

 

i have now fitted the new ewp pump and controller, and the problem is worse!! the cars warms up at idle a lot quicker, it sits there holding temp perfectly with the fan and pump doing what they should.

I go for a drive and boom the temp drops from 90 to 75 and will not raise until i stop driving then it creeps up to set point and maintains it.

 

This car used to have an old polo type rad which used to maintain the temps just but was always marginal when you started to raise the pace it would heat up and barely keep things cool, hence the change to the coolex 55mm,

 

Does the rad have to large a volume and too large a surface area? every time the pump pulses, is it shooting a large volume of cold water round the system which is to much for the engine heat produced?

 

Is the pump sending to much water round the system? both mech and elec pump did the same effectively. only difference is the mech had a stat the elec dosent its meant to be controlled electronically.

Is the raceline water rail causing some sort of issue?

 

Is the fact that car has so much torque and power now that i,m not driving it hard enough to generate enough heat?

 

both coolex and davis craig recommended the rad size and pump to suit the car and its engine spec.

 

Not sure what to do now any ideas and opinions please

 

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Just a thought... have you tried covering part of the rad to see if that helps? If so then the rad could be too good.

Nick

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As above gaffer tape the rad in small increments, had to do this on a friends Formula Ford for winter meetings

Edited by mower man

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Have you tried contacting Davis Craig and asked them if they have come across this before?

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Yes I've emailed them, not ringing as they are in Australia. Awaiting a response

Also spoke to coolex who haven't come across the issue and find it very strange!

Edited by DanE

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Are you 100 per cent sure the gauge is accurate? If the stat or the electronic gizmo aren't giving the correct temperature it seems a bit strange. Surely one of them should work properly. They should control the engine temperature and compensate for over cooling by closing off the flow. Or that's what I thought anyway. Years ago loads of people would blank off parts of their radiators in the winter.

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Have you removed the old mechanical pump? If its still in circuit it will have an effect.

 

Can you do a diagram of the cooling circuit please. Include all parts, pipes etc.

 

Nigel

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Plumbing is bottom rad outlet to electric pump inlet, pump outlet feeds into mechanical pump (impeller removed) that then exits head to race line rail which in turn feeds out to top rad inlet. No stat

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I'm guessing the sensor for the pump is in the rail close as poss to the outlet on the back of the head?

 

Nigel

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