magh

As above what exactly is the problem with using the moutney steering wheel for the iva as every says to use the standard Sierra one but I'm struggling with getting enough clearance between the Sierra wheel and my seat to actually get my legs in the car.

I have a spare 2b stainless one?

Not quite the same but maybe of some help I have a pinto with a denso alternator but in a 2b and just made my own bracket as I wanted to tuck it in as much as possible and it worked really well for me. Some pics will help.

That does look rather good may be the route I have to do down. Although mine is stainless so will be a challenge. As mentioned that picture shows the dash pushed fully up already to gain as much material in the corners so once the top is trimmed with leave a very narrrow height and I will struggle to mount my larger gauges between the top tube and steering coloumn. Hopefully it's just the wrong one sent out as I really do like the style but I'm not hopeful.

I rang kit spares today and explained my situation they said the dash will need training to fit couldn't quite get across that there wasn't enough on it to start with let alone trim it. They said send some photos over which I have and they will get back to me next week. Slightly disappointed with that as I'm heading to the show in Sunday so could of swooped it there but they didn't seem keen on that. Yeah I have already looked at the gulf thread and agree that bonnet is a lot more rounded and not flat on the top either.

Thanks guys. Yes the alligator style is a terrible design. Currently it is all one piece but I will be cutting the rear to create a permanent scuttle then the remaining bonnet hinge forward in the nose cone. Well I know I ordered the 2b dash from them for definite so I may have to get in touch as I did think it looked very much the shape of the zero. Only problem was I ordered some time ago now.

Hey guys looking for some advice I'm battling away in the garage trying to get the car ready for next year ( Going to be the wedding car ) why I dropped myself into it I don't know lol. Anyhow the other night I have paired the nose one to the bonnet pretty successfully too. When it comes to the dash end it almost seems like the bonnet is just too wide. The sides won't follow the dash tube as the top would be circular and if the tops flat the sides pop out and to top it off I purchased a grp dash from gbs for the Robin Hood and it just doesn't look like it has enough meat on it to do anything with. Any help/advice would be much appreciated or pics of how others had / fitted there bonnet would be great thanks guys.

When I tested mine one pin is earth, one is connected to earth when float is up i.e. Fluid full so bit connected this and the other connect to earth when float drops e.g. Fluid empty which I turn provides the earth for my warning light.

No I haven't they had just been fitted car is still undergoing major build stages lol. I run a small facet pump and a reg set at 2 or 2.5 can't remember now but my pump doesn't shut off I know that.

I have r1 carbs on my pinto and they are the same although I haven't had them set up properly. So will keep an eye on this

Evening chaps after some advice I have searched the site but not quite found the answer. I have a early gbs zero loom now I've got this fully labelled as to what is what after a day with a multimeter lol. The stalks I have on the car are 87bg and I also have some 90bg thrown in the spares box. From what I understand my loom is positive switching but these stalks are negative as only the 83 was positive but they can be wired to work for me. All I basically need or so I think is a pin layout for the stalks and what wire needs connecting to which e.g. 56a main 56b dip etc unless someone has a diagram that would be great as I can't seem to find one. I got a brilliant one for the 83 but think the pin layout is different but please correct me if I am wrong as electrics is not my strong point. Many thanks Mike.

Yeah that looks to be the case I'm heading into the garage this evening so hopefully I can have a look and remove the tab. Then I can fabricate some form of support bracket to strengthen it as it passes through the side panel.

Thanks for the help guys. Yes the tabs are just tacked on I think once removed it will still hit but can always send these back and go the banjo route.

No there just loose won't align anymore due to brake line been in the way.

Never gave the banjo bolt setup a thought. Just frustrating when you order these from kitspares and they hit. I had already thought about making a bracket but the line doesn't have much flex so close to the fitting and it aims directly at the center of the bracket tube.

As title suggests people how have people got around this as when I wind the braided hose into the caliper and swing the mudguard bracket into place it fowls the hose completely. Cheers Mike.

Bogg brothers at weaverthorpe, North Yorkshire

I purchased the same item although it was only £29.99 at my local store.

I use the 2wire tyco/amp connectors brilliant little plugs.

I've got an early gbs loom in my 2b pinto I'll take some pics tomorrow for you

Barry is that the one your posting me?

Use a sleeve over the bolt the thickness off the foam thus stopping the bolt squashing the foam.

I'll take the Haynes. Can you pm me your PayPal please.

Pics may be more useful to jog people's memory.

Cheers guys I've re drilled it today so it all lines up now. Which tiger rod do I need the long or short it's a ka master to Sierra pedals