Nigel Rogers

Hi All, The alternator feed wire to the battery that I removed from my donor is too short. It's also 7mm in dia, looking in Halfords (coz that's where was open) they were selling 3mm dia wire for alternator feed to battery. Please can someone tell me what diameter/amp capacity wire I need to buy to rewire my alternator feed? p.s I have a small japanese (I think) alternator. Many Thanks Nige

I'm sure a good "tin basher" would get that bonnet back to the right shape and fit you a Bubble/Scoop. Why not try ringing round a few metal fabricators from the Yellow Pages. Cheers Nige

Thanks Trev, I am glad I asked, I was wiring my amplifier up as shown on the NW site Inductive Dizzy and presumed the order the wires are shown was as they connect to the pins It hadn't actually entered my head that it was drawn with reference to the wire colours. It was only last night when I started wiring the Amplifier up I realised it may not be the case Cheers Nige

Hi, I know it sounds like a daft question but I don't have a plug for my amplifier and looking at all the diagrams I've convinced myself it could be the pin at either end that goes to the battery. Please can someone tell me, when looking at the Amplifier with the Motorcraft word the right way up and the pins facing the floor, is it the wire at the "M" end of the word Motorcraft (left side) that goes to the battery? Many Thanks Nige

Hi, My donor was a 1.8 CVH and came with a Pieburg and I have a VV carb off a 1.6L, but I don't believe I can use either of these, so I really need something cheapish for the 2.0L. Before I start bidding on Ebay again. I thought I would ask if any one had one going spare that they were willing to sell. Condition doesn't matter as long as it's complete. Many Thanks Nige Many Thanks - Now Sorted (Hopefully!) Edited 21st May

Hi, Do you mean the mount as shown here? topic http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?s=&a...ost&p=99192, Cheers Nige

I still have the front crossmember from my donor. Before I throw it away, does anyone want it? Free - but "buyer" collects. Cheers Nige

I am wiring up my Pinto Engine (1988 2Ltr with Bosch Dizzy & Motorcraft Amplifier) using the wiring loom from my CVH donor. Which is proving to be interesting So far the following questions have arisen, and I hope someone can help . 1) Am I right in thinking that if I make my circuits reflect the Blue Haynes Manual P100 starting & ingnition diagram, I wont go far wrong? 2) I have a small alternator (unknown origin, but new) this is similar to a denso type as shown on the NW site, but it has two of the three pins labelled F & N. Any idea how I can determine whcih connection should feed the ignition light? 3) The donor had an imobiliser module and alarm that I want to dispose of. Are there any pitfalls to watch out for, or do I just bypass any wires that feed these units? Many Thanks Nige

If Steve's 205 belt isn't suitable, I've got a Sierra inertia belt you can have. Cheers Nige

Hi Andy, If Tom 2B doesn't take the carb, I'd like to buy it. Many Thanks Nige

Nige, I haven't got a connector plug to fit my amplifier either. I've been told you can use spade connectors to conect it up. I'm a bit worried how to protect the connections from the elements though . Cheers Nige

Thanks for all your replies Decision made - I've cut down the alternator bracket from the CVH for the small alternator. I'll bolt and weld the alternator bracket to some 5mm steel plate. Should be strong enough Cheers Nige

Hi All. How strong does an alternator bracket need to be? I am just about to make up a bracket to install a small non (Japanese ) alternator, but the alternator bracket I've got from the old CVH, looks like it's a left over bit of the Forth Bridge! Do alternator brackets need to be seriously beefy or will something made out of 3 or 4mm steel plate be up to the job. WDYT? Many Thanks Nige

Hi, As enforcer says, your panel is mounted too far up. Looking at the top of the panel, the top "step" just in from the roll bar should be folded 90 deg and touch the top rail (where the seat belt mounts are) Then fold the piece near the floor so the panel fits in. You then bolt/rivet the back panel to the floor and fasten it to the chassis where it touches. Cheers Nige

Would squeezing the cross tube (butchering it) in the same way as RHSC did on the vertical part of the chassis, on the RH front side in order to clear the steering column, give you enough clearance? Nige

Hi All, Just about to install brake lines in the engine bay (2B4). I had intended to run the pipe for the front left brake, from the master cylinder across the back of the bay under the cross tube infront of the firewall to the left side of the car. Due to the proximity of the cylinder head and gearbox bell housing. Does anyone think that the heat in this area likely to cause problems with braking efficiency? Cheers Nige

Steve, Thanx You have PM Cheers Nige

Just about to refit the cylinder head, the engine is out of the car and I don't have a stand. I have torq type bolts, so need to do the 3 stage torquing procedure. I am not worried about doing the first 2 stages, but don't fancy trying to apply the extra 90 degrees with the engine on the floor. Can anyone confirm that I shouldn't have any problems if I leave the 3rd stage tightening, until I get the engine back in the car? Many Thanx Nige

I think it all depends on how you are financing your build and how much time you can dedicate to it. My build is slow but steady. Fitting in building a kit car with work and family, I spend about 6 hours a week in the garage, this isn't going to get my car built very quickly, but then again I have time to save up some hard earned pennies to buy the stuff I need for the build. I reckon it should cost me under £4K to get it on the road (counting my chickens before they hatch) You could look at it as how much a month can you afford

Many Thanks for all your help & tips, it's much appreciated. Nige

Thanks for your replies I got the old one out using the drill and self tapper method, but then I made the mistake of lubricating the whole seal and it kept popping out just as Andy described. The sump is off the engine at the minute, would it be easier to slacken off the main to fit the new seal? Nige

I'm having a hard time trying to fit a new oil seal at the flywheel end of the crankshaft . Does anyone have any good tips on the easiest/best way to fit a new crankshaft rear seal? Many Thanks Nige

If you could get it for somewhere near the asking price, it could be worth using the parts with a Locost chassis. You could even cut the ally tubs up for the body panels (just don't think about the hard work that went into making them in the first place)

Well done Graham. I like the idea of an article in the club mag. Nige

Can't say what it is (Shacklelton ?) But what on earth would you want it for apart from scrap?