cb750

Yes, the Duratec is Mazda derived so the flywheel and clutch is already sorted if you use the Mazda box.

Thanks, still got quite a lot of work to do, it seems never ending!

Few pictures of where I am with the rebuild. Painted panels now on and most of the trimming completed. Still a way to go: electrics and brake system to be finished, scuttle to be finished and windscreen to be fitted, plus some work in the engine bay. Couldn't sleep so got up at 3 this morning and fitted the nose cone! Note that I haven't got a set of drawers in the back panel !! The chrome strips on the rear wings cover the overlap joint where I have extended the wings Rob

Kevin, cables are measured by number of strands in the core and their diameter, e.g: 196/0.4 gives approx 25 sq. mm. 25 mm cable has a continuous rating of 170 amp (according to my cable book) Rob

Never thought of that Nigel, it looks like I'm back to making the turntable and doing it the normal way! Rob

Yes it's the angle looking in side view I was going to measure and I thought this would give me an accurate caster measurement without making a turntable and going through the 20 degree turning method. I will be using the face of the disc brake (they are new) and measuring the angle of that to give me the camber angle. Rob

With the car on level ground and ride height set where I want it, am I correct in saying that if I follow a method in a previous post for a 2B it will work on my 3A? The method was to simply to measure the angle of the dummy strut in relation to the level ground using a digital angle finder. I was going to use a small vee block set on the exposed part of the dummy strut to give me a flat surface to put the angle finder on. Rob

Gbs list them at £14.52, bit cheaper on ebay

I get at mine from above, with the nosecone off I put my arm through the oval hole that's in the front of the top beam but yours sounds different. Rob

Thanks but that's the type I have at the moment. Rob

Hi, what type of tool is it? Is it like a pop rivet type that you squeeze?

I had them done at Chase Accident Repairs, Cannock, Staffs as I have used them before for motorcycle "plastic" parts. I did some prep work and they did the finishing work prior to spraying. They then sprayed stone guard under the panels, primed, under coated and applied 2-pack finish (mazda mx5 True Red A4A). I paid £350 for the 5 panels which I thought was a good price considering the cost of materials to do it yourself. Turn round was 5 days. Rob

Thanks for the comments. Yes Tony, they are the ones I had off you. Took some time to get them adjusted to cover my wheels the way I wanted but worth it. The 2 parts were trimmed then bonded and stainless countersunk riveted together. Original lighting and stone guard holes filled and redrilled. The joint will be covered by a trim strip. I will post some photos when I have them fitted to the car. Rob

Agree with Dave R, Honda motorcycles have used soldered joints and never seen one fail. Most butt joints are wrapped in with the harness which gives them support but I have never seen a single cable joint fail either.

Collected paintwork today. Very pleased. Now to get round to fitting them! Rear wings have been widened so they cover the wheels properly. First photo shows the parts before painting

Getting closer to getting this long running rebuild on the road! Fibreglass parts at the paint shop for spraying - hope to get them back for the weekend. Will post photo when I have them back. Rebuild seems never ending! Rob

Enjoy the mx5!!! We did when we had one! Rob

Check that the plastic saddle at the bottom of the gear lever (it's fitted on the end of the selector shaft) hasn't broken up

7/16 UNF ?

That's useful ! I've just saved it!

Have a look at where the sierra rear suspension beam attaches to the floor and make sure it's secure. Check the rear suspension top mounting for rigidity, mine had worked loose and was twisting when we bought our car, this had caused cracks to appear at it's mounting points. Look at all the points that Longboarder has said. When looking at the front beam to monocoque welds try putting a light behind the weld and switching the garage lights off, you may see light shining through any cracks in the weld -I did! Also when I bought my 3A there was no support bearing on the bulkhead for the steering column which then gave a very poor steering response (it made me feel at first as if my seat had come loose until I realised what was going on).

Thanks for the figures Jez, that's helped me while I am trying to design my system!

It's recommended to change the small drive shaft at the same time, particularly if you go to high pressure pump. They are a bit weak and have been known to shear off. A high pressure pump shouldn't cause any more leaks as the pressure is in the rotating parts or the filter system, any oil seals or gaskets should just "see" oil throw?

As Snapper, fitted mine in a 3A with no problem including having a winged sump (not big wing type) and the engine mount arms fitted but no manifolds. Did cut the surplus floor away though while the engine was out. Try to fit the engine with the sump on as it's difficult to get it to seal if you fit it afterwards.

Careful when you cut it!!