tractor

Would love to be there but I don't finish work till 6.30 am on a Saturday morning

Tent is up and beer is chilling whoop whooooop

sorry my mistake yes its the temp sensor in the plenum the MAP is usually in the ECU but can be seperate and you connect a vac pipe to it and to the plenum

i aint coming if it aint raining

the GBS plenum also has the exact size thread for the emarald MAP sensor and if you are using the plenum best to use a MAP sensor aswell

Wot plenum and ecu are you running

depends if your on TPS or MAP for your ecu when i was running megajolt i only used TPS but now i run turbo i need TPS and MAP my MAP sensor is from Emerald

GBS sell an off the shelf kit or you can get the self weld kit from retro ford or just buy the plates from ebay and make the rest of it yourself

Not so ford after all eh

I have a spare zetec block

I have only done it on my megasquirt 3 and tunerstudio I think there is a free tunerstudio that you can do the basics on

Start off at 10% btc and gradually work up to 35% btc at about 4k then start retarding gradually to rev limit

You're a bit late to the party Matt think he has found the source of the rattle

You can copy and paste from postimage,org

Mine is supported by a bracket midpoint along the shaft if your's has a bracket then adjust by a couple of mm

postimage.org

if you are on about the old ford DOHC i dont think its worth it

parts needed for cheapest conversion on a 2b with type 9 gearbox zetec 1.8 flywheel re use pinto clutch engine mounts retro ford water rail megajolt M tech vvt controller optional bike carbs or webbers new starter motor zero GT exhaust manifold optional you will also need a new pedal box i used a zero box you will have to get rid of brake servo if you have one

crank pulley bolt 115Nm big end cap bolts 20Nm then turn 90 degrees

My ARP bolts were £££££££

I normally just go with FT and a bit of thread lock

The big end caps or clamps that hold conrod or piston arm onto crank this will reveal one half of the big end bearing and if no deep grooves then all good

That front flywheel is the crank pulley and if the engine is still attached to gearbox then put it in first gear and and make sure hand brake is well on then you should be able to undo it with a breaker bar

I would drop the caps off and look properly as you have the sump off

if you email premier looms im sure they will send you a wiring diagram if not i think there is one on locostbuilders