FERRINO

Nice one Paul - good to hear that. It really was a terrible design flaw I think from Robin Hood with the 2B , not providing proper solid Inner seat belt mount provisions. Fair enough to allow people to mount their seats straight to the floor pan if they want - but not something safety critical like the harness points. Anywho - just in case you are interested, I took all the comments raised above in the thread into account (particularly the captive nut situation) and it's moved along a bit now. I took off some paint and welded a 7/16" nut captive onto the rear of the outer vertical angles (don't have a pic of that but fairly obvious). Took a strip of steel and welded a 7/16 nut to that and fitted it to the inside of the inner angles with countersunk screws each side:- Also - added a DanST prop catcher which fitted perfectly across the new angles. Cable conduit and fuel/brake lines are in now too (had to route them around and under the new centre section which was a bit of a pain - but looks ok now):-

Just to clear this one up - the fitting appears to be the 3/8"bsp version of this:- I ordered the metric one and the bsp version of this and the bsp version seems to be the winner. Cheers Tony

Hi Al - yes certainly. I'll drop you a message in a sec. Cheers Tony

As in title - I bought this off Ebay earlier this week for £36 delivered. It's a brand new old stock genuine Bosch pump 0 580 254 950 (was original fit for injected Mercs in the 90's I believe). I snapped it up as £36 for a brand new genuine Bosch pump is very good. Ebay Link:- http://www.ebay.co.u...49#ht_666wt_904 It's arrived today but on reflection it's just not the correct in/out fittings I was after for my install really. I know you can change the end fittings and the feed line etc but I can't be faffed with all that as I have all my fuel lines in place and sized for something else. Just looking to get back what I paid for it really so will sell it for £35 delivered (UK mainland). Give me a shout if you're interested. Cheers Tony

Thanks Steve, I'll have a look. Is this not the bog standard fitting that all efi's have then? Cheers Tony

Evening all - I was wondering if somebody could tell me the size/type of connector I need to attach to my Injection pinto rail please?:- This is the fitting with a taper that currently connects the rail to the filter:- The fitting that's on it has a tiny hosetail connector and I want to go straight onto the rail with 8mm dia fuel hose (Pre and post pump filters are at the rear of the car). Cheers Tony

Looks great Dan - Are you going to do another pic with the bonnet on?

Hi Alex - I'm not far from you (Rugby) and am building a 2B as well. Like theduck said - get some pics up for us to start with, Cheers Tony

Well said Ian, I totally agree and just cannot see the hysteria behind having to have an age related plate. What's so great about advertising the fact that you have the engine and parts from a 30 year old car under your shiney new paintwork?? I'm purposely going for a Q plate when the build is done for the exact reasons you mentioned above - I think a Q on the plate gives the car a bit of distinction anyway

Money sent - Cheers Ant Tim - they are for the rear coilovers on my big fat lardy 2B lol. I bought some new 200lb springs after doing some research on here and Locostbuilders. But after fitting them on the brand new adjustable spax shocks and bouncing up and down on the frame it's quite clear they are not stiff enough. Several 2B owners on here swear by the 350lb springs on the rear - so I'm going to give them a try. Comfort is not something I'm too bothered about at the moment with this car so willing to give it a go. Cheers Tony

Message sent re 350lb springs. Cheers Tony

The quote I got from our local hobbyweld stockist was as follows:- For the 140mm Diameter by 840mm high bottle (any gas except Acetylene) - £60+vat Deposit (refundable of course when you're finished with it) £30+vat for the gas (137 bar) £30+vat for the Regulator to fit the bottle £10 for adaptor for the small bore tube. Onviously, the regulator and adaptor are yours to keep and the deposit for the bottle is refundable (so is academic anyway). So if I ever did manage to use all of it (debateable as I'm just a hobby/intermittent welder) - then £30 for a gas refill seems pretty reasonable to me seeing as the 60 litre bottles from halfords that last about 10mins are £15. Cheers Tony

Hi Alan - I looked into this very recently too for the same reason. Found on popular welding forums that the gassless wire makes a hell of a mess with splatter everywhere and you can't see the weld pool very well whilst welding when you are using it. The professionals said its only really useful for welding outside where the wind would blow your shielding gas away with conventional MIG. I discounted the idea and instead have looked into the Hobbyweld size bottles which seem to be great value. Cheers Tony http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/gasless-mig.htm

Ahhh brilliant - cheers Nick. So you would use the SAE flare for Imperial fittings then, that was the missing bit of info I couldn't seem to find on the net. Cheers again all Tony

Thanks guys - much appreciated. The male/female thing is not a problem - I know I need males for the 3 way union and the master cylinder etc, its just that there seems to be 2 types of male flare - the DIN and the SAE which have very slightly different profiles (and hence different inserts in this kit). There is a third insert for pushing the tube 'inside' to create the female flare. The DIN male flare seems to have a nice flat bottom where the nut pushes up against it whereas the SAE seems to have a slight angle to the flare at that point. Think I've got it sussed now though - its a bit too late to be heading out and trying a few in the garage now, but will have a practice tomorrow night and post up the results to see what people think if that's ok? I've got Friday off work to totally re-do all the brake lines - so I'd better be an expert at it by then lol! Cheers again Tony ------ Edit - Just found a pic which explains the original question a bit better. Both these are male flares - one is DIN and one SAE (which is states is now obselete). My kit has inserts to create both these profiles as well the 'inverted' female one:- So it looks like to create a male I just use the DIN die in one operation - but to create the female I use the SAE die and then use the third 'pointed' die to push that down and create the female. I hope that's correct?

Evening all - my new expensive brake flaring tool turned up tonight:- The kit states it will do SAE or DIN Flares and has the dies to suit. I'm assuming I need to use the DIN flare for Sierra fittings and the 3 way valve etc? Cheers Tony

The first kit I bought was this one:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK506-Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Cutting-Tool-Kit-Set-10pc-in-Carry-Case-/141190350861?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20df99c80d#ht_1200wt_1041 I watched all the youtube videos showing how to use these types of kit and read all the guides etc and it seemed pretty straightforward but I had several issues with it tbh. The first was that the de-burring tool was garbage (as they all stated on youtube) - too big and blunt. So used a counterink bit as suggested. The second (and most worrying) was that the the 3/16" insert did not just fit straight into the 3/16" tube even though it was straight and de-burred? I had to virtually force it to get it in. Tried cutting off several test pieces and several different de-burring methods with the same result - I'm assuming it's poor diameter tolerancing on the die. Once the die was forced in, I made sure the pair of clamp bars were flat/parallel and tightened up fully. I attached the press tool above and would set it to the right as that's the way it turns when you tighten (also as shown on the video's) and it clamped down ok. I always checked to make sure the pipe had not slid down in the clamp as suggested. Getting the insert out of the tube was just as hard as getting it in there and I always worried the die would break off inside. Most of the flares were instantly recognisable as garbage and I'm not convinced the ones that did at least look ok would actually seal properly I've now bought this one (as it has the benefit of being easier to flare on the car if required and has good reports):- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330620428606?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3049wt_1041 That's interesting what you said about dipping the tube and die in brake fluid David - never heard of that before tbh.I guess it's acting as a lubricant to help achieve the correct shape? Tbh I mostly just blindly followed the instruction to have the pipe protrude to the end of the wide ledge on the die - but I did try a couple setting the protrusion to exactly 3/16" with the verniers with the same result. I'm hoping the new tool will be infinitely better quality and much easier to use (it should be really considering the price difference) - but will definitely be trying several test pieces until they look right - will probably post them up on here for opinions. Cheers Tony

Exactly what I thought - The cheapest exact same model on Ebay is £79.99 'buy it now' - so thought £32.50 delivered was a proper bargain. It's definitely the exact same master cylinder as the one I'm replacing too - even has the same numbers on that plastic ring tag at first glance. I've got to re-do the whole brake line system on the car now though . The previous builder gave me the 25ft roll of copper line he had bought to do the brakes with and I recently bent all the lines to shape in the chassis. Foolishly though I bought a 'cheapy' £18 Sealey brake flaring kit (despite all the warnings on forum sites and youtube about them). The thing is rubbish and I can't get it to produce a proper shape flare despite many-many attempts and have screwed up most of the bent runs trying to do them now. I even managed to screw up the brass T piece for the rear lines because of it. One of the flares looked 'ok' - so I popped it into the T piece and started to tighten the male insert. The shape must have been wrong though because as it tightened it started to 'squash' the copper to the shape it should have been and sent the insert off at angle which then stripped the soft brass thread So after a John Cleese style tantrum where I angrily 'ripped' all the copper lines out of the car and then started 'thrashing' it with them - I calmed down and did a bit more research. The realisation that your braking system is actually pretty important hit home - I decided to do the job properly. So I've thrown the knackered copper lines away and bought a reel of kunifer (cunifer - however its spelt) as I'm a little concerned that several countries have now banned the use of the 'non alloyed' type copper in brake systems. I suspect the problems they may have seen were more to do with the runs being inadequately supported rather than the material itself - but decided not to risk it either way as its basically the same price. The worse bit was having to shell out £103 this morning though for a proper 'Sykes-pickavant' flaremaster tool to make sure they get done properly when I make attempt number 2 next week lol!

Had a proper result at the weekend. I won this brand new master cylinder off Ebay for £32.50 delivered! I only won it 10am Saturday and it was here when I got home from work tonight lol!

Thanks Peter - Always good to have it confirmed by the manufacturer. I actually got round to knocking up the mounts and bolting it loosely in place this weekend. Looks much better than the big Sierra spring and huge shock, and also a handy 2.5kg weight saving each side

This carb came with a load of parts with the part built 2B I bought. The car had a 1.6 pinto engine fitted (minus carb as you can see in the pics) so I assume this carb is for the 1.6? I don't know if you can identify what it is from the pics but you're welcome to it if it helps? I'll nip out in the morning and see if it has any markings on it if you like? Cheers Tony

Ah ok - nice one cheers. Must admit I'd much prefer a new one rather than risk the same thing again. I'll give them a bell in the morning - Cheers Duck!

Evening all - As in title, finally getting round to trying to connect up the brakes on the heap. The master cylinder I have came from the previous builder and when I came to fit it found it was seized and took a good whack to free it. The pedal is now moving but it seems to be only actuating the rear circuit so I'm sure the cylinder has had it really. I tried to dismantle it as per the haynes manual instructions but mine doesn't seem to have a circlip to remove to get the pistons out. I know its a long shot, but If anybody has a servicable one lying around in the garage I'd be glad to swap for some beer tokens rather than shell out £80'ish on a new one. Cheers Tony

Cheers for the replies chaps. Chris - I had the alloy fuel tank made by Martin Keenan. He has fitted baffle plates inside (presumably for anti-surge purposes) and I asked him to add a swirl pot on the bottom of the tank becasue it was going to be for injection. So the tank has a round pot in the centre on the base and the supply comes from a 10mm barbed hose from the bottom of that. The pump etc are going to be mounted under this swirl pot so should always have a supply of fuel due to the pot and gravity. Does this sound ok now then for the setup? I'll definitely make sure it has a HP filter then too if it is important (wasn't sure if it was a "nice to have" kinda thing). Peter - I bought the engine/gearbox package from Derek Overfield when he upgraded to a Red top so the fuel pump didn't come with it as he obviously needed the pump from the donor still for his car otherwise I would be quite happy to have used it. Great to hear your system works well as it sounds the same as I'm planning. CMA - Cheers for the link to the pump - I had no idea what the ref was for the standard pump so had no idea what to search for. Definitely worth a look especially with the member discount. McRamsay - Many thanks for the Sytec advice. I have budgeted approx £100 for the pump/clamp/filters/hose clips etc so the Sytec stuff its just about within range, I just didn't want to buy it and then find out there stuff was rubbish and breaks down all the time. Cheers all Tony

Having now finally run the go and return fuel lines on the car (using 8mm ID SAE J30 R9 hose rightly or wrongly ) - it's getting near time to try and get hold of a High pressure fuel pump for the 2.0 efi Pinto motor. I just wanted to run what I was planning past you experienced guys and see if looks ok or not please. As the fuel system parts are going to be below the tank, I'm planning to just run hose from the tank swirl pot to one of those cheap standard paper type fliters. Then from the filter I'm planning to hose to something like this :- http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_2069wt_1146 Then from the High Pressure pump, hose up to a High Pressure Fuel filter and then on to the fuel rail. My questions are:- 1) Is 5 Bar working pressure 10 bar max ok for a pump for the efi system? (I have no idea what pressures fuel injection systems usually run at) 2) Are Sytec pumps/filters etc any good or should I avoid? 3) Do I really need a HP fuel filter after the pump or is it just a good idea as a precaution? I know a lot of people run a low pressure pump to another tank and then on to a HP pump etc but that just seems like lots more to go wrong to me. 2 pumps that can fail rather than 1 - lots more joints that can leak etc etc so that's why I want to go the directest route ideally. Any opinions gratefully appreciated. Cheers Tony