alanrichey

Any further news on this ? Do we need to contact the organisers directly or has that already been done ?

I would reply and select the "cannot come" option. I think that means you stay on the database and will get an invite next year.

I think that was because you were the one that took Dave's entry. Try registering now as a new entry, that way you will get on the database for future years. Let me know if you have problems as I also have a spare registration code.

Not you Dave, as I recall we had early notice of yours and we gave it to someone else ? But that raises a valid point that is worth re-iterating. Please read the reply carefully. Dave was one of a couple who were rejected for the run out, and thought that meant the whole thing. But being rejected for the run out does NOT mean you are rejected for the Show. 500 Cars allowed in the Show but only 30 are allowed on the run out.

The 2016 Stamford Car Show will take place on Sunday 28th August this year. Anyone who has attended previously will automatically get an invitation (Mine just arrived) but anyone else will need to visit the website www.stamfordcarshow.co.uk The reason for posting this now is that this show is limited to 500 cars and it fills up FAST. In particular, last year quite a few people could not register for the run out as that fills up within a few weeks. Could I also repeat a plea I made last year, and that is please do not register unless you really intend to go. At least 3 people registered last year and did not turn up, which not only meant that other people could not attend with their cars, but also embarrassed me as the nominated RHOCar coordinator.

Fame at last This months 'Car Mechanics"

Not sure we need the initial meet up. The original idea was we could then park up together in Uppingham and that failed fairly quickly as each parking place could only take a couple of cars so we spread all over the town. Happy to do it though, if that is the concensus. Second RV good scheme.

Thanks for the reminder nikki. Form printed off to send tomorrow.

Application sent for the Saturday

Sorry, forgot to mention the system was primed full of fluid so pump has something to circulate. No way of Topping it up though so RH must have assumed it didn't leak. I have often thought it might be safer if it included some sort of tank though.

Odd. As far as I know the kit was issued out of the RH factory without the bottle and cooler fitted. And there is a simple short length of pipe running from the pump output to the input to form a closed loop. Removing the pump itself its not really an option as the same spindle also drives the water pump.

Thanks to all for the support. Nice to get everyone together again and I think we all had a decent run out, and for some it was the first run of the year. Looked good in the car park too

Good, weather looks as though it will be superb. Too late to book a table, might have to sit outside

OK, Sunday looks as though it might be OK in between rain showers. So let's give it a go, Muskham Ferry (http://www.muskhamferry.co.uk/) ( NG23 6HB) at 12:00 on Sunday 10th Apr. See you there Al

Mine's the same. The default map runs the engine a bit rich and with a working lambda sensor the ECU leans it off between 3% & 6 % Fascinating stuff.

Probably not, and as I have now found out I had been running for 2 years with a broken lambda sensor so the ECU wasn't controlling the fuel/air mixture at all and I was running in Limp-Home Mode it is really academic. But like you with my cooling problem, now I have the extra information available to me I can't bear to leave something not quite right. (Why do they call it Limp-Home Mode when the car actually performs rather better in that mode (apart from the emissions) then under normal conditions?)

More cars coming off their winter hibernation so time to get out more (not me, I have been doing run-outs 2-3 times a week since Xmas and am in danger of exceeding my mileage allowance ) We are actually spoilt for choice this month with the Stilton Cheese Run (http://stiltoncheeserun.webs.com/), and HorsePower at the Hall (https://www.facebook.com/horsepoweratthehall) Unfortunately they are both happening on the same day, Sunday April 24th. Personally I will be on the Stilton Cheese Run. So I will watch the weather for the 9th/10th and 16th/17th and if either/both are good we will meet up somewhere. Be nice to go in middle of the county again so we have our old favourite the Muskham Ferry. But if anyone fancies anywhere different let me know. Watch this space. Al

Good point, although to be honest, as long as it doesn't boil over, I am not all that bothered about the absolute temperature value of the engine.. My initial concern over the the cool running was that all the things the ECU controls that use temperature as a parameter (fuel/air mix, ignition timing, idle speed.....) would not be working correctly because the engine was not running within the optimal 80C-100C band. So in made more sense to use the temperature used by ECU as the guide, regardless of it's accuracy and do something to get that value into the optimal band.

Careful, it's not a 'K' it's a 'T', and it uses the standard cooling method, not the peculiar one used by the 'K' so don't get confused by that. I agree, So far no-one has explained that RHE mod to me. Eh ? Jumping the gun a bit here That was the test Jim recommended, and I have yet to carry it out. At this stage we don't actually know the stat is being bypassed,. And even then I would have thought that would affect the warm up time, not the final stabilsing temperature ? If you require a coolant flow of X through the radiator to keep the engine at a constant temperature I see little difference between a water flow of X through a full opened thermostat and a collant flow of 90% of X through a partially opened thermostat and 10% of X via other means. Same overall effect . Sorry, I'm not really interested in redesigning at this stage, although I am happy to try temporarily blanking of lines for testing. As I said in my last post this has moved from a problem (which it was at the beginning of the thread and has now been fixed) to an intellectual discussion on the workings of the system. You misunderstand, I am now totally content with the new design. Car is running absolutely perfectly for the first time in months. I think my next redesign will be to make the grill blanking plate adjustable so I can then adjust the running temperature to the EXACT value I want. Maybe just up it from 88C to 90C. Show me another car where you can do that

Makes sense, although actually I don't regard it as an issue any more as the car is behaving perfectly. It's now moved from being a problem to an intellectual exercise in thermodynamics.

You would think so, but with a 20psi cap it seems to work OK. Probably just pretends to be a sealed system instead

Shouldn't really get involved in this with all my problems but with the Superspec design, that uses the same principle, you have to fill the expansion bottle to within 1" of the top to ensure the top hose and radiator are full.

Can't give an instant answer, and having spent so much time analysing my ECU I am probably biased But what I have found is that for the first couple of minutes the engine is run on default settings. Once it starts to warm up the lambda (O2) sensor starts to work and the ECU then switches to a different mode whereby the fuel/air mix is actively controlled based on the default setting and the lambda sensor output. Unfortunately if the sensor isn't working the ECU should just drop back to the default settings and should not stop the engine from running. And I am assuming you have a lambda sensor fitted ?

Hi Jim Not really. I think my previous overheating problems were actually caused by a leak of the coolant under pressure from a dodgy connection. And as the water level dropped, that caused the temperature to rise and the pressure to rise, and at 13psi she started dumping water overboard and the situation just ran out of control. And it was during this period I removed the thermostat to try and cure the problem. It then came to a head when I fitted the 20psi cap and in that case instead of the water being dumped overboard the pressure just kept increasing and it blew the dodgy joint apart (In the middle of the A6 ). So I fixed the joint, and that was when she started to run very cool (stabilising at 62C). I assumed that was because of the lack of a thermostat so put an 82C one in and she then stabilised in the low 70s. So moved to a 87C stat and then she stabilised in the high 70s. So I think we can safely ignore all the previous problems as a red herring, and assume that I now have a cooling system working as it was originally designed to run (Whether that is a correct design or not) and start from that point. I should also clarify that I am not using the in-car temperature gauge for this work I am analysing the output of the ECU as it is much more accurate. And as a precaution I have already changed the ECU temperature sensor with a spare one, and they both read identical values. So I think we can safely assume the temperatures I am seeing are genuine. But I do take the point about water going into the top radiator when it shouldn't, so unless someone can explain to me why those extra pipes are there I will try temporarily blocking them off. And thanks for the offer to chat but first I will run all those test you suggested to make sure everything is opening/shutting/warming up as it should. Might even treat myself to an infra-red measuring gun That way we may be able to eliminate other things. But at the end of the day I am still waiting for someone to point out the flaw in my logic that says that having fixed everything I now have a very efficient cooling system and that at 78C with the thermostat partially open I fulfill the equation: Heat dissipated by radiator = Heat created by engine. so she just doesn't get any hotter. And the only way get her to run hotter is to reduce the left hand side of the equation by blocking off part of the radiator. Al