alanrichey

Google doesn't return anything on 'Rover T20', but 'Rover T16' looks like the one Superspecs have Rover T-Series engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia I suspect the '16' refers to the number of valves, not the capacity.

No idea I'm afraid. My Superspec came with a radiator with no pressure cap so I am not sure what would happen. Sorry

Assuming your system is the same as mine, we have the pressure cap on the bottle rather than on the radiator. So to get rid of the bottle you would have fit a new radiator that has a cap.

Be interested in all the details when you finish, as I think the 420 ECU is pretty unobtainable now or even if you get one no-one knows how to disable the immobiliser, so to know how to replace it with the Emerald is a useful backup.

Ford Transit I think although not 100% sure.

My Superspec has always done this. I eventually figured out that I was actually overfilling it, so that when the engine was hot the expansion bottle filled and then overflowed. Once I stopped filling it up all the time, and it found it's own level it was fine.

In my case I have the deflectors as a permanent fit, and then just slot the doors on if it starts to rain. Works for me

Are you sure you need hinges ? Surely the side deflectors should be fixed ? I fashioned some stainless steel brackets that bolted onto the existing door hinges.

You will be VERY lucky. My Superspec had a leaking sump when I bought it, for the same reason, the previous owner had grounded it. Every breaker's yard I went to burst out laughing when I mentioned the Rover 'T'., said they hadn't seen one for years. I searched on E-Bay, the Rover forum and everywhere I could think of with no luck. You might have to finish up buying an old Rover 420 just for the sump. But be VERY careful, as you want the alloy sump, otherwise you will have zero ground clearance, and you have to make sure it is from the non-turbo engine and also not from the diesel version, the sumps are all different. I finished up getting mine welded and although it still leaks, it isn't anything a piece of cardboard and a towel on the garage floor can't cope with You may have joined too late to see the article I wrote in 'Boys in Hoods' about the foibles of the Superspec, one of which was the ridiculously low ground clearance. After I had mine welded I wound up the front suspension about an 1" and fitted a sump guard from some scrap stainless steel. See http://the-superspec...ustment_10.html and http://the-superspec...sump-guard.html Since then I have had no problem at all. Al

Cracking stuff. For some reason I had not seen that on my research, explains a lot. Although I have to say I did fit a spring to the end of the fork and it didn't really have much effect. But pleased to hear it probably isn't fatal Did you ever produce the Word doc ? if so I would love a copy in case I ever have to take the engine out for any reason.

Chris Sorry, just realised you only joined recently so will not have seen the magazine. My apologies. I will PM you a copy of the article. You might also find it useful to check out my blog (in the signature) that covers 2 years experience with a Superspec. Cheers Al

Normally I would offer to measure mine, but on extended vacation away from the car at the moment. But there must be another Superspec owner reading this who can do it for you ?

I guess you haven't read my article on the Superspec 'foibles' in "Boys in Hood" Most Superspecs suffer from this to some degree. As far as I am aware the reason is that Richard Stewart had to hand manufacture a brass 'thingy' to help mate the Rover engine with the MT75 box, and his tolerances were a bit iffy. I think the only solution is to machine a new one with tighter tolerances. That will need the engine/gearbox out (although to be more accurate the rest of the car 'up'). Personally I am living with it until it fails completely. So far 11,000 miles sounding like a bucket of bolts but still going strong. I should add I am not aware of any Superspec owner having it fail. Although I await to be corrected. And I think most owners who cured it did it by changing the engine.

That's because I'm not there

I'll be thinking of you, enjoy

Have a good one Dan, I still owe you for introducing me to RHOCar.

Good spot. And it's only about 12 miles from me. Unfortunately I'm temporarily 3000 miles away. I'll put it in the diary for next year. I'll notify the other Lincs members though. Thanks

I will still be out of the country and can't attend but for those in need of a meet, don't forget "HorsePower at the Hall" - Doddington Hall, near Lincoln. Sunday July 12th at 14:00 For some reason they have moved from Saturday mornings (09:00-12:00) to Sunday afternoons (14:00-17:00), maybe they were sick of the weather always being poor on Saturdays I quite liked having the morning session and then a pub lunch but I guess we can have a pub lunch and then go to the meet. At least I won't have to get up at 07:30 now !! If anyone wants to go as a Group, let me know on here and I will make the arrangements. And if any other Lincolnshire member wants to arrange something as well.......

Just a slight caveat to that. He may have insured it as a Robin Hood but that doesn't mean the V5 is correct.

Matthew, are you still running the original Rover engine ? I had a dim memory that you had swapped it out ? If you do still have the Rover engine then rest assured most of the Superspecs have always suffered this problem. It has been discussed often on the forum with the following suggestions: 1. Poor earth from block to chassis. (I added an extra strap, had no effect) 2. ECU has advance set to far with hot engine making it difficult to crank (Can't comment, ECU on Rover a black art) 3. Engine naturally tightens up when hot and RH-supplied starter not man enough (Makes sense) 4. The position of the starter motor, hidden behind engine with no air flow, causes it to get excessively hot and the windings start to break down and not crank it with enough power (That is my preferred solution) So far I have been lucky, and although, like you, it only just about turns over, it has always fired up. Al

I've been trying to get a replacement sump for 2 years without success. I had mine welded and it has reduced the leak to about a teaspoonful a week. I can live with that