johnlrichardson
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Everything posted by johnlrichardson
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CYLINDER HEAD CAST MARKINGS 1.6 (LSD/LSE)--------62/64 1.8 (REB/RED)--------20/85 2.0 (NRB/N4A)--------20/0 no idear what the numbers mean HTH jon
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If you use any 1600cc-2000cc Sierra donor most of the parts will be used in the build. Probably the 2000cc engine would be the better but you can always upgrade later HTH jon
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Try knocking off the adjustment on the rear brakes and bleed again then adjust the brakes up HTH jon
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Check where the holes are for holding it on (too types). one has holes straight up and down the other has holes at10 past and 20 to. HTH jon
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The towing vehicle must be insured to cover the towed vehicle most cars are covered for this Im sure no tax is required HTH jon
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You can get blind rivets that blank off the hole. They were used to hold VIN plates on, so the police could tell at a glance if it had been removed and refitted. Some body shop suppliers may get them, as they may be used in other applications. HTH JON
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If the pistons push back easily.Im sure it will be ok jon
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Think the bolts may be high tensile !! not sure jon
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I may be wrong but shouldn't the acetylene be turned off first jon
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You can use ali or s/s sheet onto the tube and cut to the right hight and cover with rubber door seal But will cause probs with the hight of the dash HTH jon
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check the nuts are not bottoming before it tightens the flare To anneal copper, get it cherry red and quench in cold water HTH jon
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Any rubber pipe as long as its a tight fit HTH jon
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Wont fit a sierra or cortina hub needs to be tapered with thread and lock nut jon
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What have you ordered jon
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You need something easy to replace if it snaps use the block and a cable tie HTH jon
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Could be the oil pressure relief valve stuck (not sure where on a crossflow) try with the old filter if you can If your getting foaming something is causing air and oil to mix Ill give it a bit more thought!! jon
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Has this just started since the head was off or since the oil was changed did you change the filter jon
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Looks like the rear axle crossmember needs adjusting and realign the back bolt on the diff As agent zed said you need to find 2 fixed points nearer the front and the length to the holes where the big rubbers go into the crossmember they should be the same length HTH jon
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Try bleeding from the farthest away first working to the nearest to the m/cyl If its still spongy try using it for a day or 2 sometimes it gets better HTH jon
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Some columns went between the clutch and the brake pedals If not can you alter the brake pedal to make it fit by bending or cutting and welding HTH jon
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Hi Spencer After removing it put a bleed nipple in its place it might save you draining the system and having to bleed it again HTH jon
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Its not uncommon if the D/shaft is removed or disengaged to disturb something in the G/box causing the box to blow. If it's not been out, could a clip or cir-clip have come off the CV joint? HTH jon
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With some Fords if you remove the driveshafts from the diff a dummy shaft should be fitted in to stop something moving in the diff (So I have been told) Will try and find out more jon
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Try using with the thermostat removed If its not spewing water out the gauge could be reading wrong HTH jon
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Chris tight at first but they will be ok Check at 500ml to put your mind at rest jon