Dean Roberts

+1 Dewalt.... Look out for daily deals on http://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/power-tools/cat830692 Also if you register with them and subscribe to there emails, you sometimes get vouchers and extra deals. I was offered £10 of any purchase over £75 recently. Worth looking out for weekly or daily deals on toolstation and screwfix if your not in a hurry. OR look here and check out the comments: http://www.hotukdeals.com/search?action=search&keywords=drill

I eventually got home around 23:30 after enjoying the cheerful banter with some of the guys I haven't seen since last year Still good to hear the growl of an angry GBS zero flying off the car park at around 22:30......Andi A big thumbs up for Dean's Vinyl wrap.....very nice. Oh, forgot to mention - Keith, my wife thinks you're a great tosser (something to do with pancakes)

Seeya later

Seeya there

cheers guys....lots of options, instead of cursing

Gotta make the old girl look pretty

Cheers might just stick with the tried and tested Ford pre moulded ones and just cut to size to fit radiator. The fancy silicone ones I have are good quality but just won't do the 180 degree bends required without a kink.

Any hints tips on how to stop the bloody pipes from getting kinks in?

Excellent....nice one Chris & Dan. The next Lewis Hamilton maybe

Finally got the gasket set yesterday (don't ask....postal problems???) Drilled and fitted the thermostat and now replacing the hoses and wondered.... On top of the housing was a small expansion tank hose and was originally piped into the inlet manifold hose and seemed a bit pointless. Can this be capped off? I have seen other housings on sierra engines without this. Was it originally used for just bleeding air back into the expansion tank? Ideas, greatly appreciated. Cheers Dino

Ian, you make it sound simple Take into consideration, I haven't even looked at this yet (on the things to do, after wife's permission list). I gather I just purchase the long rod above. Drain brake fluid (as it's old, crap and boiled last year). Disconnect the copper brake lines. Remove m/c and servo from bulk head. Connect rod to pedal and thru bulkhead into sierra m/c bypassing the old servo. Bolt it all together on bulkhead. Re-attached/cut and re-flare new copper pipes in new position. Fill with new brake fluid (any recommendations)? Bleed brakes and get wife to test drive.

Chris, what's the V6 cossy out of?

http://auta5p.eu/lang/en/katalog/auto.php?idf=Robin-Hood-Seven-7-Cosworth-2.5-12806 Very pretty looking and lots of bling...thought U would appreciate it.

U guys crack me up & make me laugh on a stressful day at work! Thank you.

Chris, will a video be any good? Or the crème de la crème: http://auta5p.eu/lan...worth-2.5-12806

Not able to warm the engine bay yet, as I have stripped out exhaust & manifold, carbs, cooling system and stripped down the engine to its bare minimum I'm attempting to make a shield to deflect all the unwanted heat downwards away from the servo and piping, but seem to have small stumbling block which it the existing copper piping looped 2cm's to deep into the area I want to fit the shield. To save time and any headaches, I was hoping I could gently warm it up, place another steel pipe against it and gently ease it 45 degrees upwards without the brittle curve being kinked or worse - broken. I could do without replacing any broken lines at the moment as I have a lot of other things to do b4 the MOT April and the money could be wisely used on more bling.

Looking forward to the next instalment Very inspiring work and makes me want to start saving for a v6 or v8 conversion

Silly question, but - I would like to bend them into a better position above the exhaust manifold where they exit the brake servo. Will they break and screw-up my day if I attempt to lever them upwards, so as I can fit a heat shield. Is there an easy way of moving/bending them or do I have to renew them? Any advice appreciated, unless it's Chris telling me to get rid of servo

Interesting....that car was up for sale last year when I was looking and then disappeared. Maybe this might help for tips: http://www.rhocar.or...showtopic=34087 Bargain Cossy engine if anybody interested: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COSWORTH-YB-DIVISION-1-RALLYCROSS-ENGINE-/271540018048

Won't updating to disks on the rear make the car heavier...Or is it just a cosmetic thing?

Ho the hell did they gear that engine and gearbox into such a small space?

I better get my finger out this weekend then and get them into place before you and the better half crucify me

Thanks Peter, cannot confirm any of this information yet, as I haven't fitted them to the car. Just wanted to make sure I got most issues out of the way before fitting them. Luckily I have a fuel regulator which I will set at around 2-3 and this should control the pressure issues. If it's not the joint being air tight, then I was wondering about the silicone being porous and needs replacing. Dirt in the valves - suppose a good carb cleaning, repair and rebuild exercise should be necessary before fitting them.

Chris, this is where I believe the carbs are leaking: Could it be that it is just surplus fuel in the bowls and that these have been siting in a box for a few months at the wrong angle? Or should I look into replacing the silicone pipes? Also I believe that are Keihin carbs from a fireblade, but have no history or info on them and wondered if we have any experts out there that might be able to shed some light on what repair kit I might need? I noticed these on ebay and don't know if it's what I require: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBR-900-RRW-Fireblade-SC33-918cc-1998-Carb-Repair-Kit-/140754990733?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item20c5a6b68d Any advice would be great. Cheers Dino

Chris, I may have the same problem with my bike carbs. Is it worth stripping them down and checking them out before fitting this weekend? I will try to upload a picture, but I think it's where the 40mm silicone hose joins the manifold to the carb's. Perhaps there are not lined properly and not fuel resistant? any ideas?