nelmo
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Posts posted by nelmo
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Get the wheel alignment done - I had zero re-centering before I had mine done and only just squeezed through IVA due to a very kind tester. Not dangerous really, just ruins your tyres quicker.
Unfortunately, most normal alignment places won't be able to do a kit because their equipment won't fit under the wheelarches. I had a mate with one of those home laser alignment tools - did mine in a pub car park one evening
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9 hours ago, HAWKNORTH said:
Re Nelmo's comment above on engine emissions for MOT purposes. You have the advantage of a Q plate which means the emissions test is a visual only. As long a it's not smoking excessively you will be ok.
Yes, I did think that was possible but I wasn't sure...
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No, if the V5 looks OK, no need for an IVA (SVA is the old system that IVA replaced). Only needs a new IVA if you change the chassis/body in some way - changing the engine is fine but you need to tell the DVLA because it may affect what emissions you need to be tested for at MOT time.
Engine number is irrelevant these days - mine is blank because my engine was brand new from the warehouse and they don't stamp codes on them until they get to the factory.
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Darn, booked up that weekend, looks fun...
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Where are you, Paul? I'm in Reigate...
I'm the area sec for the SE but it's been hard to get anyone out - we had a couple of meets last year but even then, I was the only one with a working kit
. The weather is improving, so I'll try arrange something soon...
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15 hours ago, Alexandre Fonseca said:
I contacted GBC and they are full...
Are you sure you called the right place - not GBS, GBC:
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Why on earth would you do that? Most people convert TO FI, not the other way round
Sounds to me like you're not running on all cylinders ( I mean the engine but I'm not sure about you either
). Check you're getting a spark to all cylinders? And carb setup but I know nothing about carbs...
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Do you know roughly what needs doing? Could it be driven to an IVA test?
Might be worth taking it, failing but getting a list of fail points so you can show it to someone and they can quote you to fix it. An IVA retest is only £95.
Richy on here runs a garage called GBC (?) Autos in Tadworth. Give him a list and he should be able to give you a quote.
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A seal will only work well if both mating surfaces are flat and smooth - I'm guessing yours aren't? Probably why there is sealant there from before? Not sure if you can get petrol resistant sealant but that seems to be the way forward?
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I got mine done at this place:
....when John Lamsley worked there (ex-Emerald employee) but I'm not sure if he still works there (he's not listed on the website). John has a FB group called 'Emerald ECU tuning tips and advice' - you can ask him on there where he works?
EDIT: ah sorry, just realised you said 'Herefordshire' - I read it as 'Hertfordshire'
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16 hours ago, Mr. Squire said:
Do you suspect my oil pressure is a tad on the high side?
I have no experience of Pinto engines, I'm afraid. My Zetec starts off very high when cold (700+ kPa) and then settles to around 3-400 when up to temp, which I believe is normal for a Zetec...
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Looks very good - my blacktop Zetec is like that at idle and I always thought the Pinto's were supposed to be lower?
9 hours ago, Mr. Squire said:Everyone happy with 6 nations result?
As an England fan, damn right - I was worried about the wooden spoon for us before the start. Beating Ireland was miraculous! Really good competition this year - so many unexpected results (except for Ireland, of course)...looking forward to the Autumn Internationals because I'd imagine we'll get hammered by the SH teams
- but need to play those games to improve...
I'd be interested to know what you guys thought of the 6N - some of the Welsh play, for example, was downright embarrasing last weekend
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Pull the HT leads one at a time - if the knocking stops, you know its the engine and which cylinder.
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Ha! Shows me to be wrong again - there was a quick fix
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I'm afraid this is all electrics and almost every kit car is unique in that respect. You need to get a multimeter out and test the wiring from switch to motor, test the action of the switch with the multimeter etc. Sadly, there are rarely quick fixes when it comes to electrics....
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That's very kind of you - you could make a bit of cash on that engine alone.
I'd put it on ebay as an auction starting at £50... anything you get is a bonus and much bigger audience than here.
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@richyb66 can knock one of those up in no time
Crazy Scandinavians...too many long winter nights...
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On 2/25/2024 at 7:13 PM, Mr. Squire said:
Greeting from New Zealand!
First time poster, long time listener.
i have a MK2 escort which i think about time has a Oil Pressure gauge for the mighty Pinto,
Which would be easiest to install? Mech or Electric?
Thanks in advice time
Great looking car you have there - cool colour...
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On 2/18/2024 at 9:59 AM, richyb66 said:
It won't be a 5 minute job to swap.
Yeah, with your ramp and garage of tools, maybe...
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I've got a Honda NC700 that I used to commute on but since covid, it's hardly been used, sadly. Mainly, this is because of the Zero taking over my fun trips out.
I've recently bought a 2005 Porsche Boxster and I can't afford to keep it and the Zero, so one is going in the next few months
. I'm having a nightmare trying to decide which one....
Skoda Kodiaq is the daily car, needed for the caravan, although we're thinking of selling that as well as we just don't use it enough.
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Nice - what the heck is that thing on the right of your pic - someone in the club? Is that a Grinnell or something - looks cool. Although missing a front number plate
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21 hours ago, Foz said:
it should then always give you an accurate speed reading
I've got a GPS speedo and it is FAR more accurate than my manual one ever was
. The OP may be able to buy a standalone GPS receiver and connect it to the dial?
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Hi and welcome to the club!
I agree, I doubt the over-heating issue is the rad (unless it's leaking or got lots of broken fins) and even if it is, you may not be able to fit bigger-core rad in. However, thats about all the help I can give you - I don't have a Pinto and over-heating is one of the few issues (touch wood) I've never had.
Make sure you do a search in the forum because I know both of your issues have come up before and there have been lots of suggested solutions which could help you.
Good luck!
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Yes, definitely sounds like something related to your recent changes. The ECU needs a minimum voltage to work (11V or something like that?) - maybe your system is now sometimes providing less and the ECU is literally shutting down then switching on continually?
In the Emerald software, there is a datalogger function - connect a PC up, start the software and drive the car, monitoring the various options - look for obvious spikes or see if you just keep losing the connection as the ECU turns off?
I had a misfire issue and it was the wiring to my TPS but I worked it out from the datalogger - details in my blog post about it here.
Stilton Cheese Run 2024
in Events
Posted
Nice one - I haven't done that run for a couple of years now but I remember that Alfa Montreal - he still has those horrendous, modern black wheels on it!